Category Archives: General

The Thames at Oxford

The Upper Thames from Oxford up to Lechlade is supposed to be narrow and very overgrown, but dropping down onto it via Isis Lock and Sheepwash channel under the railway you wouldn’t know from the early section! Compared to the overgrown and narrow horizons of the canal, the Port Meadow water meadows and big sky, combined with horses at the water’s edge and occasional sightings of a Little Egrets made it seem more like the Carmargue!

 Onto the River ThamesPort Meadow / Wolvercote

However, once past the Duke’s Cut junction (going back onto the Oxford Canal at Wolvercote) and past Godstow, it all changes. Lunch at King’s Lock was spent in the company of a surprisingly tame heron with a limp: one of his legs looks different to the other.

Above King's LockLimping Heron - 1Limping Heron - 2Limping Heron - 3

And of course, you get bigger boats on the river too – even if Osney Bridge downstream is too low for most of them. Folding wheel-houses come in handy…

Barge at EynshamBarges at Eynsham

Dreaming Spires? Anchors? Not!

A gentle pootle down through Kidlington and arrival in Oxford, with the intention of sorting out an anchor for river emergencies on the Thames, and the possibility (unfulfilled in the end) of the first human overnight visitor.

Silly me! A decent chandler in Oxford? No chance. In the end, after much discussion, an anchor and chain ordered from a place halfway to Lechlade, that will be there on Thursday. The old Air Operator / Quality Manager habits kick in and a full Risk Assessment was carried out: river at summer levels, flow almost non-existent, and no heavy rain forecast for several days. The decision was made: leave Oxford for Lechlade, and pick up the anchor on the way back down.

And as for Oxford… the moorings were pleasant enough if scruffy, right down in Jericho and very close to the town centre (10 minutes walk to M&S), but right by St. Barnabas Church, whose rather odd sounding bells ringing unpredictably all day are rather offset by the noise from the railway station and marshaling yard about 100 yards away beyond the trees. Jericho is delightful, there are some lovely looking non-chain restaurants and shops, and it’s relatively quiet.

The town centre and colleges might have some splendid architecture but is absolutely mobbed with huge crowds of mainly foreign tourists milling around or following flags held aloft on walking tours. Couldn’t get near anything, and I’m not normally claustrophobic, but all in all felt no urge to try and find a position to take any pictures! Made Windsor feel like a deserted village.

Biggles was not over impressed: there’s loads of boats moving around, the towpath is very busy with cyclists, dogs, people with rolling suitcases rushing to catch trains, and we reckon we heard more people talking various flavours of foreign than we did talking English. Even in the Oxford Visitor Information Centre, it was clear that the majority of staff had English as their second language rather than their first: perhaps that’s where the graduates from all the English schools/colleges go!

So apart from several shopping expeditions for herself, we’ve not really seen much of the town: would like to come back when it’s quieter, but we’re told it’s like this year in year out nowadays. So it’s off to the quieter environs of the Upper Thames for a few days, although we get dangerously close to Bampton, so there may be mutterings about Morris Dancing.

Pigeons, Kingfishers and Special Forces

Just a smidgeon down the water from Heyford lies Pigeon’s Lock. It’s right out in the boonies, with a couple of houses there a mile or so down an unmade road from the pleasant village of Kirtlington (while a safe distance from any Morris dancers), and a mile or so across the fields from the equally pleasant village of Tackley (where lies a handy railway station).

Chief mate had to nip home for a night so was deputed to do the honours, i.e. walk to Tackley station, go to Heyford to fetch the car, and then return the next day on train and foot laden with all the things we had forgotten when we brought the car up at the weekend.

Just below the lock was a pleasant enough spot to moor for a few nights, but being under the circuit at London Oxford Airport (sic) it’s clear that the commercial flying training bit is still busy: the continuous drone of unsynchronized props on light twin-engine aircraft practising single engine approaches and landings is unmistakeable… BTDTGTTS! Ah what memories.

Add that to one or more large dark green and unmarked helicopters carrying out nap-of-the-earth operations barely above tree level, and thunderstorms bumping around on and off all day, it wasn’t entirely the quietest spot to have a day off.

Mind you, last time I moored near here, back in the late eighties(?), it was the first weekday evening after the clocks went back to GMT, and all the commercial flying instructors were out doing their three “night” circuits and landings to keep their Night Ratings current. Within 20 minutes of official dark there were 21 (yes, I counted them, 21) aircraft airborne in the Kidlington circuit. The poor old Blackbushe air traffic controller used to wet himself if there were five in the circuit, in broad daylight.

Eschewing any flying, a kingfisher chose to moor up for half an hour or more on the boat just up from Song & Dance: lovely to watch through the binoculars, though the photo is handheld through a dirty glass window at long range.

And just to add spice to life, the plan to meet SWMBO at Tackley Station on her return and repair to the local pub for dinner was rather stymied when I rang them to check they were doing food that night. They weren’t. Good job there was nothing in the fridge.

Thunderstorm brewing over Pigeon's LockI see no fish.

Night Visiting Song

In order to let Sir settle down on the boat, at night he not only has access to the Big Wide World via a cat flap and the cratch area at the front, but we normally let him have the run of the boat too. Which means he sometimes ends up asleep curled up at the foot of the bed.

At some awful hour of the night of our return from Sidmouth, there was a sound of Sir seemingly exercising his claws on the floor mat at the rear of the boat,in our bedroom. At the same time there was a gentle growling sound from a lump at the end of the bed. Didn’t know he was stereophonic!

Sure enough, a foreigner… who had not only come in under the cratch cover and through the cat flap, but strolled the entire length of the boat, past Sir’s food bowl without indulging, and right under our bed and out the other side, just to strop his claws.

Words have been had about the policy on guests and friends staying over…

The Heyford–Sidmouth Axis

And so to Heyford. Last time I moored in this area was well before 1994 (when they closed down operations from Upper Heyford airfield). Can remember looking across to the hill and seeing – not to mention hearing – dozens of US Air Force F-111 jet fighters take off in a stream just after breakfast, then come back for lunch. Then off again in the afternoon… it’s much quieter now!

A little further down the canal is Lower Heyford, and Heyford Wharf, which has the merit of being right next to the Oxford – Banbury railway line, with a station 10 feet from the water. Noisy, but convenient for catching trains…

Boat safely tucked up, car retrieved from home, and it’s off for a fortnight’s R&R… home for a day or two to catch up on stuff like doctors and dentists, then off to Sidmouth for nine days on the annual pilgrimage.

It was nice to see Ralph McTell could still fill a 1200 seat marquee and hold everyone spellbound for 90 minutes –  haven’t seen him in concert for over 20 years (and I first booked him to do a gig in Manchester in 1968. Gulp.)

Far too much good music, song, dance, company, food and drink to detail here, but just for balance, here’s a picture of some young Shetland fiddlers, and a not-so-young Shetland fiddler.

South Mainland Young Fiddlers - spot the littl'un!Aly Bain & Phil Cunningham

A Rose by any Other Name

Narrowboats can have pretty much any name you like, and they don’t have to be unique. Kingfisher would appear to be pretty much the favourite: there are dozens of them. Plenty named for the owners along the lines of Fred ’ n’ Ethel, or Emma-Jane, or Lady Sara, too. As a contrast, one of the larger timeshare/hiring outfits had a whole fleet of boats with slightly odd names like Wilson’s Chaos, seemingly named after obscure fairground rides.

There’s also the odd misfit: given the supposed peaceful and relaxing nature of  narrowboating, one wonders at Predator and  Warrior (both seen today), and can only admire the Anglo Welsh hire fleet’s Amerthyst, which is not only misspelt but the wrong colour too. The completely bare interior of Kettle’s On would also suggest it’s misnamed, at least for now. Minnie the Moocher suggests at least one Cab Calloway fan on the cut, and I wish I’d managed to get a picture of Baker Street, complete with the score of the opening bars of that saxophone break.

Others that stick in the mind:

The Vented Spleen
Flying  Pig
(seen a couple of years ago near Market Drayton, then again yesterday)
P45
Rioja Bye Baby
Harold’s Will

Mind you, the (possibly apocryphal) Contains Nuts doesn’t appear on the register at the moment.

1117014812123106DSCF080812123349

Duck Food–Take 2

I know Mallards (especially in the wild) don’t subsist entirely on stale bread, my fingers or hand-outs, although opening the side hatch anywhere pretty soon conjures up a bunch of them demanding food with menaces. And I guess the book does say they’re omnivorous.

Even so, moored up in the jungle on the Oxford Canal between Heyford and Tackley, we were rather surprised to see a Mallard drake paddling along in a stately fashion with head held high, and a sizeable fish in his bill. He kept tossing his head upright in an attempt to align the wriggler with his throat just like a proper-job fish-eating seabird. He got there in the end too! Respect!

Milvus Milvus

Red kites and buzzards are fairly common at home, though we rarely see a kestrel these days (even though when motorways first came into use, they were the bird you saw motoring along them). When travelling North West up the M40 these days, red kites are two-a-penny from the Maidenhead – Marlow – High Wycombe area, then slowly peter out as you get further towards the Midlands, while buzzards become more prevalent.

So, travelling slowly South East from the Potteries, and seeing plenty of buzzards (as well as a dull brown painted boat named Buteo Buteo) , we were idly wondering when and where we would first spot a red kite: we were expecting to see them from Banbury downwards, maybe.

But nature moves in mysterious ways… as we pootled gently into the middle of Banbury, a dark red narrowboat came round a corner, narrowly missing us, and in the excitement of collision avoidance, we nearly failed to notice it was named Red Kite. Spooky!

And as for birds… we did indeed spot a pair of red kites this morning being suitably splendid, at Grants Lock, just South of Banbury. Along with a buzzard surveying a field on the other side of the canal, and a kestrel quietly perching on the telephone lines watching proceedings. All at once. Honour is satisfied!

Flanders, Swan and Pigs

Just down the canal from Adderbury Wharf is a smallholding doubling as a rare breed pig and sheep farm, a camping and caravan site, boat mooring establishment, cafe and shop. They grow their pork, bacon, eggs etc., and even today (when most decent butchers and supermarkets sell fancy flavoured “gourmet” sausages rather than the old Wall’s sawdust jobbies) it’s easy to forget how good simple pork bangers can be with really good local ingredients. Superb bacon butties, and several evening meals to follow. Don’t normally do advertising, but take a bow, The Pig Place!

Moored at the Pig FarmDSCF0783Pig-a-potamus

Duck Food

With the local wildlife on its second or even third brood, large family groups of mallards, swans and moorhens are common, they often follow the boat, while opening up the side-hatch is usually the prompt for a bunch to appear out of nowhere demanding food, more in hope than expectation.

While SWMBO was driving along the Grand Union this morning, I was sitting quietly in the front deck area in the hot sunshine, and without thinking draped my arm over the side. This was too much temptation for a passing/following mallard who, mistaking my middle finger for her morning croissant, did her best to swallow it. Don’t know who was more surprised…

Savaged to death by a lady duck: not the epitaph I had in mind.