Category Archives: General

Aylesbury Afternoon

Odd sort of place, Aylesbury. Town centre crammed inside a smallish inner ring road, brave new world (from the same people that brought you Woking?) outside. Inside (if you can get across the road from the basin) mainly a very mixed and busy area, seemingly genuinely multicultural, if perhaps a little down-at-heel. But then they named a street after the first mate, so who’s complaining.

No commentAylesbury Waterside Theatre

Still, someone was having a nice day for their nuptials, even if we were somewhat disturbed by the shiny new sign next door over the road from the concrete City Hall. That’s “traditional” in the “shiny new marketing wheeze” sense, we presume.

Wedding CarTraditional Pub

In complete contrast, up in the the hill, around the church with its large and higgledy-piggledy graveyard, there’s a delightful old town residential area full of nice old buildings and quiet streets. A different world.

St. Mary's Church AylesburySt. Mary's Church AylesburySt. Mary's Church Aylesbury

AylesburyAylesbury

AylesburyAylesbury

And doubtless there’s something deeply meaningful about the sign on this house, but it temporarily escapes us. (Rumour has it that clicking on the picture will reveal all).

Beware...

Aylesbury Duck Sandwich

Escaping from the Wendover Arm in the Friday morning sunshine, it was back to the descent off the Chilterns from Bulborne Junction through Marsworth Locks.

Bulborne JunctionMarsworth Locks

With traffic coming up to set the locks for us, and an energetic volunteer, we soon made short work of seven wide Marsworth locks, which brought us to the start of the Aylesbury Arm. The Captain wished to investigate Aylesbury Ducks, so it was another diversion… 16 narrow locks (some also called Marsworth Locks, just to confuse) descending through pleasantly remote countryside into Aylesbury Basin. Starting with a two chamber staircase surrounded by a new posh housing development, the first narrow locks for months came as a bit of a surprise.

Aylesbury Arm Staircase Lock

We did 13 of the little perishers before calling it a day (20 locks in a day is quite enough), leaving just three to take us into Aylesbury Basin the next morning, which is now being “developed”. The basin used to be Aylesbury Boat Club, but as part of the Waitrose/Travel Lodge/new University buildings project, the developers built the club a nice new marina and club house just outside the town, so the basin itself is a bit quiet, boat wise.

Aylesbury Basin

And the only thing special we could find about Aylesbury Ducks were that some come already pre-packed into sandwiches.

Duck with packed lunch

Tring Tring and the R Word

The Tring summit pound is only three miles long, and most of it is in a steep wooded cutting (cue a pathetic excuse for one of the cook’s favourite bits of music – heavens don’t they look so young).

So not much to see, but after lunch, when the rain stopped, the interrupt free section was most welcome, and we spotted a Little Egret flying overhead above the cutting, up the canal. We’d decided to head down the Wendover Arm, off the main line – it’s currently being resurrected all the way to Wendover, and the end of the first section looked to be in pleasant countryside, close to the several reservoirs around Tring needed to supply all the water flowing downhill off the summit to Brentford, Milton Keynes, Wendover and Aylesbury.

Bulbourne JunctionBulbourne Junction

The sun came out as we approached Bulborne Junction, where the Wendover Arm turns off, and the main line starts its long descent. Just before, one of the old canalside buildings seemed to have been taken over by a metalwork sculpture emporium.

Bulbourne JunctionBulbourne Junction

The turn onto the Wendover Arm just by Marsworth Top Lock is interestingly tricky and a bit tight for a longish boat. (Crunch).

Intrepid SteererEnd of the Water

There’s quite a flow on the arm as it’s a feeder for the main line, and a lot of water is pumped up from the reservoirs not far from the current end of the navigable section. Also, the cut is narrow, with some tight bends, and poorly positioned moored boats. Add to that the distractions of warm sunshine, pleasant open scenery, hundreds of damselflies and dragonflies buzzing and zooming around, and a common tern following the boat doing gannet impersonations just behind us, and it was an interesting steering challenge, but we made it to the end. Where there was indeed a most pleasantly rural spot to moor up (and after a quick exploratory foray up the path to check out the facilities) take a well earned break.

Biggles returns for teaCrew tea break

The starboard side of the boat hadn’t been so perfectly positioned since we started out, and was in desperate need of wash and brush up, so next morning – unable to find any willing gang of Eastern Europeans with a pressure wash in the adjacent field – a start was made before the sun became too hot. And although it really looks nice when it’s done, there really is an awful lot of boat paintwork to wash and polish just on one side, let alone the front, back and other side. There’s no way you could do the whole boat in one day, so somewhere’s always dirty!

Wendover Winding HoleWalking to Wilstone

With the promise of a farm shop (for her) and café (for him) at the far end, a post lunch walk over the hill  – the pretty way – to Wilstone Reservoir seemed necessary, even though it was getting pretty hot again. We were moored up just by the winding hole: you can just make out the boat in the picture above.

Unwatered SectionUnwatered Section

The route took us back over the unwatered section of the canal currently under restoration. Apparently that section was always leaky from day one, and the main challenge is making it watertight for the first time.

Wilstone Reservoir

Wilstone Reservoir looked very low, and while we were waiting a CaRT chap turned up in a van with a clipboard taking measurements, and a long chat ensued. With no significant rain since Easter they were getting decidedly twitchy, on two fronts. Apart from the obvious lack of water, they were beginning to worry about blue green algae. The reservoir had numerous hay bales dumped in it, which is supposed to help prevent it, but the jury’s out on how effective that is. And if the algae starts up, CaRT can’t pump water from the reservoir into the canal system, even if there’s any water to pump. And we’ve just seen that Daventry Reservoir has a suspected outbreak.

So there’s beginning to be mutterings about the “R” word: restrictions (on navigation). Wouldn’t be surprised – let’s hope they’re not too onerous.

Anyway, we saw some more Little Egrets on the island, and we made it to the farm/tea shop before they closed, so that’s all right. And there was a pleasant wild flower meadow to wander round as well. On the return journey we bumped into a bird photographer that had travelled out for the day all the way from East London to the Tring Reservoirs despite rail and tube strikes, so this is clearly a popular spot. He’d failed to get any decent pictures of a tern, so perhaps our pathetic attempt isn’t too bad.

Tern & Swan

Berkhamstead Port and Croissants

A late start, SWMBO’s knee still a bit iffy, and nine wide locks out of Apsley and we’d had enough, mooring up as far as practical from Mr Branson’s Incredibly Noisy Trains – the promised delights of Berkhamstead would have to wait for another day. First up the next morning were Sewer Lock and Bottom Side Lock, and we were seriously wondering whether we should worry about the water quality. And then some more locks and we finally staggered into Berkhamstead just before lunch.

The promised moorings right next to the shops proved much more secluded than we’d dare hope: the Captain was most impressed. A most splendid café lunch in the busy high street, a mooch around the shops and the obligatory visit to the cook’s favourite grocery emporium preceded a late afternoon nap for the entire crew. (Well, to be honest, there aren’t many daylight hours when Sir isn’t napping).

Too late to start cooking, an evening walk along the towpath in pleasant sunshine worked up an appetite for dinner – two meals out in one day! Shock Horror!

Berkhamstead

We’re not sure why a canal-side block of flats should sport an (apparently genuine) totem pole.

Berkhamsted Totem PoleBerkhamstead Totem Pole

This old building seems to have jumped the gun on that nice Mr Osborne’s threat or promise to allow vertical home extensions without planning permission.

Berkhamstead

And while this towpath residence seems to have cornered the market in blue plant pots, it also seemed to be home for another friendly feline.

Blue PotsFran being unfaithful again

But most important of all, the proximity to Waitrose’s entrance meant one could indulge in that rare treat (on the canals, at least) of a second breakfast of croissants still warm from the baker’s oven, to go with the free coffee. Definitely a result.

The Summit Attempt

The various “authorities” are a bit vague as to the maximum beam (width) available on the Grand Union Canal (but then it was built in several different sections – there’s a clue in the name). Up to Berkhamstead the locks seem to accommodate barges up to 14’6” – certainly we could get 6’8” wide Song & Dance into a lock with only one gate open without any problems. Beyond there the locks seem a tad narrower, and just using a single gate more of a challenge. Mind you, some of the bridge holes seem even narrower – even a 12’6” wide-beam might be struggling. Still, not a problem for us.

Anyway, leaving Berkhamstead, we had another seven of those wide locks to surmount before reaching the Tring summit pound. We eventually exited the oddly named Cowroast Lock and moored up outside Cowroast Marina, wondering when exactly it was that the Argentinian Polo Team held one of their infamous post-match barbeques in the Chilterns.

Sherpa Bigglesworth had originally proposed a little celebration at successfully dragging his 16 tonnes of steel cat basket uphill through 35 miles and 57 broad locks, but just as we pulled alongside the bank the skies absolutely opened. With no option other than to complete mooring up in the sudden torrential rain, without any chance to tog up in waterproofs before the boat was secure, it was then necessary to batten down the hatches and indulge in a complete change of clothes, shoes etc. and find somewhere to dry the old ones. By which time all thoughts of ceremonially planting a flag at the summit had passed, and he’d gone for his lunchtime nap.

Going uphill through broad locks largely without a companion boat or even just one extra crew member to share the locking is quite hard work. The climb up from Brentford is fairly unremitting with the locks averaging less than a mile apart so there’s not much chance to rest in between! Still, for a couple of old narrow canal hands, it seemed quite an achievement.

Someone (can’t remember who) at Apsley had asked how far we’d come this year. So far, since leaving Cropredy just after Easter we would appear to have covered approximately 300 miles, and passed through 209 locks to Cowroast. Wonder how much further we’ll go this year – last year our total was 522 miles and 372 locks.

Box 14

In today’s digital photography world of instant gratification, there was always a bit of mystery and anticipation attached to the old familiar ritual of putting a film in the funny little yellow envelope/pouch, pressing down the metal fastener and writing “Box 14, Hemel Hempstead, Herts”. How long before the small plastic box of slides came home? How would the photos turn out?

(And you could write pretty well any address: the GPO would still send them to Hemel Hempstead. When Kodak UK went on strike, you were told you could send films to any of the Kodak labs, but you were urged to use plain envelopes, to avoid confusing the postmen).

Sadly, it wasn’t Paul Simon’s mother who took his Kodachrome away, but Kodak themselves. Millions of photographers loved the vibrant colours achievable in sunny weather – you always tried to get something bright red in the frame, even on landscapes – while medical labs loved the accurate flesh tones. And my favourite, Kodachrome 25 was so slow, I really don’t know how I managed to take any pictures at all in those days. Here’s a handheld photo that would have been a real challenge on Kodachrome…

Apsley Marina at dusk

Leaving Apsley Marina the canal skirts the main part of Hemel in very close proximity to the main railway line. The slow anticipation of Box 14 is alas no more, while Virgin Trains rush past with impressive frequency, at an impressive speed, making quite a noise.

Still climbing relentlessly uphill, one eventually reaches the more peaceful environs of Berkhamstead.  The Port of Berkhamstead in canal terms, it’s an important place in the navigation history. It also has pleasantly shaded and highly amenable moorings right next to Waitrose, and two minutes walk from the high street. Doesn’t have Box 14 though.

An Apsley Weekend

Not really knowing what to expect from this kind of “waterside development” marina, Apsley proved a surprisingly amenable spot. About 60 boats, a large convenience store/small supermarket on site, several restaurants, everyone very friendly, and the part-time warden (who lives on-site on a boat) affable and helpful. Who could ask for more?

A main line railway station just across the bridge, a big supermarket and DIY shed 5 minutes walk away, and the centre of Hemel Hempstead within easy reach… all in all we were surprised to find they’d got any space at all for itinerants, particularly as the visitor mooring fee was pretty reasonable. The only downside was the area’s frankly bizarre parking scheme run by an independent company. The deliberately confusing notices and the daily visits from the Schutzstaffel trained parking warden meant the whole scheme was clearly designed to maximise cash flow for the operators rather than provide useable parking at all times of day.

Apsley Marina

Next but one to us were a couple of chaps with a Chihuahua, and next to them a lady with a border collie and an adopted stray cat, so Biggles spent some time initially sorting out the local pecking / hissing / barking order, seemingly without any apparent damage or falling in the water.

Tug, ApsleyBoat For Sale

Just outside were a rather fine tug, and a shiny wide-beam. You often see “Boat for Sale” signs stuck in the windows of boats, but this is the first time we’ve seen one with their own fancy advertising board on the towpath. Must be overpriced…

Unfaithful Cook

Meanwhile, Fran decided to be unfaithful to the Captain, and made a big fuss of Wizz (whose staff were unknown). The boat behind with the pram hood is Shackleton and won the “best boat” award at the big annual bun fight at Crick last year. All sorts of stunning internal hand crafted wizardry and equipment, and an eye-watering price tag to boot. You could probably buy a nice Piper Dutch Barge for less. Surprisingly, the boat was built “on-spec” and sold at the show, rather than being built to the owners’ requirements.

Anyway, with the hot sunny weather, masses of washing was done and dried, and we retired once again to Woodys Vegetarian Café. They have a drinks licence, but we had to bring our own apostrophe…

Fran had jarred her knee somewhere along the line and was rather hors de combat, so we decided to stay another night, and Gill and Tony came over for lunch (Woodys again), then Vicki & Moore brought cakes for tea over later.

All this vegetarian dining and cake eating was beginning to get to us, so on Monday morning, after a few more chores and a protracted chat with Dave the Warden (who was also a musician, and singer with a long-standing 50s cover band) we finally set off to climb up some more locks.

All in all, a pleasant few days, and a pretty good place to moor for longer, we reckon.

Washing Ho…

The scorching weather and hard physical effort heading uphill through lock after lock hadn’t done a great deal for the clean clothes department, not to mention the bed linen department: a major laundry session was called for. There appeared to be a small-ish marina/waterside development called Apsley Marina run by British Waterways Marinas Ltd on the south-east outskirts of Hemel Hempstead. Apparently managed by another BWML marina south of Uxbridge, we weren’t hopeful, particularly when ringing the telephone number on the website evoked “Oh, we haven’t managed that place for six months…” and when told about the duff website information said “Oh, that’s probably why we keep getting calls…” (They’ve finally corrected the site).

A phone call to the real management (somewhere in darkest Bedfordshire), and on asking if they could manage overnight moorings for a 58ft Narrowboat with an electric hook-up, the lady said “Sure, no problem. Berth 57 will do you, and Dave the warden will be on duty at 14:00 – he’ll arrange the electrics for you”, and that was it. No third degree, inside leg measurements, email harvesting or anything. Very civilised.

Arriving about noon, we managed to get the boat in through the lift bridge with a BWB Key (every boat should have several), found berth 57 suitably vacant and (bonus!) a card key electric hook-up point with a significant amount of credit still left from the previous occupant. Didn’t look as though our neighbours had been around for a while though.

Spider's Web

Dave the Warden not immediately required, washing machine fired up, and a speedy retirement to Woody’s most excellent vegetarian café (already highly recommended by a passer by at the previous lock) for lunch. All of  30 yards from the boat, they had some nice bushes for the Captain too. Result!

Apsley MarinaWoody's Cafe

It’s a VW Golf, Jim…

From the Thames, the Grand Union Canal climbs inexorably into the Chilterns. The locks are big if you are on your own, but reasonably manageable. They come frequently enough to make it difficult to make a cup of tea, but they’re not always close enough to make a “flight” where lock-wheeling makes sense. Hard work.

The other saving grace is that the locks are consistent. The books say that when you’re the only boat heading uphill in a wide lock, you should tie up to one side as far back as possible, then start by opening the ground paddle on that side, which seems counter-intuitive. The theory is that the water rushes in across the front of the lock, hits the opposite wall and rebounds, keeping the boat gently pinned to the wall. On the GUC, so far this works a treat, even when fully opening the paddle at once. After our experiences last year on the Kennet and Avon (where this technique works less than 50% of the time), we were most impressed. Don’t think we’ve had the boat bouncing around diagonally across the lock once so far. (Fate: you are hereby invited…).

The Captain was too hot, and made several efforts to go ashore and find somewhere cooler before accepting that the shade inside the boat was as good as anywhere.

Meanwhile the canal skirts around Harefield, Rickmansworth, Watford, The Langleys (Abbots and Kings) but stays somehow divorced from them, being largely tree lined. Plodding on through the heat and the locks provided little incentive to linger or take photos, but we were rather “impressed” by the modified front deck of this boat. People sometimes put motorbikes in the front deck (getting them in/on and out/off must be a problem) but welding a VW Golf body to the front was a subtly different take on things. And no, we have no idea why. An entry for next years Turner Prize perhaps?

It's a VW Golf, Jim... but not as we know it.

Some people fit umbrellas or sunshades over the tiller, but we wouldn’t fancy trying to cruise with this one, even if we could put up with the clashing colours.

Parasol and Pink

And despite the dry weather and heat wave, there doesn’t seem to have been any shortage of water: the pound above this lock near Maple Cross is clearly more than full!

Springwell Lock

This section of the canal used to carry significant commercial traffic (gravel from the nearby pits) until fairly recently, when the gravel ran out. But the only commercial traffic we saw was the floating honeywagon / night soil boat, travelling between Brentford and Milton Keynes on a fortnightly run attending to the needs of the many permanently moored boats that couldn’t or couldn’t be bothered to head off for a land based pump-out station when needed. He didn’t need a warning horn…

Uxbridge, Denham and Afternoon Tea

A phone call to Uxbridge Boat Centre to find out whether our part had arrived elicited the response “well that explains that little mystery then”. The wholesalers had managed to post the cap off from the wilds of Norfolk and Good, but had failed in their promise to let Uxbridge Boat Centre know what was going on.

West Drayton

A strange bridge caught our eye passing through West Drayton.

The Boat Centre were very helpful: an old style boat yard still occupying premises once used by Fellows Morton and Clayton, the historic carrying company. The chandlery was an Aladdin’s cave, and their diesel cheap. Who could ask for more.

Somewhat confused to find Denham Marina right below Uxbridge Lock rather than Denham Lock, we wondered if the sweltering weather was getting to us. Just up the water from Uxbridge, on the rural-ish outskirts of Denham, an old and elderly family friend of SWMBO lives in a house with a garden that runs down to the canal. As it happened, she was at home and we were able to park in the willow tree at the end of her garden long enough for a very welcome afternoon cup of tea, before carrying on and eventually mooring somewhere in a water park not a million miles from Harefield Hospital.