Category Archives: General

Kingfishers Are Off, Dear, and Not That Swindon

Setting off fairly early – for us – on Wednesday morning, we continued on up the canal in rather uninspiring weather. The early start made all the difference, and without any obvious effort, we managed 6 miles and 7 locks – long haul for us!

The first time we came down this part of the Staffordshire and Worcester Canal some years go, we saw loads of Kingfishers; in one sunny afternoon near Kinver we gave up counting after some 20+ sightings. This time they were obviously keeping their heads down, and we had seen nary a one from Stourport up.

After the exertions of the last two days, we tied up at Not That Swindon, a small canalside village with a couple of pubs, small convenience store, Thai restaurant and hairdresser. We decided that all things considered we deserved to eat out, and indeed the Thai food was extremely nice (and surprisingly cheap).

Bowing to pressure from the Captain,  the navigator also availed himself of the hairdresser, so he’s probably not going to regain his strength for a while…

Rock Houses are Off, Dear

Leaving Wolverley on the Tuesday morning, we pootled up through a couple of locks to Kinver, getting there around lunchtime and surprisingly finding the visitor moorings more or less completely empty. Kinver sits on high red sandstone ground over the canal and River Stour; a pleasant village/town with most of what you need, and is a bit of a boating honeypot. Going further uphill there are some notable Rock Houses set high up on Kinver Edge. Although we know Kinver well (Song & Dance’s cratch and rear covers and some furniture come from a well known family business here), but despite past visits by boat and car, we’d never struggled all the way up to look at the Rock Houses. SWMBO was insistent that we made the effort to use our National Trust membership, so despite it being warm and muggy, we set off uphill.

We immediately bumped into Ralph Wilson (voluble furniture supplier to the boating fraternity) at the bridge, which delayed matters quite a bit. Then, after a hot and sweaty walk up through the village and climbing further up, almost to the top of Kinver Edge, we found that on Tuesdays, the Rock Houses are closed. Having failed to do the relevant basic homework, the Events Organiser decided the only thing was to continue climbing (!) to check the view from the top of Kinver Edge. Mutter mutter…

Kinver EdgeKinver Edge

The views of Wolverhampton and Birmingham were indeed noteworthy.

Kinver Visitor MooringsKinver Visitor Moorings

Returning to the boat for dinner and a hose down, the visitor moorings had pretty much filled up – it’s not like us to get somewhere earlier than the rest! Nevertheless, Skipper was suitably impressed that our mooring had its own outdoor seating and garden, and pronounced  himself well pleased.

Vera Lynn, Béla Bartók and Bob Dylan

The Captain had promised us a day off from boating, and we’d had a vague plan to visit the Severn Valley Railway, which runs from Kidderminster to Bridgenorth. The brochures/timetables littering the Tourist Information places said there was a special event/timetable this weekend. Wandering up to Kidderminster Station on Saturday afternoon to investigate proved slightly surreal: it was some kind of WW2 weekend festival. It was wall-to-wall Vera Lynn, ladies in nice frocks and strange hair-dos, and men in uniforms. The place was mobbed, and it wasn’t clear whether the wedding services halfway down the line on Sunday were re-enactments or for real. We decided that we would save our visit for a more “normal” day!

Just opposite the station was an emporium entitled “CB Radio and Gun Shop” which we found vaguely disturbing. The traffic on the motorways is bad enough without coordinated convoys of gun toting HGVs creating havoc.

The local symphony orchestra was having their summer Saturday night concert in the Town Hall, and the chief cook decided she would like some culture. The programme included Bartók, Vaughan Williams, and Mendelssohn; the band were a lot better than the FO had feared (from past experience), and the newly decorated hall was a splendid venue. The young lady fiddle soloist on Lark Ascending was pretty good too, although the head to neck tattoos and Doc Martens seemed rather unusual in the classical music environment.

A rather late start on Sunday morning saw us at Wolverley Lock around lunchtime, a pleasant spot with a pub right on the lock, a tea bar/ice cream shop on the other side, and a large car park. It was a rare warm and sunny day, and the place was predictably mobbed.

Wolverley Lock

We wandered down about 7pm to see if the Sunday Lunch brigade had dispersed and we could get something to eat, but even though the crowds had diminished, the pub was still forecasting an hour or more’s wait for food, so we went back and ate on the boat.

We knew – from a previous visit years ago – that there had been a folk club at the pub, and finding it was still running on Monday nights, decided to stop over, have dinner in the pub, and go out for yet more music. Rather short on numbers, it turned out to be one of the more unusual clubs we’ve been to, but a pleasant evening ensued; the organiser said he wanted Song & Dance’s musical director to come and sing at his 70th birthday party (date unspecified), and demanded a mobile number. Ho hum.

One of the regulars, who spent the entire evening poring through a large collection of song books and folders, stood up and sung an unaccompanied Blowin’ In The Wind – one of those oh so famous songs like Streets of London, Last Thing on my Mind  or The Wild Rover that were so overdone at the time that no one sings them any more. He did a fine rendition, and sadly, the words are still just as appropriate as they were in the sixties.

Another lesson learned on the way back along the towpath: if you forget to take a torch, and use the Torch app on your mobile to light your way home, it’s a good idea to turn it off when you get there. Or the phone battery will resemble a very flat pancake…

Into The Valley of Carpets No More

Extricating ourselves from Falling Sands Lock without any mischief this time around, we were soon pootling into Kidderminster; a short stop to let the Captain hide under the cars in the 24 hour Tesco Superstore car park , and we were soon climbing up through Kidderminster Lock, with the impressive church looming into view.

Kidderminster LockKidderminster Lock

Going down Kidderminster Lock used to be a surreal experience. The bottom gate is very (very) close to a main traffic light interchange on the Kidderminster Ring Road. The ring road crosses the canal on the concrete bridge in the photo below, which is a lot closer that the wide-angle picture suggests. Before you empty the lock, if you stand at the front of the boat  you can almost reach out and touch the traffic rushing past: it really is bedlam there with loads of pedestrians too.

Kidderminster Lock

Years ago, when the FO first came this way, as you sunk down you waved bye bye to the chaos, and when you emerged from the other end of the tunnel under the ring road, you found yourself in a different world. Right up close on both sides, tall carpet warehouses – largely out of use – loomed over you, and cut out all the noise. It was like emerging into a silent brick Grand Canyon, and an astonishing contrast to what was going on just behind you.

These days, most of the warehouses are gone. As you emerge from the tunnel the first thing you come across is a drive-thru MacDonalds. Followed by a large car park for the no-longer-in-the-high-street emporiums like Marks & Spencer, Next, Boots, Debenhams etc. etc.  Deep joy.

What I Tell You Three Times Is True

Falling Sands Lock is a pleasant enough spot if the wind’s in the right direction… it’s just next to the sewage works.  Setting off on the Saturday morning, we remembered the lock well, as we’d come to blows the last time we were here, a few years ago.

Falling Sands LockIf you’re coming down from Kidderminster you approach the lock entrance/top gate on a bend. Concentrating on trying to get the boat approximately lined up with the lock, we failed to notice that the gate hadn’t opened quite all the way, and with a modest burst of power to straighten things up, firmly wedged the boat in the lock entrance.

The geometry was such that the front rubbing strake had climbed up on top of the top gate walkway, and despite much creative use of engine revs, barge poles, paddle manipulation and multi-lingual swear words, we were well stuck.

Can’t remember how we managed it in the end, but it took well over half-an-hour to extract the boat, and about the same to dig out whatever was stopping the gate fully opening in the first place. What jolly japes.

Coming up, we couldn’t help noticing that there were now three ways to cross the canal at the bottom of the lock.

Falling Sands LockFalling Sands Lock

The furthest downstream was accessed by the old and well worn stone steps; from the brickwork, the parapet had clearly been added later. There was also a rope slot down the middle. Then there was the metal walkway, clearly added later, that may have had a rope slot, now blocked up. And then there was the usual walkway across the bottom gates.

With some locks one struggles to find a single way across the bottom, so I wonder why they felt three were needed.

The P is Silent, as in Sausages

Some years ago, quite a few now, we realised that there was more to sausages that the dreadful flavoured sawdust wrapped in case-hardened plastic that Walls used to sell; the works canteen ones weren’t much better. And over the years, local butchers have put in significant effort to make their own variety of yummy home made bangers.

So, when we’re wandering around the UK, shopping for food, we quite often buy a selection of different home made sausages from the best looking local butcher shop. We’re rarely disappointed, and have had loads of nice meals, and to make things even more interesting, the variety and quality seems to steadily improve.

The Venison and Old Spot bangers from the nice butcher in Stourport High Street were absolutely delicious. His “they’re slightly spicy” Shropshire Sizzlers were also delicious, but were – without doubt – the first two-hanky sausages we’d ever come across.

This has been a Public Service Announcement.

Cough, Sneeze, Splutter.

A Stroll Round Stourport

The rain cleared up, and the sun came out, so even though we knew the place well, an evening stroll seemed mandatory. It’s an interesting place to wander around: once upon a time a serious inland port with several large basins set above the Severn, it transmogrified into a tourist destination that fell on hard times. The Severn riverside is quite an attraction, and there’s a large public park and so on, immediately next to a sizeable funfair. And even though all the pretty lights were on, and it appeared to be open, we never saw a single person on any of the rides. The place was clearly aimed at day-trippers from the Midlands once upon a time, as most of the eating establishments are tea/ice cream related and shut at 16:30 – proper restaurants are few and far between. Early evening and the place was as quiet as a mouse. Mind you, it wasn’t much different at lunchtime in the rain, come to think of it.

Stourport Upper BasinStourport Upper Basin

The basins are full of narrowboats and river cruisers; the upper one with the CaRT facilities on the wharf is always busy with boats moving around.

Stourport Flats

Just across from there are some new-ish flats built around a previously abandoned basin. They’ve been there for quite a few years now, but not one of the private moorings was occupied. Mind you, a tiny stub pontoon and an anchored buoy at the other end to tie up to isn’t exactly our favourite kind of mooring, particularly when there seem to be a few unoccupied berths in the main basins.

Tontine, StourportStourport River Moorings

Down on the river, The Tontine – now “luxury” flats – has long been a landmark when heading up river, announcing one’s arrival at Stourport. And our old friend from Gloucester Lock and Tewkesbury Edward Elgar was moored up where we’d been the night before. Good job we moved, then – he’s a bit bigger than us.

Stourport Lower BasinStourport Lower Basin

Stourport Narrow Locks

Coming up off the river,you have a choice: a large wide-beam lock up to the lower basins, then another up to the upper basins. Or a narrow 2-stage staircase lock to the lower basins, and another up to the upper. The broad locks use way more water, and a rumoured to be seriously hard work, so there’s quite an incentive to use the narrow option if you can. It just looks awful tiny when you try and squeeze a boat in!

Stourport WharfStourport Clock Tower

And we couldn’t go without a picture of the old BWB HQ at The Wharf, and the famous Clocktower (still telling the correct time).

Vikings Ahoy and a Serious Challenge

Lowesmoor Basin at Worcester (where we’d originally intended to moor Song & Dance while Suffolk Girl did her thing) is one of the bases of a large narrowboat hire company, some of whose boats go out under the Viking Afloat brand. We’d helped one of their boat crews on Monday night: after a car long journey, tuition session etc., they’d finally set out, come through Diglis Basin, locked down the Diglis Canal locks (hard work), and were having a complete fiasco trying to moor up on the Severn visitor moorings where there was a modest flow. Let’s be charitable, and put it down to tiredness, hunger and low blood sugar levels.

Anyway, they set off some time before us on Tuesday morning, heading – we presumed – for Stourport-upon-Severn, where we were also heading.

And soon confirmed a theory of ours that hire boats are seriously under-propped/slugged, so that the punters couldn’t go fast enough to get into too much trouble. At Song & Dance’s comfortable river cruising  power, we soon caught up with them and passed them, even though they had loads of revs on and were making quite a wake compared to us.

Overtaking the Vikings

We didn’t see them again, they probably stopped at one of the pubs for lunch.

We eventually made Stourport (11.5 miles and three locks uphill) after about three hours, and given events earlier in the cruise were understandably anxious to get off the river and back onto the canal system, away from the vagaries of the rainfall in North Wales. But mooring up temporarily on the river visitor moorings we soon established that the moorings up in the basin were full, so risked it and stayed there overnight before heading up into town. Biggles was pleased as the river moorings are immediately below the Angel pub, so he was able to go for a swift half while we had dinner.

The next morning the river was still on Green Boards (hurrah) , but after weeks of wide rivers and locks, and more recently manned huge locks, trying to thread Song & Dance  into the narrow bottom lock, (conveniently placed at 90 degrees to the increasing river flow, and with a strong gusting cross wind) proved quite a challenge. We know the lock is 6 inches wider than the boat, but it looked as though we wouldn’t even fit. Fortunately everything went smoothly for once, without any crashing noises or broken crockery and the Captain was most impressed.

A sigh of relied… we were back in our comfort zone! Locking up through the two narrow staircase flights, we picked our way carefully through the several upper basins, and out the other side up one more lock, tied up on the pleasant visitor moorings above the port, and waited for the rain to stop.

Massive Checkatrade Failure

Seems the problem of finding a reliable builder for cathedral improvements was as big a problem then as it is finding a decent builder these days. Bodgit and Scarper Ltd were clearly well established in Tudor times.

Worcester Cathedral: Prince Arthur's Tomb

There are a couple of older tombs just to the right of SWMBO in the picture, and they decided they wanted to build a big tall impressive tomb/chapel/whatever on top, for Prince Arthur. The filigree masonry and everything is just staggering. But when  they came to assemble all that fancy carved masonry screen, they found it was about six inches too high.

Worcester Cathedral: Bodge Job

So rather than go back and do it properly, they just hacked away at the existing fabric of the cathedral, and hoped no one would notice.

Hog Roast

Nearby is a carving of a spit-roasted human… one of the masons perhaps.

Worcester–Cloister, Crypt and Chapter House

Staying with the C theme, there’s a fine crypt…

Worcester Cathedral: CryptWorcester Cathedral: Crypt

… a splendid large circular Chapter House, which defied all attempts to depict properly in a photo…

Chapter HouseWorcester Cathedral: Chapter House

… and a fine Cloister, where the supporting columns had aligned holes, so the head monk could peer down all one side and check the chaps were all heads down and working hard. The middle photo gives an idea.

Worcester Cathedral: CloisterWorcester Cathedral: CloisterWorcester Cathedral: Chapter House