Monthly Archives: June 2016

Gloucester Here We Come

Saturday morning dawned bright and gloomy, and we set off, starting with locking down through Avon Lock onto the Avon link, then a left turn onto the River Severn proper. Very shortly we came to Upper Lode Lock, below which the river is sometimes tidal (at high Spring Tides), and hence bad news for little boats. There was to be a Spring Tide on the Sunday  morning, so we really needed to get tucked up in Gloucester before then.

Upper Lode Lock is ENORMOUS. Safely descended, the far gates were opened, and Song & Dance was fully up to deep river cruising speed before we even reached them. And there’s also a wide pool at that end fully big enough to wind/turn a 58ft narrowboat round or moor a flotilla of sailing yachts.

Just down the Severn from Upper Lode, you come across the premises of the Avon Sailing Club, but that’s all right as the Severn Sailing Club is situated near Bredon, about 6 miles up the Avon from Tewkesbury. Must be something in the water.

Making good time we stopped at The Boat Inn at Ashleworth for lunch and a short wander. Although the village itself is a way off, just behind the pub is a fine collection of 15C buildings huddled together: a manor house, church and tithe barn.

AshleworthAshleworth Tithe Barn

Ashleworth Tithe BarnAshleworth Tithe Barn

This barn is still seemingly used for storing useful things like dead sinks, but at least there was little in the way of guano underfoot. More impressive were the giant “half doors”. Don’t know about lifting one off so you can clog dance – these are big enough to hold a small ceilidh on! An instant hernia at the mere thought.

Ashleworth ChurchAshleworth StyleAshleworth Church

The church had an unusual – but probably not 15C – stile, and their bell ropes matched the chief cook’s fancy mooring warps, so if we need some more we know where to come.

Old Spots

And just around the corner were some Gloucestershire Old Spots – an early inspiration for several other Morris sides and the Morris movement in general – one even looks suspiciously like Ken Langsbury…

During the pub lunch break, the Captain had braved the open weave pontoons for a good rummage around in the bankside weeds and woods. Needing to get going, and after watching him seemingly sitting quietly in a chunk of long grass for some while with no sign of wishing to go boating again, the navigator picked him up as per normal. Only to find him in mid wee. After a wash, and a clean shirt, we set off with a very grumpy Skipper muttering to himself.

We’d been warned about the approach into Gloucester Lock, which takes you up from the River Severn into Gloucester Docks: it was as interesting as promised, and we were glad of the detailed briefing; even gladder there wasn’t actually much flow on the Severn that afternoon, or it could have easily become exciting – something we try and avoid.

With us as the only occupants, the lockkeeper filled the large lock very slowly, and before we’d made it all the way up to the busy bedlam that is Gloucester Docks on a sunny weekend afternoon, our friends Moira, Graham and family were peering over the edge and forming a welcoming party. We’d seen them all several times in passing last weekend at Chippenham, but never got a chance to chat, so tea and buns at the narrowboat cafe rapidly ensued.

All in all, we’ve had worse days, even if the Captain was still sulking, and The Guv’nor was nowhere in sight.

Bredon At Last-Take 2: Optical Illusions and Guano

A sunny Friday morning – and as the car needed taking home – the Captain allowed us to use it to drive the 3 miles or so to Bredon, to see what we’d missed when passing by boat a week or so ago.

Singing Kettle, Tewkesbury MarinaWalking from our mooring by the lock back to the marina to collect the car, we discovered what had happened to our chums Cilla and Artie’s now retired/redundant collection of tea making equipment – they’ve turned it into a narrowboat. Unless they’re starting a new, small scale, floating show, like the Mikron Theatre lot, who we haven’t seen anything of this season so far.

Bredon turned out to be a very pretty, and pretty much unspoilt, village with an interesting parish church, an old pub that does food, and a National Trust Tithe Barn so famous they don’t even bother to list it in their membership book. Unfortunately the village is disturbingly close to the M5.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The church’s steeple is visible from far and wide, but the first surprise is the flooring. Fancy knotwork heating grids, and optical illusion tiling isn’t the usual parish church fare.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The totally OTT marble tomb seemed out of place, but the stained glass was lovely.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Just down from the churchyard was a fine tithe barn, for storing the local “taxes”: these days it’s seemingly mainly used as an enormous dovecot. We wonder if they harvest the significant quantities of guano flooring.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Walking back, the cook noticed this lovely – if somewhat out of character – cottage and gardens, and decided that it would be nice place to retire to…

Bredon Cottage

After lunch at the pub, the cook was dropped back at the boat, and the car returned to home.

Memo to self 1: don’t try driving from Tewkesbury down the M5/M4 and returning via an Oxford bound train on a Friday afternoon at the end of half-term holidays.

Memo to self 2: don’t believe the bus timetables and signs for the Ashchurch for Tewkesbury to Tewkesbury “rail link” (sic). It’s complete figment of someone’s imagination.

Still, we hope the weather holds: it’s time to go boating again.

An Abbey a Day…

Making a mental note to check why the River Avon has so many abbeys close together (Evesham, Pershore, Tewkesbury): an Abbey a Day keeps something at bay. And whether you’re deeply religious, an atheist, or a even a committed Pastafarian, there’s  something undeniably awe inspiring about these old religious sites and buildings from Stonehenge and Callanish onwards, and the faith of the people who built them without the aid of modern day cranes and cherry pickers.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey fledgeling

Well surrounded, it’s not altogether easy to get a decent outside shot of the Abbey, although the fledgling blackbird (taken from the same spot) clearly had an unusual “bird’s eye view”.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

The vaulted and decorated ceilings are quite astonishing, as is the stained glass.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey: Running Repairs

And the almost filigree stone work on some of the tombs and side chapels does make you wonder, even if it clearly needs a lot of attention. The one on the left is apparently the grave of Edward II (the king, not the folk/reggae/rock band that our mate Simon played in).

Tewkesbury and the Two-Hanky Poppadum

We were rather taken with Tewkesbury, and on our return from Chippenham/home had resolved to explore further and visit the Abbey. There seem to be lot of Abbeys on the Avon for some reason.

Anyway after driving back with a car load of clean clothes, and with the Captain safely reinstalled in his Captain’s chair on the boat, we set off for a quick curry. Most curry houses these days have “Chef’s Specials” or “House Recommendations” above and beyond the bog-standard standard CTM/Biryani/Bhuna/Madras/whatever concoctions, and if one goes off-piste on the menu, one occasionally comes across a dish rather hotter (or sometimes less hot) than expected. We can safely say that at Panache we came across our first two-hanky poppadum.  Ordering the standard “two plain, two spicy” to nibble while we cogitated, halfway through the first spicy one we were already wondering if we had enough napery to make it through to dinner proper. The food was indeed excellent and memorable.

But enough of runny noses: some pictures of a wander around Tewkesbury in some pleasant warm sunshine on the Thursday morning…

Tewkesbury DoorwayTewkesburyTewkesbury Doorway

Some doorways and cottages on main street.

Old Baptist Chapel CourtOld Baptist Chapel CourtOld Baptist Chapel Graveyard

This ginnel led to an Old Baptist Chapel complete with graveyard looking out over the Ham lands, lying between the River Avon and the River Severn…

Graveyard CatOld Baptist Chapel Court

… and it came complete with a snoozing Old Baptist Chapel Court Cat.

Sluice Cottages, TewkesburySluice Cottages, Tewkesbury

The Ham, TewkesburyThe Ham, Tewkesbury

These cottages at the “end” of the Avon navigation – where a big sluice drops the water down to the Severn level – have a lovely view of the Ham, definitely the largest wild-flower meadow we’ve seen this trip!

Fran and Tewkesbury CatTewkesbury

Tewkesbury

Some more old buildings (and another cat) – and we haven’t even been round the Abbey yet.