Category Archives: Art

Bredon At Last-Take 2: Optical Illusions and Guano

A sunny Friday morning – and as the car needed taking home – the Captain allowed us to use it to drive the 3 miles or so to Bredon, to see what we’d missed when passing by boat a week or so ago.

Singing Kettle, Tewkesbury MarinaWalking from our mooring by the lock back to the marina to collect the car, we discovered what had happened to our chums Cilla and Artie’s now retired/redundant collection of tea making equipment – they’ve turned it into a narrowboat. Unless they’re starting a new, small scale, floating show, like the Mikron Theatre lot, who we haven’t seen anything of this season so far.

Bredon turned out to be a very pretty, and pretty much unspoilt, village with an interesting parish church, an old pub that does food, and a National Trust Tithe Barn so famous they don’t even bother to list it in their membership book. Unfortunately the village is disturbingly close to the M5.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The church’s steeple is visible from far and wide, but the first surprise is the flooring. Fancy knotwork heating grids, and optical illusion tiling isn’t the usual parish church fare.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The totally OTT marble tomb seemed out of place, but the stained glass was lovely.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Just down from the churchyard was a fine tithe barn, for storing the local “taxes”: these days it’s seemingly mainly used as an enormous dovecot. We wonder if they harvest the significant quantities of guano flooring.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Walking back, the cook noticed this lovely – if somewhat out of character – cottage and gardens, and decided that it would be nice place to retire to…

Bredon Cottage

After lunch at the pub, the cook was dropped back at the boat, and the car returned to home.

Memo to self 1: don’t try driving from Tewkesbury down the M5/M4 and returning via an Oxford bound train on a Friday afternoon at the end of half-term holidays.

Memo to self 2: don’t believe the bus timetables and signs for the Ashchurch for Tewkesbury to Tewkesbury “rail link” (sic). It’s complete figment of someone’s imagination.

Still, we hope the weather holds: it’s time to go boating again.

An Abbey a Day…

Making a mental note to check why the River Avon has so many abbeys close together (Evesham, Pershore, Tewkesbury): an Abbey a Day keeps something at bay. And whether you’re deeply religious, an atheist, or a even a committed Pastafarian, there’s  something undeniably awe inspiring about these old religious sites and buildings from Stonehenge and Callanish onwards, and the faith of the people who built them without the aid of modern day cranes and cherry pickers.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey fledgeling

Well surrounded, it’s not altogether easy to get a decent outside shot of the Abbey, although the fledgling blackbird (taken from the same spot) clearly had an unusual “bird’s eye view”.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

The vaulted and decorated ceilings are quite astonishing, as is the stained glass.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey: Running Repairs

And the almost filigree stone work on some of the tombs and side chapels does make you wonder, even if it clearly needs a lot of attention. The one on the left is apparently the grave of Edward II (the king, not the folk/reggae/rock band that our mate Simon played in).

Ying Tong Diddle I Po…

Evesham on a Saturday morning seemed a bit down cast or down at heel compared to some of the towns we have passed through. It seemed pretty much that way on the Friday night too. We were also slightly intrigued by the restrictions where we were moored: fishing was only allowed if you were (a) handicapped or (b) under 16, and (c) had a permit from the council.

Might have had something to do with a conversation we’d had with a fisherman back on the Grand Union. On seeing him extract a largish fish from the canal, disentangle it and put it back, we gathered he’d found it increasingly difficult to catch anything, as angling is seemingly popular amongst the Eastern European/Polish immigrant community, and they apparently “fish for the pot” and don’t put anything back. Not sure I’d want to eat a fish that had been filtering grubby canal water all its life, but each to their own.

We’d certainly seen lots of Polish anglers everywhere we’d been, and have observed that they also feed the swans and ducks with industrial quantities of bread. Saw a chap at Evesham feeding a pair of swans with a whole white sliced loaf in one go. Perhaps this is the reason for the darkly muttered stories of them taking swans and Canada geese for the pot too. Who knows – bet the Daily Mail knows the truth!

Evesham Abbey Bell TowerEvesham Abbey locationEvesham parish church

Evesham Abbey is no more: the stones in the middle picture mark out its position, and if you click on the photo you can just about see Song & Dance down in the distance. The Abbey site is still interesting though, with the bell tower sitting neatly between two ancient parish churches – both still in use. One of them had some remarkably fine fan vault decorations.

NatWest Bank, Evesham

The centre of Evesham has some half-timbered establishments like the NatWest bank, but one way or another we didn’t feel a great urge to linger after we’d done the shopping.

Tiddle Widdle Island, Wyre Piddle

Heading on down to Pershore, one passes along the edge of the quaintly named village Wyre Piddle. On the opposite bank is an overgrown bit of land apparently called Tiddle Widdle Island, according to the Ordnance Survey. Paging Harry Secombe…

Tilting at Windmills

She Who Must etc. decreed that we really ought to take in something at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre as it was so close. So in addition to a wander around the new(ish) viewing tower they’ve built, we booked ourselves into the smaller Swan Theatre to see Don Quixote. The main theatre was putting on Cymbeline, which is (a) very long, (b) rarely performed – possibly for a good reason, and (c) they’d modernised it by changing the gender of the lead character and all that sort of trendy stuff. All in all Don Quixote seemed a better bet.

Tramway Bridge & Clopton BridgeBancroft Basin

Rain heading in from WorcestershireStratford-upon-Avon

From the top of the theatre tower, there are fine views over the surrounding countryside and town: in the Top-Right picture you can just see the tail end of Song & Dance between the two trees.

Shakespearian Morris Dancer Costume

In the foyer, there was a display of costumes from various plays. There was even one for someone playing the part of an ancient morris dancer. Deciding which is which in the picture above is left as an exercise for the reader…

And, as it turned out, Don Quixote did prove most enjoyable: a slightly bizarre melange of serious theatre in the round, a musical, a mummers play and improv comedy, it kept everyone thoroughly entertained from start to finish.

However – even though there were always spare pontoon moorings – we’d overstayed our welcome at the basin, and needed to be moving on from the delights of Stratford. The River Avon and Tewkesbury beckon.

Aqueducts and Arden

Saturday morning, and as Anglo Welsh didn’t want to sell us any diesel, we left their basin via the Wooton Wawen aqueduct, which unusually has a lowered towpath, like a couple of others on the Stratford Canal. “Why don’t you go ahead and take some low-level pictures of Song & Dance crossing the aqueduct…” said the chief cook.

 Aqueduct, Wootton Wawen BasinAqueduct, Wootton Wawen BasinAqueduct, Wootton Wawen Basin

A nod’s as good as a wink to a blind something-or-other, but just as the money shot was coming up, a certain Captain of our acquaintance announced that he’d left his reading classes behind, and was going back to fetch them. So we had to reverse out and moor back up again while he sorted himself out. The moment had gone.

Edgestone AquaductEdgestone Aquaduct

A little later comes Edstone Aqueduct: a much more serious affair if not quite in the Pontcysyllte league. Edstone’s the longest aqueduct in England, and the helmsman stood firmly to port and bravely gritted her teeth avoiding looking at the vertiginous drop to starboard.

Edgestone AquaductEdgestone Aquaduct

Mooring up at Wilmcote, we headed into the village for provisions. Mary Arden’s Cottage on the way to the shop has always been firmly on the Shakespeare Heritage Trail, but it seems to have metamorphosed into “Mary Arden’s Working Tudor Farm” and become a small theme park in its own right. Not wishing to stump up the extortionate fee to wander round, we retired to The Masons Arms for a proper pub lunch.

Mary Arden's Farm, WilmcoteMary Arden's Farm, Wilmcote

The cottage itself still looks splendid from the road, for cheapskates like us.

Mary Arden's Cottage, WilmcoteMary Arden's Cottage, Wilmcote

Mary Arden's Cottage, Wilmcote

Suitably refreshed culturally and alcoholically, we re-joined the Captain and continued down the Wilmcote flight of locks, which end just outside Stratford-upon-Avon, and moored up at the bottom. We’re slowly getting better at guessing whether Sir likes a mooring spot or not (and it isn’t always obvious), and he seemed most content with this spot, despite being close to a major road.

Nearly Lost in Lowsonford

Leaving Biggles and the chief cook on the boat at Kingswood Junction, a Sunday afternoon train fiasco got the First Officer home eventually; the deluge back at home was fortunately not so bad ‘oop North. Returning on Tuesday afternoon too late to cruise far, and with all options requiring a serious lock flight, we did the obvious thing: retire to The Navigation for dinner.

We’d decided to head down to Stratford-upon-Avon, and made a loose date at a boatyard on the outskirts for a night’s mooring with an electrical hookup, so we could do some much needed washing. But they didn’t want us to arrive on Friday or Saturday (hire boat turnaround days), so it looked like a slow cruise down the pleasant South Stratford Canal.

Navigation on the canals isn’t normally all that hard, but Kingswood Junction is – as far as canals go – a complicated affair. The Grand Union Canal and the Stratford Canal both run approximately North/South, and at Lapworth they come within a few yards of each other, and Kingswood Junction joins them together like the cross-bar of an H, so even that shouldn’t be too hard. Hence we were somewhat bemused after locking down quite a long flight of locks, to notice we were passing through Bridge 19. (Pretty much all the bridges are numbered, and wear their badge with pride: it’s how you know where you are!) This revelation gave the Captain a nasty shock, as we shouldn’t have been anywhere near a bridge 19. Much looking at the maps and scratching of heads, and we decided to continue on through the bridge, where we discovered that we were where we thought were: some hero had attached the upstream number plate upside down. Another small drama resolved…

Fleur de Lys, LowsonfordFleur de Lys, Lowsonford

Mooring up just short of Lowsonford Lock, opposite the Fleur de Lys pub, Thursday morning was memorably sunny and warm. Lowsonford has one of those aforementioned barrel-vaulted roof lockkeepers/lengthsmans cottages: this one is relatively intact, and you can rent it from The Landmark Trust should you feel inclined.

Lowsonford Lockkeepers Cottage

The Landmark Trust got Anthony Gormley to knock up some commemorative statues for them: this chap’s been peering into Lowsonford Lock for the last year, and is due to to be taken away in a day or two: a shame, as he looks rather fine where he is.

Lowsonford Land StatueLowsonford Land Statue

BIggles insisted on taking pictures of the crew posing with the metal chap.

Lowsonford Land StatueLowsonford Land Statue

Pottering on down the Stratford Canal in glorious sunshine, we were somewhat bemused by one lockkeeper’s cottage solution to people peering in their window: one way mirror glass. Shades of interrogation rooms on the TV.

One Way Mirror

A feature of the Stratford Canal are the narrow bridges (no towpath through the bridge – it goes around the outside) with two cantilevered bits nearly meeting: you can walk Dobbin round the bridge and drop the rope through without unhitching. Actually most of the gaps have closed or been blocked up, (Elfin Safety?) but this one near our eventual overnight stop at Preston Bagot is still intact. And the bridge has its number plate on the right way up too.

Stratford Canal Bridge

And if we nearly got lost in Lowsonford, we did get lost in Preston Bagot. Mooring about a mile down from the main road, we struck out across the fields (public footpath, the map said) for a meal at The Crabmill. Let’s just say that after a memorable meal, we took the “long” way back to the boat, along the road and towpath…

Gerard Manley Hopkins, and a would-be Affair

It was proving to be an eventful Sunday… the weather was holding fair so we decided to potter on from Fotheringhay to some recommended moorings just above Elton lock, spying several Kingfishers on our way. There seemed to be plenty of Red Kites and Buzzards around. And several times

[We] caught this morning morning’s minion, king-
dom of daylight’s dauphin, dapple-dawn-drawn Falcon, in his riding
Of the rolling level underneath him steady air, and striding

although the air was anything but steady, but it didn’t seem to cause them any problems. We’ve rarely seen Kestrels while on the boat, apart from the last few days. They’re always lovely and spectacular to watch. Spotted a Sparrowhawk too.

The moorings at Elton lock proved perfect, and closeness to the village suggested a quick walk for some suitable refreshment and a shared packet of crisps before returning to the boat for a rather late lunch.

Crown Inn, Elton

Losing brownie points for not having draught Guinness for him or a dry cider without fruit-salad flavourings for her, The Crown Inn – officially only serving Sunday Lunches – won them back by happily conjuring up a splendidly cooked and large bowl of cheesy chips. There goes the diet again.

Completely unlike the rather artificial Ashton, Elton is clearly a real village with character, even if Stocks Green no longer has the stocks that are still there according to the 2012 updated river guide we had. Seems they disappeared well over 25 years ago…

Elton VillageElton

EltonElton

And, not at all perturbed by the Ashley Madison farrago, Fran was all set, there and then, to embark on a serious affair with a young brindled Great Dane found attached to a local gentleman.

Young Brindled Great DaneYoung Brindled Great Dane

Her previous experiences of Great Dane ownership don’t seem to have put her off, but I shudder to think what the Captain would think. Fortunately, the promised rain arrived on queue, and we had to beat it back to the boat before things got seriously out of hand.

Sunset - Elton Lock 

And just in time for a nice sunset, the weather front cleared through. A fitting end to a long and interesting day – over 12 miles, 5 locks and a wet water stop before a late lunch is something of a record for the Song & Dance captain and crew. Could get to like this life…

Marlow Meanderings and Cookham Culture

Just next to our mooring near Marlow Bridge one of the big boating outfits was advertising 45 minute round trips to Temple Lock and back. Some newly moved friends had taken an evening off from sorting stuff to come down and join our merry crew for dinner: the cook decided there was time for a quick pre-prandial cruise, so we headed off to Temple Lock before coming back to our original mooring. Even managed to use the same holes for the mooring spikes. The big boys always always look as though they’re breaking the 8kph speed limit, but our little cruise took 45 minutes. Well there you go…

Feeding time at MarlowHappy Chance again

Mooring near a posh town centre, pros: freshly baked croissants for breakfast; cons: the locals tend to demand their breakfast with menaces.

Cookham Church

On the advice of the local lock-keeper regarding amenable moorings, Sunday morning saw a gentle wander in increasingly splendid weather down to the picture book village of Cookham, which was pretty but mobbed. A visit to the Stanley Spencer Gallery seemed to be compulsory, and they had some significant extra paintings from other UK collections. He might be a much lauded local and national hero, but I’m afraid that the views of Biggles and his crew were rather more mixed, though we suspect Christ preaching at Cookham Regatta would have hit the spot had he finished it.

Less impressive was the local water bailiff, who came to collect the mooring fee accompanied by husband and three unruly dogs all off the lead, one of which tried to jump in via the side hatch to say “hello” to the Captain. The Captain was not  impressed. Telling someone after the event that “Oh don’t worry, he likes cats…” only adds insult to injury. Why do people with dogs just assume that everyone else takes delight in their dogs bounding up to them and jumping/barking/slobbering at them. Stiff letter to council required.

Heading for Reading

With a promise of some engineering attention from Piper Boats at the end of the week, it was time to set sail for the delights of Reading. When we left Abingdon, we had spotted the steam barge Magic Dragon moored up at the chandlery, and it reminded us of some nice, cat-friendly moorings at Beale Park, where we spotted her last September, so headed off for there.

Stopping in Goring/Streatley for lunch, the size of the weir provides a salutary reminder that the river is getting bigger and bigger. And as per our last visit the Goring Art Gallery had some works with folkie connections, in this instance Caroline Ritson, better known to us as a member of the ceilidh band The Geckoes and (long long ago) the infamous Jumpleads.

Goring LockThe Swan, StreatleyStreatley Common

The Captain pronounced satisfaction on our arrival at the Beale Park moorings.

Sir surveying the mooring pinsAnyone home?

The photogenic cottage in the woods across the river had clearly decided on a variation of the three china ducks flying up the living room wall.

In a Cottage, In a Wood...Three ducks

And as well as being a nice place to moor up, the Inland Waterways Association Festival at Beale Park some years ago was the first time we came across Piper Boats and their Dutch Barges, while Fran has fond memories of childhood visits to the wildlife park with her grandparents. Mind you, back then they had hundreds of peacocks, which wouldn’t have exactly made for a quiet mooring spot.

Portrait Painting

On a day off from cat-chauffering, wandering round Balliol dining room (as you do)…

Balliol Dining Hall

… we couldn’t help but notice a couple of pictures on the wall.

Andrew Graham by Robbie WraithDSCF1493

Steve Shirley by Saied DaiDSCF1495 

Fran & Biggles bought me a lovely Robbie Wraith drawing for my birthday a couple of years ago, and our friends Nick & Linda splashed out on a Saied Dai oil portrait about the same time, Both came from our artistic “advisor” and friend Alan Kluckow.

Think I met Steve Shirley once, back when she was setting up the F International or FI Consultancy or whatever. Certainly, my boss around then, Hilary Cropper, decamped shortly thereafter then to run FI for her (and I see went on to become probably the best paid business woman in the UK).