Yearly Archives: 2016

Hot Feet at Slimbridge

Peter Scott started what became the Slimbridge Wetland Centre at his home. Like Topsy, it grew, and the WWT is now a major conservation organisation. We – that is Biggles’ staff – had been meaning to visit for years but never quite got around to it. One of the reasons for travelling the length of the G&S Canal was that it passes within half a mile of the entrance.

Leaving our pleasant hidey-hole at Frampton on the Wednesday morning, we soon made our way through the delightfully named Splatt Bridge, and found somewhere to park at Slimbridge. And after evaluating the entrance fee, we joined the WWT, as it would be cheaper than to pay again on our way back. We’ll have to come back now!

The first thing we learnt, eating a sandwich at the outdoor seating by the café, is that the flamingo enclosures are smelly enough to put you off your food. They’ve all the flavours of flamingo at Slimbridge, and they all smell just as bad. Not sure if it’s the birds or the stuff they’re fed on. Can’t think why they put them next to the café!

FlamingosFlamingo

Colour Coordination

Anyway, it was pretty hot, and it turned out that Fran’s outfit was inadvertently colour coordinated with the flamingos, although she did smell a lot better.

Also by the café seating was a young lady peering intently into a large telescope aimed at the flamingos, dressed in T-shirt, jeans and huge wool-lined Ugg boots, plugged into her iPod, and occasionally making a note on a clipboard. Bet she doesn’t get cold feet, I remarked to SWMBO.

Nene Goose (Hawaian Goose)Bewick Swan

Peter Scott was very taken by the nēnē, aka the Hawaiian Goose, which is the world’s rarest, and had virtually died out until Peter Scott started breeding them in captivity; they have subsequently been successfully reintroduced. Meanwhile, they’re certainly not rare in Slimbridge – they get under foot everywhere. The other WWT icon is the splendid Bewick Swan – every beak pattern is unique and can be used to identify the birds. Loads arrive for the winter, but this one is a captive resident.

Shelduck ChickMoorhen Chick

Springtime, so chicks aplenty! Shelduck and Moorhen chicks reporting for duty.

Spot the Goose

Spot the goose.

Common Cranes

Following years of breeding Common Cranes at Slimbridge and attempting to reintroducing them into the Somerset Levels, several now return voluntarily to Slimbridge during the summer. There was great excitement because one pair (not the ones above) had actually built a nest on one of the islands, and hatched a chick just a few days before we visited. They were polite enough to do this just a few yards from one of the hides, so everyone was sneaking off to grab a look. The chick is a bright ginger colour, and has been christened – with great inventiveness – Ginger. Some chicks get all the luck.

Anyway, several hours later, as we undertook a farewell cup of tea at the café, the young lady with the big telescope was still there, peering intently at the flamingos and listening to music. There were a lot more notes on her clipboard. And she’d taken her boots and socks off…

Frampton-upon-Severn

The first officer uses a flight planning program to work out how long it takes to get anywhere, but we were progressing down the Gloucester & Sharpness canal much more quickly than expected. Subsequent investigation showed it was allowing 20 minutes for each swing bridge, when in fact the keeper usually had it open by the time Song & Dance reached it, causing no delay whatsoever.

Frampton-upon-Severn looked interesting: a small linear village strung out along the “largest village green in the country”, with a swing bridge and moorings at each end, but the towpath on the side away from the village. Having failed to find anywhere suitable at the first bridge, and fearing for our chances at the other end, halfway down we came across a sneaky little clearing on the village side that looked ideal: someone else was there before us, and it appeared to have footpath access to the village through the fields. And so it proved.

Frampton SwansFrampton Swans

We were immediately visited by a swan family demanding food with menaces. The ducks kept a safe distance.

Frampton SwansFrampton Mooring

The Captain made his views on the chief cook’s priorities quite plain.

Path to FramptonPath to Frampton

And there was a delightful path through the woods and fields to the village.

Frampton-upon-SevernFrampton-upon-Severn

The village green was indeed large, and there were some interesting and varied styles of houses.

Frampton-upon-SevernA Rose by any Other Name

Frampton-upon-SevernFrampton-upon-Severn

We were slightly puzzled by this lychgate on the side of a large field rather than a churchyard, but subsequently discovered that there was a church at the far end of the path, out of sight, several hundred yards away.

Frampton-upon-Severn

And wandering back after a bite to eat, the chief bird spotter spotted a linnet, which made her day.

Standing at the Crossroads

After the delights of a Gloucester Monday morning and lunch, the Captain decided he wanted to get out of town for somewhere more rural, so later that afternoon we cast off for pastures new.

The Gloucester & Sharpness canal is unusual: once one that too significant commercial shipping, it is wide and almost river-like in feel, but the sides are normally piled, and there’s a towpath, and you can moor up rather more freely. There are no locks, but loads of low swing bridges, each of which – at the moment – is manned by a bridge-keeper. But there’s mutterings about automation…

Once out of the industrial bit we found a pleasant spot for the night, and were rewarded by a sunny Tuesday morning.

G&S CanalG&S Canal

Setting off late morning, we passed this abandoned barge, complete with resident swan on the nest, and were soon mooring up at Saul Junction for lunch.

G&S Canal: Abandoned Barge

Saul Junction is a unique spot on the British canals: it’s the only place were two canals cross at a genuine “crossroads”. The Stroudwater Canal starts in Stroud (where it joins the Thames & Severn Canal), and crosses the G&S at Saul just before dropping down to the River Severn. The Canal & River Trust are talking about restoring the lock just visible in the second photo, because it will look pretty, although entirely useless to boaters: restoring any further is a bit pointless as no one in their right minds would nowadays want to go down onto the tidal Severn there.

G&S Canal: Saul JunctionG&S Canal: Saul Junction

Meanwhile, the Cotswold Canal Trust are trying to restore the Stroudwater Canal and make it navigable to Stroud initially (currently only about half a mile is navigable), and eventually restore the Thames & Severn all the way to Lechlade-on-Thames. That would make a huge difference to boating in the South West, but will probably only take a couple of centuries to achieve… We won’t hold our breath!

Saul BoatyardSaul Boatyard

You don’t often see RNLI lifeboats on a canal, or seemingly top-heavy pirate ships either. Don’t know what either was doing there, but with access for big boats at Sharpness, the boatyard here clearly had more than narrowboats and tupperware jobs to manage.

Just a-walking the dog...

First time we’ve seen anyone actually taking a dog for a swim…

Saul SwanSaul Swan

And walking back to the boat after lunch we were delayed by a tow-path hog who was disinclined to let anyone pass.

Harry Potter and More Ceilings

Monday morning, and it’s off to the Harry Potter Theme Park, aka Gloucester Cathedral. And very impressive it is too. Although with all the abbeys, priorys and churches on this journey of two rivers, one can’t help but be reminded of the newly-wed bride, who – when asked what she wanted to see on her honeymoon – said simply “ceilings!”

Gloucester CathedralGloucester Cathedral

It’s apparently a local joke that if you ask the whereabouts of someone in Gloucester, the reply always includes “you can see the cathedral from here”; and indeed you can glimpse the tower from almost anywhere, but getting a decent overview of the outside is nigh-on impossible.

It rapidly became clear that a quick whizz around wasn’t really going to suffice, so we did just that, BUT determined to come back and get a proper guided tour when we returned back this way after going down to Sharpness.

Gloucester Cathedral - West WindowGloucester Cathedral - SIde Chapel

The impressive West window is popular with tourists because it’s nice and bright (because it’s Victorian), and there’s some lovely modern glass in a side chapel. The columns just visible in in the right of the West window picture are all different, and relate to different periods of construction. The crowning glory is the mediaeval East window, but not easy to photograph on this day of clouds and sunshine. We’ll have another go in a week or so,

Gloucester CathedralGloucester Cathedral

The Lady Chapel is much more modern, with an interesting side-line in garish tombs and wordy inscriptions. The one for the impressively named Sir Joseph Onesiphorus Paul Bt. was fascinating – clearly an early prison reformer.

Gloucester Cathedral - CloistersGloucester Cathedral - CloistersGloucester Cathedral - Where's Harry

The cloisters are just stunning – although familiar to anyone who’s seen the Harry Potter movies. The reminder for the Fifth Form seemed the icing on the cake. Speaking of which, noshing in the cafe we fell into conversation with a lady from Holland, who was touring with her husband and – presumably Potter mad – daughter. They’d come over on the overnight ferry to Newcastle and driven up to do Edinburgh; the next day they’d driven down to a B&B in Oxford; today, having driven to Gloucester and done the cathedral in the morning/lunchtime, they were off to do Laycock Abbey then Stonehenge before returning to Oxford that evening. Made us tired just to even think of it!

Gloucester Cathedral

Just off the cloisters was this place: no obvious indication of it’s purpose. Perhaps a giant communal wash-hand basin. If anyone knows…

Gloucester Cathedral - Tomb of EII

And a confession (appropriate in a place of worship) – the photos or the photographer got mixed up, and this one is the real tomb of Edward II, not the one photographed in Tewkesbury Abbey last week! Mea culpa!

HOGs for Lunch, Gloucester Old Spot for Dinner

It was warm and sunny, we’d been invited out for a late Sunday lunch cum early dinner of roast Gloucester Old Spot, so a mornings mooch around the docks seemed the best bet.

Harley Davidson meetMod & Rockers

As we walked across Llanthony Bridge, there was a long roaring roll of thunder in a cloudless sky; turning the corner we found the Birmingham chapter of the Harley Owners Group on a day out. We felt sorry for the solitary Mod if things turned into a bank-holiday dust-up, but none of the H.O.G.s looked under 65, so he might have been OK.

Barge ArmDredger, Barge Arm, Gloucester Docks

The Barge Arm was where we’d had tea at the narrowboat, but the impressive looking Waterways Museum was closed for refurbishment.

Mariner's ChapelLittle and Large

Just around the corner, CaRT were running trips in an old Dunkirk Little Ship (and for the avoidance of doubt, that’s the bigger one in the picture).

Gloucester LockGloucester Lock

The lock itself is indeed pretty big (particularly when you’re at the bottom, with no way off the boat)…

Visitor MooringsGloucester Dock

… and the visitor moorings close to the action, but obviously not to Sir’s liking on a Saturday night!

And with good food, drink, and most important, company later on, a pretty good way to spend a day…

Lighthouse for Sale

The visitor moorings in Gloucester Docks just by the Severn lock are superbly situated if you want to be close to the noise and hubbub of the waterside bars and restaurants (shades of Gas Street Basin in Brum), but not really suitable for a humiliated Skipper who liked a certain amount of privacy and space to wander and dig. So once tea and buns were over we headed out of the central dock area through Llanthony Bridge to somewhere more cat friendly.

Llanthony BridgeAcross from Llanthony Bridge mooring

The docks refurbishment hadn’t quite got this far so the breakfast room view left a little to be desired, but on the mooring side was a large area of cleared ground, which suited Sir just fine.

High Orchard Bridge

We were tucked in nicely behind the lightship Sula which used to be an alternative therapy centre but is up for sale. We were quite tempted, but thought getting it to Cropredy Marina for the winter might be a challenge too far…

SulaDSCF4301

Anyway, the mooring proved eminently suitable, 100 yards from a 24hr Sainsburys one way, 200 yards from the attractions of the docks the other, and – at night – even a little picturesque.

High Orchard BridgeSula

Gloucester Here We Come

Saturday morning dawned bright and gloomy, and we set off, starting with locking down through Avon Lock onto the Avon link, then a left turn onto the River Severn proper. Very shortly we came to Upper Lode Lock, below which the river is sometimes tidal (at high Spring Tides), and hence bad news for little boats. There was to be a Spring Tide on the Sunday  morning, so we really needed to get tucked up in Gloucester before then.

Upper Lode Lock is ENORMOUS. Safely descended, the far gates were opened, and Song & Dance was fully up to deep river cruising speed before we even reached them. And there’s also a wide pool at that end fully big enough to wind/turn a 58ft narrowboat round or moor a flotilla of sailing yachts.

Just down the Severn from Upper Lode, you come across the premises of the Avon Sailing Club, but that’s all right as the Severn Sailing Club is situated near Bredon, about 6 miles up the Avon from Tewkesbury. Must be something in the water.

Making good time we stopped at The Boat Inn at Ashleworth for lunch and a short wander. Although the village itself is a way off, just behind the pub is a fine collection of 15C buildings huddled together: a manor house, church and tithe barn.

AshleworthAshleworth Tithe Barn

Ashleworth Tithe BarnAshleworth Tithe Barn

This barn is still seemingly used for storing useful things like dead sinks, but at least there was little in the way of guano underfoot. More impressive were the giant “half doors”. Don’t know about lifting one off so you can clog dance – these are big enough to hold a small ceilidh on! An instant hernia at the mere thought.

Ashleworth ChurchAshleworth StyleAshleworth Church

The church had an unusual – but probably not 15C – stile, and their bell ropes matched the chief cook’s fancy mooring warps, so if we need some more we know where to come.

Old Spots

And just around the corner were some Gloucestershire Old Spots – an early inspiration for several other Morris sides and the Morris movement in general – one even looks suspiciously like Ken Langsbury…

During the pub lunch break, the Captain had braved the open weave pontoons for a good rummage around in the bankside weeds and woods. Needing to get going, and after watching him seemingly sitting quietly in a chunk of long grass for some while with no sign of wishing to go boating again, the navigator picked him up as per normal. Only to find him in mid wee. After a wash, and a clean shirt, we set off with a very grumpy Skipper muttering to himself.

We’d been warned about the approach into Gloucester Lock, which takes you up from the River Severn into Gloucester Docks: it was as interesting as promised, and we were glad of the detailed briefing; even gladder there wasn’t actually much flow on the Severn that afternoon, or it could have easily become exciting – something we try and avoid.

With us as the only occupants, the lockkeeper filled the large lock very slowly, and before we’d made it all the way up to the busy bedlam that is Gloucester Docks on a sunny weekend afternoon, our friends Moira, Graham and family were peering over the edge and forming a welcoming party. We’d seen them all several times in passing last weekend at Chippenham, but never got a chance to chat, so tea and buns at the narrowboat cafe rapidly ensued.

All in all, we’ve had worse days, even if the Captain was still sulking, and The Guv’nor was nowhere in sight.

Bredon At Last-Take 2: Optical Illusions and Guano

A sunny Friday morning – and as the car needed taking home – the Captain allowed us to use it to drive the 3 miles or so to Bredon, to see what we’d missed when passing by boat a week or so ago.

Singing Kettle, Tewkesbury MarinaWalking from our mooring by the lock back to the marina to collect the car, we discovered what had happened to our chums Cilla and Artie’s now retired/redundant collection of tea making equipment – they’ve turned it into a narrowboat. Unless they’re starting a new, small scale, floating show, like the Mikron Theatre lot, who we haven’t seen anything of this season so far.

Bredon turned out to be a very pretty, and pretty much unspoilt, village with an interesting parish church, an old pub that does food, and a National Trust Tithe Barn so famous they don’t even bother to list it in their membership book. Unfortunately the village is disturbingly close to the M5.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The church’s steeple is visible from far and wide, but the first surprise is the flooring. Fancy knotwork heating grids, and optical illusion tiling isn’t the usual parish church fare.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The totally OTT marble tomb seemed out of place, but the stained glass was lovely.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Just down from the churchyard was a fine tithe barn, for storing the local “taxes”: these days it’s seemingly mainly used as an enormous dovecot. We wonder if they harvest the significant quantities of guano flooring.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Walking back, the cook noticed this lovely – if somewhat out of character – cottage and gardens, and decided that it would be nice place to retire to…

Bredon Cottage

After lunch at the pub, the cook was dropped back at the boat, and the car returned to home.

Memo to self 1: don’t try driving from Tewkesbury down the M5/M4 and returning via an Oxford bound train on a Friday afternoon at the end of half-term holidays.

Memo to self 2: don’t believe the bus timetables and signs for the Ashchurch for Tewkesbury to Tewkesbury “rail link” (sic). It’s complete figment of someone’s imagination.

Still, we hope the weather holds: it’s time to go boating again.

An Abbey a Day…

Making a mental note to check why the River Avon has so many abbeys close together (Evesham, Pershore, Tewkesbury): an Abbey a Day keeps something at bay. And whether you’re deeply religious, an atheist, or a even a committed Pastafarian, there’s  something undeniably awe inspiring about these old religious sites and buildings from Stonehenge and Callanish onwards, and the faith of the people who built them without the aid of modern day cranes and cherry pickers.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey fledgeling

Well surrounded, it’s not altogether easy to get a decent outside shot of the Abbey, although the fledgling blackbird (taken from the same spot) clearly had an unusual “bird’s eye view”.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

The vaulted and decorated ceilings are quite astonishing, as is the stained glass.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey: Running Repairs

And the almost filigree stone work on some of the tombs and side chapels does make you wonder, even if it clearly needs a lot of attention. The one on the left is apparently the grave of Edward II (the king, not the folk/reggae/rock band that our mate Simon played in).

Tewkesbury and the Two-Hanky Poppadum

We were rather taken with Tewkesbury, and on our return from Chippenham/home had resolved to explore further and visit the Abbey. There seem to be lot of Abbeys on the Avon for some reason.

Anyway after driving back with a car load of clean clothes, and with the Captain safely reinstalled in his Captain’s chair on the boat, we set off for a quick curry. Most curry houses these days have “Chef’s Specials” or “House Recommendations” above and beyond the bog-standard standard CTM/Biryani/Bhuna/Madras/whatever concoctions, and if one goes off-piste on the menu, one occasionally comes across a dish rather hotter (or sometimes less hot) than expected. We can safely say that at Panache we came across our first two-hanky poppadum.  Ordering the standard “two plain, two spicy” to nibble while we cogitated, halfway through the first spicy one we were already wondering if we had enough napery to make it through to dinner proper. The food was indeed excellent and memorable.

But enough of runny noses: some pictures of a wander around Tewkesbury in some pleasant warm sunshine on the Thursday morning…

Tewkesbury DoorwayTewkesburyTewkesbury Doorway

Some doorways and cottages on main street.

Old Baptist Chapel CourtOld Baptist Chapel CourtOld Baptist Chapel Graveyard

This ginnel led to an Old Baptist Chapel complete with graveyard looking out over the Ham lands, lying between the River Avon and the River Severn…

Graveyard CatOld Baptist Chapel Court

… and it came complete with a snoozing Old Baptist Chapel Court Cat.

Sluice Cottages, TewkesburySluice Cottages, Tewkesbury

The Ham, TewkesburyThe Ham, Tewkesbury

These cottages at the “end” of the Avon navigation – where a big sluice drops the water down to the Severn level – have a lovely view of the Ham, definitely the largest wild-flower meadow we’ve seen this trip!

Fran and Tewkesbury CatTewkesbury

Tewkesbury

Some more old buildings (and another cat) – and we haven’t even been round the Abbey yet.