Monthly Archives: July 2016

Bumbleholes, Bratch and Cricket

WomborneWomborne

First stop on Thursday just had to be Sainsbury’s at Womborne. Right on the canal (it’s just the other side of the bridge), and the visitor moorings have a nice garden just perfect for Sir to explore while we were shopping. Pub opposite, and potentially a nice place to moor for the night, marred by quite heavy road traffic, and the pylons overhead. Some you win…

Tricky LockTricky Lock

Tricky Lock

A little further up comes Bumblehole Bridge and Lock. Approached at the bottom from round a blind bend, getting Song & Dance aligned and into the bridgehole without hitting anything was challenge enough, without the excitement of oncoming traffic. And no, we don’t know where the name comes from, but there appears to be another one over at Dudley (not far away as the corvid aviates).

Bratch Locks

Bratch LocksBratch Locks

And then one comes to the impressive, if bizarre, Bratch Locks. Sometimes, when space is tight, a staircase lock is used. This is where the bottom gate of one lock is the top gate of the one below. You can pack a lot in (Foxton has two 5 chamber staircases), but you have to traverse the whole flight before anyone can come in the opposite direction, which can severely restrict traffic flow, while the potential for fiascos is dramatically increased.  At Grindley Brook on the Llangollen canal the six locks with a three chamber staircase at the top is a well known bottleneck, with delays of up to six hours in the high season. As far as we can work out, the main role of the lockkeeper there is to stop the punch ups and queue jumping attempts with hire boats trying to get back to base on time, and running late.

At Bratch locks, things are even odder. There are three complete locks, each with their own top and bottom gates, but the distance between the locks is only about 10 feet. So you have the disadvantages of a staircase, with the added complication of more paddles, diverting water in side pounds and whatever. No wonder the lockkeeper looked harassed. Woe betied you if you get things wrong.

When we arrived, there was a 45 minute delay, as they were having to sort out water levels from and earlier problem. The volunteer assistant had undergone a solo operation competency check earlier, and passed, and was clearly so relieved he screwed up the middle lock paddles and drained the system… There but for the grace of <insert your favourite deity> go us.

By the time we made it up to the top, we’d had enough, and moored at a very pleasant spot opposite the local cricket club, and spent some time watching the youngsters do their stuff. A classic British scene, but with the sun low on the horizon and glowering low rain clouds, there are no pictures. Wonder what tomorrow will bring!

Kingfishers Are Off, Dear, and Not That Swindon

Setting off fairly early – for us – on Wednesday morning, we continued on up the canal in rather uninspiring weather. The early start made all the difference, and without any obvious effort, we managed 6 miles and 7 locks – long haul for us!

The first time we came down this part of the Staffordshire and Worcester Canal some years go, we saw loads of Kingfishers; in one sunny afternoon near Kinver we gave up counting after some 20+ sightings. This time they were obviously keeping their heads down, and we had seen nary a one from Stourport up.

After the exertions of the last two days, we tied up at Not That Swindon, a small canalside village with a couple of pubs, small convenience store, Thai restaurant and hairdresser. We decided that all things considered we deserved to eat out, and indeed the Thai food was extremely nice (and surprisingly cheap).

Bowing to pressure from the Captain,  the navigator also availed himself of the hairdresser, so he’s probably not going to regain his strength for a while…

Rock Houses are Off, Dear

Leaving Wolverley on the Tuesday morning, we pootled up through a couple of locks to Kinver, getting there around lunchtime and surprisingly finding the visitor moorings more or less completely empty. Kinver sits on high red sandstone ground over the canal and River Stour; a pleasant village/town with most of what you need, and is a bit of a boating honeypot. Going further uphill there are some notable Rock Houses set high up on Kinver Edge. Although we know Kinver well (Song & Dance’s cratch and rear covers and some furniture come from a well known family business here), but despite past visits by boat and car, we’d never struggled all the way up to look at the Rock Houses. SWMBO was insistent that we made the effort to use our National Trust membership, so despite it being warm and muggy, we set off uphill.

We immediately bumped into Ralph Wilson (voluble furniture supplier to the boating fraternity) at the bridge, which delayed matters quite a bit. Then, after a hot and sweaty walk up through the village and climbing further up, almost to the top of Kinver Edge, we found that on Tuesdays, the Rock Houses are closed. Having failed to do the relevant basic homework, the Events Organiser decided the only thing was to continue climbing (!) to check the view from the top of Kinver Edge. Mutter mutter…

Kinver EdgeKinver Edge

The views of Wolverhampton and Birmingham were indeed noteworthy.

Kinver Visitor MooringsKinver Visitor Moorings

Returning to the boat for dinner and a hose down, the visitor moorings had pretty much filled up – it’s not like us to get somewhere earlier than the rest! Nevertheless, Skipper was suitably impressed that our mooring had its own outdoor seating and garden, and pronounced  himself well pleased.

Vera Lynn, Béla Bartók and Bob Dylan

The Captain had promised us a day off from boating, and we’d had a vague plan to visit the Severn Valley Railway, which runs from Kidderminster to Bridgenorth. The brochures/timetables littering the Tourist Information places said there was a special event/timetable this weekend. Wandering up to Kidderminster Station on Saturday afternoon to investigate proved slightly surreal: it was some kind of WW2 weekend festival. It was wall-to-wall Vera Lynn, ladies in nice frocks and strange hair-dos, and men in uniforms. The place was mobbed, and it wasn’t clear whether the wedding services halfway down the line on Sunday were re-enactments or for real. We decided that we would save our visit for a more “normal” day!

Just opposite the station was an emporium entitled “CB Radio and Gun Shop” which we found vaguely disturbing. The traffic on the motorways is bad enough without coordinated convoys of gun toting HGVs creating havoc.

The local symphony orchestra was having their summer Saturday night concert in the Town Hall, and the chief cook decided she would like some culture. The programme included Bartók, Vaughan Williams, and Mendelssohn; the band were a lot better than the FO had feared (from past experience), and the newly decorated hall was a splendid venue. The young lady fiddle soloist on Lark Ascending was pretty good too, although the head to neck tattoos and Doc Martens seemed rather unusual in the classical music environment.

A rather late start on Sunday morning saw us at Wolverley Lock around lunchtime, a pleasant spot with a pub right on the lock, a tea bar/ice cream shop on the other side, and a large car park. It was a rare warm and sunny day, and the place was predictably mobbed.

Wolverley Lock

We wandered down about 7pm to see if the Sunday Lunch brigade had dispersed and we could get something to eat, but even though the crowds had diminished, the pub was still forecasting an hour or more’s wait for food, so we went back and ate on the boat.

We knew – from a previous visit years ago – that there had been a folk club at the pub, and finding it was still running on Monday nights, decided to stop over, have dinner in the pub, and go out for yet more music. Rather short on numbers, it turned out to be one of the more unusual clubs we’ve been to, but a pleasant evening ensued; the organiser said he wanted Song & Dance’s musical director to come and sing at his 70th birthday party (date unspecified), and demanded a mobile number. Ho hum.

One of the regulars, who spent the entire evening poring through a large collection of song books and folders, stood up and sung an unaccompanied Blowin’ In The Wind – one of those oh so famous songs like Streets of London, Last Thing on my Mind  or The Wild Rover that were so overdone at the time that no one sings them any more. He did a fine rendition, and sadly, the words are still just as appropriate as they were in the sixties.

Another lesson learned on the way back along the towpath: if you forget to take a torch, and use the Torch app on your mobile to light your way home, it’s a good idea to turn it off when you get there. Or the phone battery will resemble a very flat pancake…

Into The Valley of Carpets No More

Extricating ourselves from Falling Sands Lock without any mischief this time around, we were soon pootling into Kidderminster; a short stop to let the Captain hide under the cars in the 24 hour Tesco Superstore car park , and we were soon climbing up through Kidderminster Lock, with the impressive church looming into view.

Kidderminster LockKidderminster Lock

Going down Kidderminster Lock used to be a surreal experience. The bottom gate is very (very) close to a main traffic light interchange on the Kidderminster Ring Road. The ring road crosses the canal on the concrete bridge in the photo below, which is a lot closer that the wide-angle picture suggests. Before you empty the lock, if you stand at the front of the boat  you can almost reach out and touch the traffic rushing past: it really is bedlam there with loads of pedestrians too.

Kidderminster Lock

Years ago, when the FO first came this way, as you sunk down you waved bye bye to the chaos, and when you emerged from the other end of the tunnel under the ring road, you found yourself in a different world. Right up close on both sides, tall carpet warehouses – largely out of use – loomed over you, and cut out all the noise. It was like emerging into a silent brick Grand Canyon, and an astonishing contrast to what was going on just behind you.

These days, most of the warehouses are gone. As you emerge from the tunnel the first thing you come across is a drive-thru MacDonalds. Followed by a large car park for the no-longer-in-the-high-street emporiums like Marks & Spencer, Next, Boots, Debenhams etc. etc.  Deep joy.

What I Tell You Three Times Is True

Falling Sands Lock is a pleasant enough spot if the wind’s in the right direction… it’s just next to the sewage works.  Setting off on the Saturday morning, we remembered the lock well, as we’d come to blows the last time we were here, a few years ago.

Falling Sands LockIf you’re coming down from Kidderminster you approach the lock entrance/top gate on a bend. Concentrating on trying to get the boat approximately lined up with the lock, we failed to notice that the gate hadn’t opened quite all the way, and with a modest burst of power to straighten things up, firmly wedged the boat in the lock entrance.

The geometry was such that the front rubbing strake had climbed up on top of the top gate walkway, and despite much creative use of engine revs, barge poles, paddle manipulation and multi-lingual swear words, we were well stuck.

Can’t remember how we managed it in the end, but it took well over half-an-hour to extract the boat, and about the same to dig out whatever was stopping the gate fully opening in the first place. What jolly japes.

Coming up, we couldn’t help noticing that there were now three ways to cross the canal at the bottom of the lock.

Falling Sands LockFalling Sands Lock

The furthest downstream was accessed by the old and well worn stone steps; from the brickwork, the parapet had clearly been added later. There was also a rope slot down the middle. Then there was the metal walkway, clearly added later, that may have had a rope slot, now blocked up. And then there was the usual walkway across the bottom gates.

With some locks one struggles to find a single way across the bottom, so I wonder why they felt three were needed.

The P is Silent, as in Sausages

Some years ago, quite a few now, we realised that there was more to sausages that the dreadful flavoured sawdust wrapped in case-hardened plastic that Walls used to sell; the works canteen ones weren’t much better. And over the years, local butchers have put in significant effort to make their own variety of yummy home made bangers.

So, when we’re wandering around the UK, shopping for food, we quite often buy a selection of different home made sausages from the best looking local butcher shop. We’re rarely disappointed, and have had loads of nice meals, and to make things even more interesting, the variety and quality seems to steadily improve.

The Venison and Old Spot bangers from the nice butcher in Stourport High Street were absolutely delicious. His “they’re slightly spicy” Shropshire Sizzlers were also delicious, but were – without doubt – the first two-hanky sausages we’d ever come across.

This has been a Public Service Announcement.

Cough, Sneeze, Splutter.

Boring Bits and the Bus to Bewdley

The oracle said that Bewdley – about three miles further up the River Severn – was well worth a visit. So  we thought we’d dig out our “old-fogey” bus passes, and catch the Tesco shuttle bus. But there were more immediate concerns: we were fast running out of water, and so rather than heading off on an expedition on the Thursday morning, we needed to look after Song & Dance’s needs.

The nearest water point was about 200 yards behind us, down in the Upper Basin (very close to the crane in the previous post). And while backing Song & Dance 200 yards isn’t that tricky – just tedious – backing her through a deep narrow lock was a challenge we chickened out of. There was a winding hole about three-quarters of a mile up stream, so we headed off through the outskirts of Stourport, turned round, came back, locked down into the basin, and took on water. The diesel was cheap so we took on some of that too. Then we locked back up, and tied her up to the same rings we’d left several hours before. Ah, the excitement!

With heavy rain in North Wales we’d noticed that the Severn was showing signs of rising, so when we headed off for the Bewdley bus on Friday morning, we weren’t entirely surprised to head that the river had gone onto red boards.

Bewdley BridgeBewdley

Taking coffee on the riverside by the bridge, it was quite clear the river was definitely high, and with quite a flow on it, and were well glad Song & Dance was up on the canal system and safe.

BewdleyBewdley

DSCF4716SWMBO

Bewdley is indeed worth a visit, and from the bridge seems almost like a miniature version of Henley-on-Thames. It even brought a smile to the chief cook’s face.

Bewdley

Apparently the Severn is navigable beyond Stourport, nearly but not quite to Bewdley. Certainly above Bewdley it gets quite narrow and shallow, although – like Henley – they do have an annual regatta. I guess rowing sculls don’t need much depth of water!

Bewdley

We were also intrigued by this little prophetic little ginnel, which seemed as though it would really be more at home in Tewkesbury.

Bussing back to Stourport in the early afternoon, we found the moorings above the basin were rapidly filling up with frustrated boaters unable to get onto the Severn; there was even a CaRT volunteer at the lock telling people there was no point in going down into the basin because there was nowhere left to moor.

Being good citizens, we checked with the Captain, and although late in the day, decided to head on out of Stourport a little way to help the mooring situation. And so, retracing the first part of yesterday’s chunter, an hour or so later we found a quiet spot just below Falling Sands Lock, of which more later.