Category Archives: General

Boaters Welcome?

Although we’d arrived in Bath quite late on a Sunday afternoon, is was such a lovely evening that we thought a quick recce downtown before dinner would be in order: the low sun on the honey coloured sandstone really gives the whole place a warm glow.

Sydney Gardens footbridgesSydney Gardens Tunnel

The canal running along the back of Sydney Gardens was a peaceful haven; the large building over the tunnel was the HQ of the K&A canal in the early days.

Great Pulteney StreetPulteney Bridge

The walk down Great Pulteney Street to the iconic Pulteney Bridge was notable for being almost entirely traffic free, even if the parked cars detracted from the ambience a little.

The BoaterBeating the Germans to it

But what does one make of a narrow three-story pub on the edge of the bridge and backing onto the river which is called The Boater.

A hat for a pub sign; you can have pretty well any flavour of crisps, but they don’t sell plain ones; they don’t sell Guinness and they’d run out of their Guinness substitute/clone; and they were trying to to confuse the German towel leavers by holding their Oktoberfest in September but hiding the advert around the back. Hmmm…

Bath Tub to Bath

We had already decided (a decision? a rare event) that we weren’t going to press on to Bristol: the storm had – it turned out – rendered the Avon unsafe for boaters and if it was going to be imitating a yo-yo we didn’t want to be stranded. So  – not really being city people – when we set off from Bradford-upon-Avon (or Bradford on Avon if you prefer), we were rather expecting to wind at Avoncliff Aqueduct, stopping at the recommended pub for lunch. But we got there rather early and there were no terribly easy moorings left, so we pressed on to Dundas Aqueduct.

Passing The Who’s country establishment, we came to the conclusion the herons were tamer than in the Midlands, or had been deafened by the noises emanating from the studio.

Who Heron

Dundas Aqueduct was even more mobbed, being a lovely spot on a sunny Sunday lunchtime, but we managed to squeeze in just near Dundas Wharf. Mr Dundas was a big wheel in establishing the K&A, so his name keeps cropping up, even if only as the aforementioned purveyor of extraordinarily expensive Guinness in Kintbury.

River Avon from Dundas AquaductDundas Aqueduct

The aqueduct is impressive, as are the views.

 Dundas Wharf

The wharf was busy – that’s us just under the footbridge in the distance. (Click on the photo and it should get bigger,  as the actress said…)

However, faced with the –err – challenge of reversing a 58ft boat under the bridge and into the basin and then winding in the junction of the aqueduct and the Somerset Coal Canal entrance, with boats coming from all directions, we decided to press on a bit further to the next winding hole.

By which time we were not a million miles from Bath, and it was still only mid-afternoon, so the Captain thought “sod-it”, we might as well press on and see if we can get moored somewhere amenable, and come back if we can’t.

So, while we’d never really intended to come this far, we stumbled upon a mooring in a pleasant spot right next to Sydney Gardens, overlooking the city centre, with a parade of hot-air balloons to welcome us. With such an invitation to spend a couple of days in the city, it would have been positively rude to refuse!

 Entrance to BathBallons over Bath

So, more or less by accident, we seem to have brought February’s bare steel bath tub from it’s genesis in Biddulph all the way to Bath, complete with Captain Biggles, who still seems to be opting to stay with the boat.

Now what?

Bradford Bedlam

The cumulonimbus clouds building over Devizes might have been a false alarm, the ones seen when we’d moored up for the night in Semington certainly weren’t. Quite the longest, loudest and most torrential thunderstorm we’ve ever experienced: we were quite glad to be in a steel box floating on water. Knocked the internet connection for six, that’s for certain!

The grills in the boat’s ceiling below the obligatory mushroom vents were leaking water into the boat like no tomorrow. Discovered subsequently the mushrooms had two positions: screwed up (max ventilation) and screwed down (more or less watertight). Ours had all been left up: another lesson learned. And one ceiling grille didn’t leak at all: on investigation there’s no mushroom vent above it– it’s just screwed to the ceiling for no immediately obvious reason. Another question for Piper Boats!

Arriving in Bradford on Avon (hyphens optional) you can see why it’s a proper-job Cotswolds tourist trap, even if they do bill it as a mini-Bath. Plenty of pictures on the web, but a few places that caught our eye…

Bradford On Avon - Tithe Barn

A truly wonderful Tithe Barn.

I wonder where we are.

Some lovely back streets.

Saxon Church, Bradford On AvonSaxon Church

The delightful Church of St. Laurence – an ancient Saxon church probably built in the 12th century.

Bradford Station

A super little railway station straight out of Miss Marple.

Bradford Wharf and Lock - busy Sunday Afternoon

Sunday afternoon bedlam at Bradford Wharf: a deep lock with decent moorings above and below, a winding hole, a busy hire base, a big wide-beam trip boat, pub moorings, water, sewage and rubbish service point and the Friday and Saturday hirers from Hilperton, Caen Hill and Bath all passing through make for occasional chaos and boats everywhere. A good spot for gongoozling as well as mooring for a couple of days!  And a small, friendly and splendid Indian Restaurant within 50 yards. Who could ask for more?

Devizes and Down

We rather liked Devizes when we passed through on a number of occasions in Sir’s previous motorhome transportation, and mooring up right at the wharf for a few days did nothing to dispel that. A pleasant evening at the folk club, followed by the estimable Bob Berry keeping true to his word by arriving at 09:00 the next morning demanding coffee with menaces, but crucially bearing gifts of fresh croissants…

Devizes Wharf

… consumed while we studied perhaps the most exotic boat paint scheme we’d ever seen, on the quaintly named Arbuthnot Jones, moored across the canal. There was a “for sale” sign in the window: not sure how the paint scheme would affect the price!

Devizes Wharf - Arbuthnot Jones

The Wiltshire Museum provided an interesting diversion, and what looked like storm clouds brewing late in the afternoon made us wonder on whether tackling “the big one” the next day was going to work.

Devizes Wharf - Storm Brewing?

But it came to nothing, the morning dawned fair, and there was no getting away from it. We were going to have to tackle the Caen Hill locks. If climbing up from Reading is slow and prolonged, the descent from Devizes is the canal equivalent of falling off a cliff. Starting off on our own (and light crewed, obviously), we were soon caught up by another boat who shared a lot of the work, and we were down in about four and a half hours. Not too bad in the circumstances. Going up on our own could be a challenge – next week’s problem.

Caen Hill Locks - nearly at the bottom!

Finally, mooring up outside the 3 Magpies at Scotts Wharf – a favourite pub/eating house from previous visits – the 3.75 miles (is that all?), 29 broad locks (gulp!) and lack of lunch decreed an early dinner cooked by someone else and an early night. We appear to have had a cat-burglar during the night: CSI pawprint division have been summoned.

Cat Burglar?

Over the Top, and Another Surprise Old Friend

Another half a dozen locks uphill from the Crofton Pumping Station and we had made it to the summit of the Kennet and Avon. The long haul from Reading up through more than fifty large and hard to work locks was over. Cruising 457ft above sea level, without the aid of oxygen.

But not for long! Biggles said we could take it easy for a bit, but we were soon in our first “proper” tunnel  – Bruce Tunnel in Savernake Forest – 502 yards long. Just before the entrance, in a deep cutting in the middle of nowhere, we were somewhat surprised to see moored up a widebeam barge. We were even more surprised to see that it was John Pinkerton , a trip boat that the Basingstoke Canal Society used to run, and on which we celebrated an old friend’s 60th birthday a few years ago. We knew it had been sold, and a John Pinkerton II acquired, but quite what it was doing there looking rather unloved was a puzzle.

Just after the tunnel there’s the historic Burbage Wharf, with a recently restored and rather fine wooden crane.Restored crane at Burbage Wharf

The summit pound soon ends with three locks, dropping down (a novel experience) to the Long Pound, a very welcome 15 mile lock-free stretch eventually leading into Devizes. With views opening up over the Vale of Pewsey, White Horse sightings in the distance near the delightful and delightfully named Honeystreet Wharf, the struggles of the early section of the K&A were soon forgotten.

Just as we were mooring up at Wilcot, the local fuel boat came along offering (amongst other goodies) the cheapest diesel we’d seen, was happy to sell it at the 100% domestic/red-diesel rate, and took plastic. It would have been rude to refuse! Tying up alongside, a queue soon formed…

Fuel Bowser... K&A Style

Like the Upper Thames, there were loads of pill boxes – apparently the K&A played a major role in defending the industrial Midlands against a German invasion/advance. Most of the bridges also had these strange round large concrete objects (called Dragon’s Teeth, it would seem) to stop tanks. A forerunner of the things you see at airport terminals and American Embassies these days. Wonder why no one has ever moved them.

Dragon's Teeth

Lock-free, but also towpath maintenance free it would seem: a broad beam canal with the un-overgrown width down in some reed-infested areas to just about that of a narrowboat. Don’t know how the big boats get on: just passing oncoming traffic is entertaining. Where’s the Amazon Queen when you need her. An engine failure or someone needing to put ashore in an emergency would have been a real problem.

Where's the Amazon Queen?

Still, autumn draws on – elsewhere the widely prevalent Man-Eating Rhubarb (Gunnera Manicata) is fast dying back, so there are quite long stretches when you can actually see the tow path for a change.

Close Encounters of the Bedwyn Kind

Jumping on the train at Kintbury, as I went to sit down the chap on the opposite seat put a copy of the Metro “newspaper” on it. Barely glancing up I asked “have you finished with that” and he said he had. Then we both did a double take, as it was Joe Phillips, a dear old friend from Bracknell and Uxbridge Folk Club days, who we knew lived in Great Bedwyn – the previous station / end of the line – and who we were planning on phoning a couple of days later as it is on the canal. He never normally travels by train, but that day by chance was going up to London, collecting a friend en-route at Virginia Water (on our beloved slow train from Reading to Waterloo) rather than going direct to Paddington. What are the chances of that?

Not having seen each other since a funeral several years ago, there was lots to talk about!

Mooring up at Great Bedwyn a couple of days later, Fran was heading off to the village shop when she was hi-jacked in the wharf car park by Joe and his musical partner in crime Clive Buckingham (an old Bunjies resident!) and we were dragged off to a splendid dinner in Wilton then a music session in Ramsbury before being returned to the boat well after normal bed time. It’s a hard life…

Joe’s also a volunteer at the fascinating  Crofton Pumping Station, so we had the luxury next afternoon of being heavy-crewed on the short cruise up through a few locks to the Crofton Moorings, from where we got the full guided tour. The boiler was fired up already, in preparation for a special evening steaming event the next day, at which Joe and Clive were singing. A fascinating afternoon… thanks, Joe!

Crofton pumping stationCrofton chimney

Crofton boiler, fired upProper job guages

Meanwhile, outside the martins were gathering on the wires, and inside the swallows were keeping warm above the boiler while waiting for the flitting time to arrive. Won’t be long now!

Keeping warm - 1Keeping Warm - 2

The Hungerford Bridge confusion

After Newbury the locks become more consistent, but no less hard work, and the scenery improves too. The car that Sir normally uses needed an MOT so we moored up at Kintbury railway station near to a posh gastro-pub with positively the most expensive Guinness seen outside London. The first mate stayed with the boat and cat (falling instantly in love with Kintbury village and already making plans to move into the Wharf flats) while someone else caught a train home, and sat around a VW garage for a couple of hours while they prodded and poked and pronounced all was well.

Too late to get back to the boat that evening, an evening home alone beckoned. But fortunately our friend Alan Kluckow was having a champagne and canapés reception for a sculpture exhibition at the Coworth Park/Dorchester Hotel just at the end of our road, so the evening wasn’t entirely wasted…

Kintbury MooringsKintbury

An early start and train back to Kintbury, where we just had to walk into town to sample the butcher and baker (the most divine and expensive Chelsea bun ever). No candlestick maker, but maybe the cake maker counts these days instead.

Kintbury Wharf Flats

We use a web site Canal Planner to help us know where we are and where we’re going and how long it might take. When you go to the main page it tells you where it thinks you are, in relation to the nearest point on an inland waterway. Most of the time it is astonishingly accurate, on several occasions pretty much coming up with the view outside the boat window. If it doesn’t get it right, it always says we are at Hungerford Bridge on the Thames (the one near Waterloo station). No idea why: it’s quite consistent – guess it’s something to do with the boat’s MiFi internet system.

So there was a modicum of confusion when we moored up in Hungerford Town next to the bridge… this wasn’t the picture that came up.

Hungerford Town Bridge

Nice place, Hungerford, the railway really does go through the middle of town on another fine bridge. Even managed to stock up on Sir’s special dietary requirements (no, not marinated mice).

Otter Spotting to Newbury

First time on the Kennet & Avon, and initial impressions are not entirely favourable… but everyone says it gets better after Newbury. The scenery heading West from Reading through Thatcham and Theale is pleasant enough, but the big locks are a bit of a pain.

Locks are (to our way of thinking) best either a long way apart, or close enough that one can roll up one’s sleeves and get stuck in, sending extra lockwheeling crew walking on ahead if possible/available. On the K&A they seem spaced for optimum inconvenience… too far apart to walk on (requiring you to pick up and drop crew all the time), not quite far enough apart to even boil the kettle, let alone drink the coffee. And places where you can actually moor up for a while within jumping distance of the bank are rare indeed,  and in places a flame-thrower on the bow would be more useful than a bow-thruster.

Not only is going uphill through big heavy locks with only the two crew hard and slow work – Biggles merely supervises –  each lock is different. Some have really vicious gate paddles at the top that create a Geneva-like Jet d’Eau that could sink you in seconds, others have turbulence inducing ground paddles. Some have straight walls, some have scalloped walls, and there are a couple of rare turf sided locks with no walls at all. And they’re all different lengths too, with varying gears / hydraulic mechanisms to add to the fun. And some need emptying  again after use. A far cry from the well maintained and usually manned Thames locks! If you can buddy-up with another boat to share the load, well and good (assuming their crew are not gung-ho boat sinkers), but there’s hardly anyone about now the schools are back.

Turf Sided LockAt one point, the towpath between Theale and Thatcham was disrupted, and there were signs from the local fishery in the adjacent vast gravels pit apologising, saying that due to continued predation of their fish stocks despite earlier measures, they were busy installing otter-proof fencing. Which suggests there are loads of otters about, or a few very fat ones. Or some paranoid anglers.

Newbury Central

Unlike many towns, Newbury embraces the canal: the bridge in the picture just beyond the lock carries the pleasant and largely pedestrianized high street over the canal. Fresh Orange Juice and croissants for breakfast within 2 minutes walk. Works for us!

Decision Time for The Oracle

Once upon a time the intention was to have Song & Dance launched at Thames & Kennet Marina, (because it’s close to home, and Piper Boats launch most of their Dutch Barges there), then spend our first season exploring the Southern canals, which we don’t know at all. But as launch date approached the Thames was still a bit up and down, and learning the new boat’s ropes on a volatile river didn’t seem that smart, nor did the chance of getting stuck there for weeks appeal much either.

So we launched in Longport – closest point to Piper’s factory – and stayed close by having a shakedown cruise on the Caldon Canal, before heading south for what remained of the summer. Good job we did, as it happened, as there were a number of problems with the boat that needed urgent attention. We had originally intended to do the Upper Thames, Kennet and Avon and Wey Navigation before heading back north for the winter, but as a result of the change in plan we were at Kennet Mouth / Thames & Kennet Marina some 2-3 months behind the back-of-an-envelope schedule!

So: down the K&A to Bristol if possible before turning round, or down the Thames and Wey to Godalming? The latter would mean we could go to the Piper Boat event/meet in September, but given the ongoing unresolved issues with the boat and Biggles’ unfortunate tendency to say what he thinks I’m not sure Song & Dance’s presence would have been entirely helpful or welcome! It’ll be no hardship coming back down the Oxford Canal again next spring.

So Bath and maybe Bristol here we come… an early start (for us, anyway) soon found us at the traffic lights controlling boat traffic through the Oracle Centre in Reading… Westward Ho!

Reading The Runes

Autumn is a-coming in: with all the hedgerow fruit well advanced, and only a few swallows still lurking in the flocks of martins, the conker trees have clearly decided to call it a day. Magic Dragon, the rather fine steam-driven half-scale Clyde Puffer moored at Beale Park started a Peter Paul & Mary ear-worm that lasted far too long. Would have been nice to see her in steam.

Horse Chestnuts on the changeHalf-scale Clyde Puffer

We don’t know Reading very well. Having persuaded Caversham Boat Services (right between Caversham and Reading Bridges) to provide us with a mooring for the night that had an electric hook-up so we could exercise the washing machine, we were surprised when they said “you do realise we’re on an island, and there’s no way off once we go home, don’t you…”. Mind you, their address – Fry’s Island – gives a clue I suppose.

Hope the residents of the posh flats across the water enjoyed the view of our boat and washing drying in the sun. Lots of interesting traffic passing , but somehow this boat (see below) did NOT inspire any ear-worms. We suggested he change the name to Banjo.

Opposite Fry's IslandA Morris Dancing boat?

The next day, we picked up some very dear old Reading dwelling friends avec bicyclettes outside the posh flats, then had a very pleasant meander down the Thames to Sonning Lock before returning to the junction of the Kennet River with The Thames where they pedalled off to put dinner on. (And from where we were subsequently chauffeured to and from a delightful repast chez Mayor). Before leaving we were visited by some equally friendly Antipodean strays, who seem to still have their seasons mixed up. They were so much more polite than their white UK compatriots.

Black SwanBlack Swan

In the morning, we discovered that we were moored rather closer to the entrance of a 24-hour Tesco than most car drivers could park (unless handily equipped with a disabled disc or a small baby). Fresh croissants and a newspaper for breakfast within a minute’s walk – a rare treat…

Mind you, en-route back for said breakfast, the rodent seen scurrying across the path was clearly a rat rather than a stoat or water vole. Ho Hum.