The Summit Attempt

The various “authorities” are a bit vague as to the maximum beam (width) available on the Grand Union Canal (but then it was built in several different sections – there’s a clue in the name). Up to Berkhamstead the locks seem to accommodate barges up to 14’6” – certainly we could get 6’8” wide Song & Dance into a lock with only one gate open without any problems. Beyond there the locks seem a tad narrower, and just using a single gate more of a challenge. Mind you, some of the bridge holes seem even narrower – even a 12’6” wide-beam might be struggling. Still, not a problem for us.

Anyway, leaving Berkhamstead, we had another seven of those wide locks to surmount before reaching the Tring summit pound. We eventually exited the oddly named Cowroast Lock and moored up outside Cowroast Marina, wondering when exactly it was that the Argentinian Polo Team held one of their infamous post-match barbeques in the Chilterns.

Sherpa Bigglesworth had originally proposed a little celebration at successfully dragging his 16 tonnes of steel cat basket uphill through 35 miles and 57 broad locks, but just as we pulled alongside the bank the skies absolutely opened. With no option other than to complete mooring up in the sudden torrential rain, without any chance to tog up in waterproofs before the boat was secure, it was then necessary to batten down the hatches and indulge in a complete change of clothes, shoes etc. and find somewhere to dry the old ones. By which time all thoughts of ceremonially planting a flag at the summit had passed, and he’d gone for his lunchtime nap.

Going uphill through broad locks largely without a companion boat or even just one extra crew member to share the locking is quite hard work. The climb up from Brentford is fairly unremitting with the locks averaging less than a mile apart so there’s not much chance to rest in between! Still, for a couple of old narrow canal hands, it seemed quite an achievement.

Someone (can’t remember who) at Apsley had asked how far we’d come this year. So far, since leaving Cropredy just after Easter we would appear to have covered approximately 300 miles, and passed through 209 locks to Cowroast. Wonder how much further we’ll go this year – last year our total was 522 miles and 372 locks.

Box 14

In today’s digital photography world of instant gratification, there was always a bit of mystery and anticipation attached to the old familiar ritual of putting a film in the funny little yellow envelope/pouch, pressing down the metal fastener and writing “Box 14, Hemel Hempstead, Herts”. How long before the small plastic box of slides came home? How would the photos turn out?

(And you could write pretty well any address: the GPO would still send them to Hemel Hempstead. When Kodak UK went on strike, you were told you could send films to any of the Kodak labs, but you were urged to use plain envelopes, to avoid confusing the postmen).

Sadly, it wasn’t Paul Simon’s mother who took his Kodachrome away, but Kodak themselves. Millions of photographers loved the vibrant colours achievable in sunny weather – you always tried to get something bright red in the frame, even on landscapes – while medical labs loved the accurate flesh tones. And my favourite, Kodachrome 25 was so slow, I really don’t know how I managed to take any pictures at all in those days. Here’s a handheld photo that would have been a real challenge on Kodachrome…

Apsley Marina at dusk

Leaving Apsley Marina the canal skirts the main part of Hemel in very close proximity to the main railway line. The slow anticipation of Box 14 is alas no more, while Virgin Trains rush past with impressive frequency, at an impressive speed, making quite a noise.

Still climbing relentlessly uphill, one eventually reaches the more peaceful environs of Berkhamstead.  The Port of Berkhamstead in canal terms, it’s an important place in the navigation history. It also has pleasantly shaded and highly amenable moorings right next to Waitrose, and two minutes walk from the high street. Doesn’t have Box 14 though.

An Apsley Weekend

Not really knowing what to expect from this kind of “waterside development” marina, Apsley proved a surprisingly amenable spot. About 60 boats, a large convenience store/small supermarket on site, several restaurants, everyone very friendly, and the part-time warden (who lives on-site on a boat) affable and helpful. Who could ask for more?

A main line railway station just across the bridge, a big supermarket and DIY shed 5 minutes walk away, and the centre of Hemel Hempstead within easy reach… all in all we were surprised to find they’d got any space at all for itinerants, particularly as the visitor mooring fee was pretty reasonable. The only downside was the area’s frankly bizarre parking scheme run by an independent company. The deliberately confusing notices and the daily visits from the Schutzstaffel trained parking warden meant the whole scheme was clearly designed to maximise cash flow for the operators rather than provide useable parking at all times of day.

Apsley Marina

Next but one to us were a couple of chaps with a Chihuahua, and next to them a lady with a border collie and an adopted stray cat, so Biggles spent some time initially sorting out the local pecking / hissing / barking order, seemingly without any apparent damage or falling in the water.

Tug, ApsleyBoat For Sale

Just outside were a rather fine tug, and a shiny wide-beam. You often see “Boat for Sale” signs stuck in the windows of boats, but this is the first time we’ve seen one with their own fancy advertising board on the towpath. Must be overpriced…

Unfaithful Cook

Meanwhile, Fran decided to be unfaithful to the Captain, and made a big fuss of Wizz (whose staff were unknown). The boat behind with the pram hood is Shackleton and won the “best boat” award at the big annual bun fight at Crick last year. All sorts of stunning internal hand crafted wizardry and equipment, and an eye-watering price tag to boot. You could probably buy a nice Piper Dutch Barge for less. Surprisingly, the boat was built “on-spec” and sold at the show, rather than being built to the owners’ requirements.

Anyway, with the hot sunny weather, masses of washing was done and dried, and we retired once again to Woodys Vegetarian Café. They have a drinks licence, but we had to bring our own apostrophe…

Fran had jarred her knee somewhere along the line and was rather hors de combat, so we decided to stay another night, and Gill and Tony came over for lunch (Woodys again), then Vicki & Moore brought cakes for tea over later.

All this vegetarian dining and cake eating was beginning to get to us, so on Monday morning, after a few more chores and a protracted chat with Dave the Warden (who was also a musician, and singer with a long-standing 50s cover band) we finally set off to climb up some more locks.

All in all, a pleasant few days, and a pretty good place to moor for longer, we reckon.

Washing Ho…

The scorching weather and hard physical effort heading uphill through lock after lock hadn’t done a great deal for the clean clothes department, not to mention the bed linen department: a major laundry session was called for. There appeared to be a small-ish marina/waterside development called Apsley Marina run by British Waterways Marinas Ltd on the south-east outskirts of Hemel Hempstead. Apparently managed by another BWML marina south of Uxbridge, we weren’t hopeful, particularly when ringing the telephone number on the website evoked “Oh, we haven’t managed that place for six months…” and when told about the duff website information said “Oh, that’s probably why we keep getting calls…” (They’ve finally corrected the site).

A phone call to the real management (somewhere in darkest Bedfordshire), and on asking if they could manage overnight moorings for a 58ft Narrowboat with an electric hook-up, the lady said “Sure, no problem. Berth 57 will do you, and Dave the warden will be on duty at 14:00 – he’ll arrange the electrics for you”, and that was it. No third degree, inside leg measurements, email harvesting or anything. Very civilised.

Arriving about noon, we managed to get the boat in through the lift bridge with a BWB Key (every boat should have several), found berth 57 suitably vacant and (bonus!) a card key electric hook-up point with a significant amount of credit still left from the previous occupant. Didn’t look as though our neighbours had been around for a while though.

Spider's Web

Dave the Warden not immediately required, washing machine fired up, and a speedy retirement to Woody’s most excellent vegetarian café (already highly recommended by a passer by at the previous lock) for lunch. All of  30 yards from the boat, they had some nice bushes for the Captain too. Result!

Apsley MarinaWoody's Cafe

Musings Upon Herons

Wherever you are on the waterways, you never seem to be far from a heron. But they seem to behave differently in different places. On the narrow canals in the Midlands, you normally see them in open countryside, standing on the bank, and they clearly have their own territory. Approach one in a boat (even at idle, or with the engine off) and as one gets close, off it flaps ahead of you for a hundred yards or so before “assuming the position” again. After several goes at this, it finally gives up/reaches the end of it’s beat, and loops back to way before the first sighting, presumably to the beginning of it’s beat.

On the wide rivers, you sometime see them perched up in trees, and on the Basingstoke we saw them perching on boats. Still keeping a good distance though. Sometimes you saw them paddling in the shallows, and once at Oxford, we saw one standing in a fast flowing culvert/small weir, albeit barely getting its feet wet.

But maybe it’s the more urban/industrial atmosphere of the Grand Union, but the herons seem mainly oblivious to passing boats (even when passing quite close). And they also seem happy to do more than just paddle just getting their feet wet. We’ve seen several standing right up to their oxters in deep water while the world rushes past them.

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All of which reminds me of a time in another life, when working for a large project in International Computers Ltd (aka ICL) in Bracknell. Another large project was managed by a chap called Brian O’Heron aka Hero No Brain (anag). Imported from Univac by Geoff Cross, along with the infamous Ed Mack, one of O’Heron’s principal claims to fame was converting a large chunk of the Bracknell car park into a helicopter landing area so he could get to Putney HQ more easily, if at enormous cost. Smart political move when you’ve just been brought into a company in financial difficulties. His project were frequently causing ours difficulties, and they often claimed they needed some man power to cope with the interface between the two. One of my claims to fame was that when my departmental manager finally gave in and said “who do you want” the instant reply was “anybody but Bob Walton”. I still remember the Tannoy announcement that Geoff Cross was leaving, ostensibly to move to Arizona for health reasons. Ah, such sweet memories.

Tried Googling him to see what had become of him, but all I could find was this, which doesn’t exactly match my memories of that period (or, I suspect, those of many of my colleagues). Nostalgia ain’t what it used to be.

It’s a VW Golf, Jim…

From the Thames, the Grand Union Canal climbs inexorably into the Chilterns. The locks are big if you are on your own, but reasonably manageable. They come frequently enough to make it difficult to make a cup of tea, but they’re not always close enough to make a “flight” where lock-wheeling makes sense. Hard work.

The other saving grace is that the locks are consistent. The books say that when you’re the only boat heading uphill in a wide lock, you should tie up to one side as far back as possible, then start by opening the ground paddle on that side, which seems counter-intuitive. The theory is that the water rushes in across the front of the lock, hits the opposite wall and rebounds, keeping the boat gently pinned to the wall. On the GUC, so far this works a treat, even when fully opening the paddle at once. After our experiences last year on the Kennet and Avon (where this technique works less than 50% of the time), we were most impressed. Don’t think we’ve had the boat bouncing around diagonally across the lock once so far. (Fate: you are hereby invited…).

The Captain was too hot, and made several efforts to go ashore and find somewhere cooler before accepting that the shade inside the boat was as good as anywhere.

Meanwhile the canal skirts around Harefield, Rickmansworth, Watford, The Langleys (Abbots and Kings) but stays somehow divorced from them, being largely tree lined. Plodding on through the heat and the locks provided little incentive to linger or take photos, but we were rather “impressed” by the modified front deck of this boat. People sometimes put motorbikes in the front deck (getting them in/on and out/off must be a problem) but welding a VW Golf body to the front was a subtly different take on things. And no, we have no idea why. An entry for next years Turner Prize perhaps?

It's a VW Golf, Jim... but not as we know it.

Some people fit umbrellas or sunshades over the tiller, but we wouldn’t fancy trying to cruise with this one, even if we could put up with the clashing colours.

Parasol and Pink

And despite the dry weather and heat wave, there doesn’t seem to have been any shortage of water: the pound above this lock near Maple Cross is clearly more than full!

Springwell Lock

This section of the canal used to carry significant commercial traffic (gravel from the nearby pits) until fairly recently, when the gravel ran out. But the only commercial traffic we saw was the floating honeywagon / night soil boat, travelling between Brentford and Milton Keynes on a fortnightly run attending to the needs of the many permanently moored boats that couldn’t or couldn’t be bothered to head off for a land based pump-out station when needed. He didn’t need a warning horn…

Uxbridge, Denham and Afternoon Tea

A phone call to Uxbridge Boat Centre to find out whether our part had arrived elicited the response “well that explains that little mystery then”. The wholesalers had managed to post the cap off from the wilds of Norfolk and Good, but had failed in their promise to let Uxbridge Boat Centre know what was going on.

West Drayton

A strange bridge caught our eye passing through West Drayton.

The Boat Centre were very helpful: an old style boat yard still occupying premises once used by Fellows Morton and Clayton, the historic carrying company. The chandlery was an Aladdin’s cave, and their diesel cheap. Who could ask for more.

Somewhat confused to find Denham Marina right below Uxbridge Lock rather than Denham Lock, we wondered if the sweltering weather was getting to us. Just up the water from Uxbridge, on the rural-ish outskirts of Denham, an old and elderly family friend of SWMBO lives in a house with a garden that runs down to the canal. As it happened, she was at home and we were able to park in the willow tree at the end of her garden long enough for a very welcome afternoon cup of tea, before carrying on and eventually mooring somewhere in a water park not a million miles from Harefield Hospital.

Strip Clubs, Floating Classrooms and Music Archives

We were rudely woken up on our moorings near Woolpack Bridge at Hayes by the arrival of a very large and rather odd widebeam barge with two outboard motors (!) clouting our rear end attempting to moor next to us. We’d had a surprisingly quiet night up till then: although only about two miles as the crow flies from Heathrow, we weren’t on the flight path, and well inside any downwind traffic. Didn’t hear a peep from any aircraft, nor the even nearer M4 and Paddington main line. Quite remarkable.

And just “halfway from Heathrow to Uxbridge” the only two establishments close to the bridge access were a Sky Sports Pub/Strip Club with an additional Lap Dancing establishment in the car park, and the strangely deserted brick warehouse, so foot and bike traffic on the towpath was minimal. The Woolpack is apparently one of the most famous strip clubs/pubs outside of Shoreditch, and apparently busiest at lunchtime. Go figure. Anyway, once we’d told the Captain that any pussy at the Woolpack probably wouldn’t be to his taste, he spent the time exploring the overgrown paths into the adjacent country park.

Emerging into the morning light, the driver (I use the word loosely) came up to explain that it was his large car tyre fender that had clouted us, not his boat. He then asked if we were staying the night, as his odd looking boat was a floating classroom, he had a second pick-up the next morning from the same spot, and preferred to leave his boat overnight near others who might keep an eye out for anyone who might try and break in to raid the bar. He then asked if we knew what the large brick outhouse was: he’d attempted to wind the boat there once, went aground, and attracted a large number of security chaps who thought he might be attempting to moor up on that side of the canal.

Woolpack Bridge mooring

And then his party arrived: a crocodile of about thirty kids, holding hands in pairs just like we used to do, all smartly dressed in school uniform, and not one over 5 years old. Given today’s sensitivities, no close up photos were taken, although we all thought they looked sweet and very multicultural. If you look closely you can see them in the distance.

And as we cast off for the delights of West Drayton and Uxbridge, a thought struck us. Why would a floating classroom for primary school kids have a bar?

And as for the brick outhouse: we’d already had a clue from signs down the canal a bit, pointing to “The Old Vinyl Factory”… we were in EMI territory. The old vinyl factory may now be a smart apartment block, but the new building (which Google Street Map shows as just having a entrance sign that reads “EMI”) would seem to be a repository for rare musical stuff – the EMI Music Archive, no less.

Decision Day… Maybe

The plan was to head up past Bull’s Bridge junction (where the canal branches off to Paddington, London and the Regent’s Canal) and visit Uxbridge Boat Centre to collect our pump out cap so lovingly dispatched there from Timbuktu or wherever. And then, come back to the junction and head into London.

But the Captain had obviously been listening to other boaters, who said that moorings were a real problem (let alone cat friendly ones), due to “continuous cruisers moorers” looking for inexpensive digs taking up all the space. (Some 20 boats a month are moving into London at the moment, with none coming out… mooring three and four abreast, something will have to give). The Lee & Stort navigations were nice “once you got north of Hackney Marshes” (quite a way),  word was that Limehouse Basin was running out of water, and anyway the transit from Limehouse up the Thames through the City and Westminster was clearly more challenging that we’d originally thought…

Taken with the utter conviction of the weather forecasters that it was going to be hot hot hot, meant that after a short committee meeting the chairpuss decided that plans to do the London Loop would be postponed until a more suitable time. Any specific trips to London attractions (are there any?) could be done by train during the non-boating season. Ah well, we’d rather fancied visiting C#H by boat, but never mind.

Setting off in the already warm sunshine, we’d just emptied Hanwell Bottom Lock, got Song & Dance in and shut the gates when another boat arrived. Opening back up to let him in, we found it was the boat that had led our little convoy down the Thames. Slightly puzzled by the notice at the bottom, which said “Want some help with the Hanwell Locks? Call one of our Tuesday Volunteers…” we wondered what we were supposed to do on any other day of the week.

Anyway, sharing big locks with another crew is always easier, there appeared to be plenty of water, as the pound above was overflowing, and – miraculously – a couple of volunteers appeared to help. We didn’t tell them they’d got the day wrong…

 What water shortage?

Eight locks later, past lunchtime, with it getting seriously hot, we proceeded out of the last one followed by our companions spurred on by the news that Bulls Bridge junction was only 20 minutes away, and there was a huge Tesco superstore with its own moorings so we could stock up on cold beer etc. etc.

The canal had other ideas. Considering the area, the water was surprisingly clear. It was also full of chopped reeds (whether from a bank cutting exercise that naughtily threw the stuff in the canal, or chopped by propellers off the liberal amount growing underwater we don’t know) and rubbish. Going slower and slower, and losing steerage, we just managed to make it to the bank, and indulged in that favourite pastime called “going down the weed hatch”. It’s even more fun when (a) the engine is hot and (b) it’s a stinking hot day.

Last time we had a major blockage it was caused by an M&S ladies’ twin set near somewhere posh. This time, half an hour’s cursing and swearing extracted large quantities of reeds, some very fine pond weed, several massacred plastic bags, and a sari.

Tesco Dry Dock, Bull's BridgeBull's Bridge looking up Paddington Arm

Arriving rather later at Bull’s Bridge, Tesco was suitably raided, and with a look at the restored dry dock under the car park, and a long look up the Paddington Arm, we set off towards Uxbridge looking for the first suitable mooring.

DSCF2431

Wandering through Hayes, several bridges had access to shops and services, and were hence busy with boats and towpath drinkers, before we came to Hollybush Bridge, where there were pleasant mooring on one side next to an overgrown country park, and a large, quiet, windowless brick warehouse type of place on the other. The moment we stopped to check it out, Biggles jumped on shore to check it out and disappeared into the woods. That’ll do us, then…

One Good Tern Deserves Another

One gets used to seeing Black Headed Gulls pretty well everywhere on the canal system (or anywhere else for that matter). But one  of the things that quite surprised us (even more so this year) is how often one sees Common Terns inland these days too. On the canals as well as the River Thames. They really are quite spectacular wheeling and diving, and flashing past the boat.

But from the moment we left Teddington Locks on the tidal river, we didn’t see either. Loads of the bigger Black Backed Gulls, though, and a few Herring Gulls.

Maybe it was the wet weather, but it looked like it’s not just the locks and the boats that get bigger as you head down river…