Category Archives: General

Led Zep, Rolf Harris and the other “Big One”

Narrowboat wanderers will speak of the Tardebigge Flight and the Caen Hill Flight of locks in hushed terms, as places to sort out the chaps for the lesser chaps. Hatton Locks is perhaps less well known, but its 21 broad locks climbing nearly 150 feet in 2 miles place them firmly in the same category. The old commercial bargees used to call them “The Stairway to Heaven”, but unfortunately we didn’t have either Led Zeppelin or Rolf Harris’ version to play while we worked. Actually, having been descending steadily since Napton, the chief navigator was initially rather thrown to find that the Hatton Flight went all the way back up again.

The weather stayed pleasant warm and sunny, and so teaming up with another boat (thank heavens) we got stuck in, and apart from a brief lunch stop in a handy longer pound, there wasn’t time to take photos; even Sir behaved by staying on board all the way rather than disappearing off into the greenery.

Hatton Locks: lunch stopHatton Locks: lunch stop

Finally passing through the top lock in the late afternoon sunlight, the welcoming committee showed us to some suitable moorings at the top of the flight.

Ahh....Hatton Top Lock

Later, a pleasant walk back down a few locks brought us to the CaRT Maintenance Yard, a large metal damselfly, and – more importantly – a splendid dinner at The Hatton Arms to round off a rewarding if tiring day.

Hatton Locks & Maintenance WharfBig Damselfly

Nice Tree

Warwick as Well

As if lunch in Leamington wasn’t enough, Kate Boats was so close to the centre of Warwick that it seemed churlish not to avail ourselves of a wander and dinner. We know Warwick reasonably well from past folk festivals, so the camera was left on the boat. But for those suffering from Warwick Withdrawal Symptoms, here’s a few that were prepared earlier (circa 2012 if memory serves).

Jackstraws processing: dinner this trip was taken in the half-timbered establishment at top-right, if anyone’s remotely interested.

Jackstraws Morris - WarwickJackstraws Morris: Warwick

As a break from Morris Dancers here are a couple of memorable other teams letting it all hang out in the dance procession.

Warwick Folk Festival processionWarwick Folk Festival: Belly Dancer Morris

Despite the best efforts of Jackstraws dancing in the castle, the walls didn’t come tumbling down.

Jackstraws Morris: Warwick CastleWarwick Castle

And all this picture needs is Chris in the Morning and a piano…

Warwick Castle: Trebuchet

Leaky Locks and a Leamington Lunch

Released from the brig, and leaving Long Itch (as the locals call it) almost a day later than expected, we continued on down the Grand Union, including the rather leaky staircase lock at Bascote.

Leaky Bascote Staircase

This stretch of the canal was once upon-a-time a narrowbeam canal, but was upgraded to widebeam in the 1930s in an an abortive attempt to compete better with the railways. The remains of the old narrow locks are still apparent, usually partially built over and used as by-washes.

Fosse Lock

Mooring up out in the boonies near the Fosse Way, shopping needs led to a Tuesday lunchtime visit to Royal Leamington Spa, which didn’t make overmuch of an impression, apart from the splendid gardens you pass en-route from the canal quarter to the centre of town.

Leamingto Spa GardensLeamingto Spa Gardens

Leamingto Spa GardensLeamingto Spa Gardens

Rather urgently needing to get a pump-out (earlier attempts had been thwarted), mid-afternoon found us just down the water in Warwick, where Kate Boats cleared us out very thoroughly indeed (but did charge 50% more than most establishments!)

“The Inevitable Morris Dancers”

Dining at the crowded Folly Inn last night, at one point we heard a voice stand out from the noise saying “…it’s usually quite good, apart from the inevitable Morris Dancers” but we didn’t know what the chap was talking about.

Saturday morning, and we turned left at Napton junction onto the Grand Union canal as planned, passing the several marinas, and soon came up against the flight of locks at Stockton (GUC = wide locks). We buddied up with another boat, operating single crew and started downhill through the eight or so. Our chum was positioning his dad’s boat back to Warwick and was determined to reach Long Itchington – a couple of locks beyond the Stockton Flight – that afternoon. Apparently a beer festival was going on there : small village, six pubs, go figure…

At Stockton bottom lock, our buddy’s engine died, and defied all attempts to restart and stay running. We towed him out of the lock, whereupon he just banged in a couple of pins, tied his boat to them, rang his dad to say he was abandoning ship, and headed off down the towpath on foot: such dedication to a cause is rare these days. We’d heard from a boat heading the other way that there weren’t any mooring spaces left at Long Itchington, so we shortly tied up too and settled down for a quiet Saturday evening.

Mayday’s plan (plan!) was to head on towards Warwick, popping in to Long Itchington if we could moor anywhere suitable, to raid the local Co-Op. A suitable mooring presented itself, so we walked into the village for a quick coffee and shopping expedition, past the house that QE1 stayed in many centuries ago, while admiring the Muscovy Duck on the village green.

Long ItchingtonMuscovy Duck 

Before reaching said Co-Op, we stopped at a large but rather empty pub advertising decent coffee. Eschewing the interior, which stank of industrial strength pine flavoured cleaning stuff, we sat outside, enjoying the aroma of yesterday’s cigarettes. We were some time, as there seemed to be some technical difficulty with the coffee machine.

The Chief Cook suddenly became very excited: “There’s some Earlsdon Morris Men” and indeed there did seem to be one or two walking down the road way across the other side of the village green. Herself dated an Earlsdon chap several lifetimes ago, and so heading off in search of her old pals, we reached another pub, where indeed Earlsdon Morris were dancing along with some more old friends Chinewyrd and Seven Champs. It was nice to meet up with several chums we normally only see at Sidmouth these days.

Chinewyrde MorrisChynewrde Musicians

Chinewyrd were as good as always, although, we’ve never seen a team numbering a colour coordinated clarsach player amongst their musicians before. And if any folkies care to click on the photo to take a proper look, they’ll find Dave Hunt (aka Dr. Sunshine) and Will Pound playing melodeons, too.

Tool's HouseEarlsdon Morris: Running Repairs

Tool, founder member of Earlsdon and the renowned Peeping Tom Ceilidh Band lived 17 paces from the pub (going) or 34 (going home), as one can see from the Blue Plaque.

The local ladies caused consternation in the ranks of the road closure stewards helping the teams process from pub A to pub B: half away along outside the church was a sign saying “Free Tea and Cakes: Everyone Welcome”, at which point the procession hung a quick left, then descended on the cakes like a plague of morris dancers. Tea, cakes, and an impromptu hymn-tune session ensued, rather delaying the arrival at the next pub, even though free beer had been promised…

Heading for the cakes...

We did make it to the Co-Op, and eventually back to the boat, somewhat the worse for wear. The Captain enquired politely why our quick trip had taken more than five hours before confining us to the brig. Not quite the May Day we’d planned: must listen more carefully to overheard pub conversations…

Hail Friend, Farewell Napton

Friday night, and The Folly was mobbed: we got the last table for dinner. Turns out they’d had an Open Mic night on the Thursday, but carrying a guitar down five locks-worth of towpath in the hail and sleet wouldn’t have appealed even if we’d known.

While noshing, I caught a half a glimpse of a lady making her way across the crowded bar room to the plumbing facilities. I said to the boss “You know, that lady looked awfully like Kathy of Kathy & Neil…” – a couple who we’d known for years, decades even, as they were local folkies who ran the Bracknell Folk Club for some years; our paths had crossed numerous times over the years, but always at music related events.

Curiosity getting the better of things, I wandered round to the other bar, and there was Kathy saying to Neil “I’m sure I just saw Bob & Fran hidden away in the corner of the other bar…”. Indeed it was them – they were moored below the bottom lock, around the corner.

Actually, we sort of knew they had a boat, but no idea where they kept it or how often they got afloat (grandchildren, you know), but they joined us for coffee back on Song & Dance where it turned out that Neil runs a highly regarded blog on their travels. They were en-route from the Slough Arm on the Grand Union, relocating to Cropredy Marina for the year. Guess we’ll see more of Neil, Kathy and Herbie over the next winter.

Napton Bottom LockNapton Bottom Lock & Napton on the Hill

In the sunshine, Napton Bottom Lock is a nice place for watching the world go by, with good views across to Napton-on-the-Hill.

Napton Bottom Lock Keeper's Cottage

Biggles was taken with the lockkeeper’s cottage as it not only had a suitable half door for dancing, but was already equipped with his access requirements as well.

Herbie & Cathy CorbettHerbie & Cathy

And just as we were getting ready to cast off, Herbie and crew headed off up the hill to Cropredy. We were heading – err – not sure. Turning left at Napton junction was as far as we’d “planned”.

Nipping Down to Napton (Not)

Thursday’s plan was to cruise to the end of the summit pound and get down the Napton flight (some 9 narrow locks, not a huge challenge). On the way, there was one chap who had clearly gone to extremes to avoid paying CaRT any licence fees, by digging a one boat marina then blocking it off…

"Stranded" Boat"Stranded" Boat

Must make cruising a time-consuming business.

Arriving at  Napton Top Lock at lunchtime, there was a queue of boats waiting to go down: apparently there had been some kind of problem/blockage in the morning. Now sorted, the boaters remaining didn’t actually know what the problem had been. Bit like a long motorway queue that just peters out, having been backing up for no obvious reason – vaguely frustrating.

waiting for Napton Top Lock

After the first two locks, the weather was looking less than inviting, and there were pleasant moorings by the Old Engine Arm, so the Captain suggested we bail out for the day.

DSCF3807

His weather sense was impeccable: a little later that afternoon we had snow and hail.

Friday dawned sunny but cold, so we set off down the remaining locks, aiming to get croissants and coffee for second breakfast or first lunch at the rather fine village Post Office/Village Shop/Newsagent/Cafe 10 minutes walk from the bottom lock.

Above Napton Bottom Lock

It might have been sunny, but there was a strong and bitterly cold cross wind making life difficult. Although there are plenty of visitor moorings somewhat below the bottom lock, just above there are about three splendid ones with lovely views across the water buffalo fields to Napton-on-the-Hill, and within 50 yards of The Folly, a quirky but ultimately splendid hostelry. One of the moorings was free, and there was a queue for the bottom lock and facilities. A no brainer: we moored up, booked a table for dinner, and shrugged at the thought that it was going to take three days to descend Napton Locks.

The Folly, Napton'owling gale

Namaste was selling Jack Russell dogs, and just below, moored next to each other were Ollie Owl and Wayfromit Owl  (groans are allowed) and a flag reinforcing the Captain’s decision not to brave the cross wind any further.

Ne’er Cast A Clout Until May Be Out

Not a terribly useful proverb this year! Up on the summit pound, it was positively Baltic. Setting out from Claydon on a 11 mile lock free cruise, we swiftly beat a retreat to The Wharf Inn at Fenny Crompton for a warming lunch: it’s a pub, restaurant, shop, hairdresser, launderette, and it’s really handy for the substantial Cherry Picker farm across the road.

May - maybeWarm enough for a walk

Even though the May was thoroughly out, a short walk had the Captain’s best friend in warm woolly knitted hat and gloves, warm fleece from the Isle of Skye, thick knitted outdoor jumper from the Isle of Harris, cotton top, T-shirt and heavens knows what else to keep the cold wind at bay. Michelin woman takes on the warm Oxfordshire spring evening…

Ladder Bridge (129)Ladder Bridge & Napton

Climbing up on the Ladder Bridge over the canal afforded a splendid view of Napton on the Hill disappearing under another ominous wintry looking cloud.

DuckDuck

We’ve got quite used to large military helicopters hedge-hopping and appearing out of nowhere, and having spent a lot of time in the Scottish hills, so seeing fast jets flying below ground level is quite common.  Nevertheless, large transport aircraft training for nap-of-the-earth flying are a decided novelty… unconstrained by Rule 5 of the ANO this chap was decidedly low, but at least the cloud-base was not an issue and visibility was good here: more than can be said for the Dakota pilot near Banbury the other days.

The dreaded Antenna

And the summit pound is dominated by this radio mast, which the canal winds round and round, so a sunset view from the boat seems appropriate.

Boating in the Snow

Bidding farewell to our chums at Cropredy, we headed off up the Claydon Locks aiming to reach the summit pound of the Oxford Canal. The Claydon Locks had been closed or heavily restricted recently, but we found no evidence of problems on the way up.

However… the outlook was grim, with sunny spells and wintry showers forecast,. and it was <expletive deleted> cold. We thought we were going to bimble up to the summit pound, not mount an assault on Everest.

By Claydon Top Lock

Even the buzzard  was keeping his head down.

By Claydon Top LockBy Claydon Top Lock

With lowering skies and proper snow starting up, it seemed a good time to just pack it in, singing

Boating in the snow
Just boating in the Snow
What a glorious feeling
You should give it a go

… and watch Gene Kelly tap dance down the towpath.

Oh No, Not The Comfy Chair…

Saturday morning, big town centre nearby… must be shopping!

When we were heading down the canal to Oxford, there was large, comfortable looking and seemingly quite new armchair floating in the basin by the lock, rather in the way of boaters. With no habitation or even parking conveniently close by someone must have gone to some considerable effort to donate it: we were looking for the matching sofa, to no avail. They’re a bit odd that way in Banbury – Oxfordshire’s take on NfN?. We were quite pleased on returning that there was no sign of The Spanish Inquisition at all let alone the comfy chair.

Moored up in Castle Quay shopping parade, the chief cook was only yards from Marks & Spencer, Holland & Barrett, all your favourite mobile phone shops, and the Saturday market where a young, handsome (apparently) and smooth-talking Frenchman sold the chief cook some astonishingly expensive and smelly cheese. Not wishing to stay in town on the Saturday night, we headed a bit further uphill near to Great Bourton lock. We felt marginally sorry for Dink & Malc, who – seemingly as always – were sitting in their conservatory, waving to all and sundry passing down the canal. In the last few months, next to their abode has grown a positively enormous rectangular warehouse/box/monstrosity which goes on for hundreds of yards overlooking and dwarfing everything. Progress!?

As our “planning” in Oxford had got as far as heading North a bit, we’d decided to stop over in Cropredy on Sunday night while one of us repatriated the car on Monday, and the other caught up on a fortnight’s washing and drying. Oh the glamour.

So a quick cruise into the Marina (who were pleased to see us) – felt almost like home. And once again, the only bird we noted as we passed Peewit Farm was a Curlew who put on a lovely loud low pass over the boat for us. We had seen a lone high-flying Lapwing the other side of Banbury, but none near their namesake farm.

By the time the washing and driving chores were sorted, it was a bit late in the day to head off cruising, so we stopped another night, and got our exercise for the day walking to the comfortable Brasenose Arms for dinner – it’s rapidly becoming a favourite feeding station. They’ve got a very comfy sofa…

Take Me Back to the Black Hills…

Friday tea-time, damp, moored up just in time to avoid a proper soaking, hatches battened down, and we were warming ourselves up while watching the cloud base lowering to about 400ft and the wind picking up, when a loud noise startled all of us our of our post cruise lethargy.

Straight over the boat, scud-running under the solid low overcast at (at most) 300ft above the ground, was a Douglas DC3, a large old twin-engined airliner more often known as a Dakota. Hanging a smart left and right to avoid the Banbury housing estate, then barely clearing the ridge of hills that runs alongside the canal  from Banbury down to Adderbury it disappeared from view: we were holding our breath waiting for the bang and cloud of black smoke to appear over the ridge-line (and which fortunately never materialized).

It’s bad enough watching the helicopter heroes scud-running at low level in crap weather, but at least they can slow down, hover and if necessary land in a field. Can’t imagine what the Dakota driver thought he was doing or think of any close airfields to Banbury these days. Perhaps he was making an ill-advised visual recovery into Kidlington (sorry, “London Oxford Airport”), but military style nap-of-the-earth flying in an antique airliner is not only in direct contravention of Rule 5 of the Air Navigation Order, but downright suicidal, one would have thought. Quite discombobulating.