Lighthouse for Sale

The visitor moorings in Gloucester Docks just by the Severn lock are superbly situated if you want to be close to the noise and hubbub of the waterside bars and restaurants (shades of Gas Street Basin in Brum), but not really suitable for a humiliated Skipper who liked a certain amount of privacy and space to wander and dig. So once tea and buns were over we headed out of the central dock area through Llanthony Bridge to somewhere more cat friendly.

Llanthony BridgeAcross from Llanthony Bridge mooring

The docks refurbishment hadn’t quite got this far so the breakfast room view left a little to be desired, but on the mooring side was a large area of cleared ground, which suited Sir just fine.

High Orchard Bridge

We were tucked in nicely behind the lightship Sula which used to be an alternative therapy centre but is up for sale. We were quite tempted, but thought getting it to Cropredy Marina for the winter might be a challenge too far…

SulaDSCF4301

Anyway, the mooring proved eminently suitable, 100 yards from a 24hr Sainsburys one way, 200 yards from the attractions of the docks the other, and – at night – even a little picturesque.

High Orchard BridgeSula

Gloucester Here We Come

Saturday morning dawned bright and gloomy, and we set off, starting with locking down through Avon Lock onto the Avon link, then a left turn onto the River Severn proper. Very shortly we came to Upper Lode Lock, below which the river is sometimes tidal (at high Spring Tides), and hence bad news for little boats. There was to be a Spring Tide on the Sunday  morning, so we really needed to get tucked up in Gloucester before then.

Upper Lode Lock is ENORMOUS. Safely descended, the far gates were opened, and Song & Dance was fully up to deep river cruising speed before we even reached them. And there’s also a wide pool at that end fully big enough to wind/turn a 58ft narrowboat round or moor a flotilla of sailing yachts.

Just down the Severn from Upper Lode, you come across the premises of the Avon Sailing Club, but that’s all right as the Severn Sailing Club is situated near Bredon, about 6 miles up the Avon from Tewkesbury. Must be something in the water.

Making good time we stopped at The Boat Inn at Ashleworth for lunch and a short wander. Although the village itself is a way off, just behind the pub is a fine collection of 15C buildings huddled together: a manor house, church and tithe barn.

AshleworthAshleworth Tithe Barn

Ashleworth Tithe BarnAshleworth Tithe Barn

This barn is still seemingly used for storing useful things like dead sinks, but at least there was little in the way of guano underfoot. More impressive were the giant “half doors”. Don’t know about lifting one off so you can clog dance – these are big enough to hold a small ceilidh on! An instant hernia at the mere thought.

Ashleworth ChurchAshleworth StyleAshleworth Church

The church had an unusual – but probably not 15C – stile, and their bell ropes matched the chief cook’s fancy mooring warps, so if we need some more we know where to come.

Old Spots

And just around the corner were some Gloucestershire Old Spots – an early inspiration for several other Morris sides and the Morris movement in general – one even looks suspiciously like Ken Langsbury…

During the pub lunch break, the Captain had braved the open weave pontoons for a good rummage around in the bankside weeds and woods. Needing to get going, and after watching him seemingly sitting quietly in a chunk of long grass for some while with no sign of wishing to go boating again, the navigator picked him up as per normal. Only to find him in mid wee. After a wash, and a clean shirt, we set off with a very grumpy Skipper muttering to himself.

We’d been warned about the approach into Gloucester Lock, which takes you up from the River Severn into Gloucester Docks: it was as interesting as promised, and we were glad of the detailed briefing; even gladder there wasn’t actually much flow on the Severn that afternoon, or it could have easily become exciting – something we try and avoid.

With us as the only occupants, the lockkeeper filled the large lock very slowly, and before we’d made it all the way up to the busy bedlam that is Gloucester Docks on a sunny weekend afternoon, our friends Moira, Graham and family were peering over the edge and forming a welcoming party. We’d seen them all several times in passing last weekend at Chippenham, but never got a chance to chat, so tea and buns at the narrowboat cafe rapidly ensued.

All in all, we’ve had worse days, even if the Captain was still sulking, and The Guv’nor was nowhere in sight.

Bredon At Last-Take 2: Optical Illusions and Guano

A sunny Friday morning – and as the car needed taking home – the Captain allowed us to use it to drive the 3 miles or so to Bredon, to see what we’d missed when passing by boat a week or so ago.

Singing Kettle, Tewkesbury MarinaWalking from our mooring by the lock back to the marina to collect the car, we discovered what had happened to our chums Cilla and Artie’s now retired/redundant collection of tea making equipment – they’ve turned it into a narrowboat. Unless they’re starting a new, small scale, floating show, like the Mikron Theatre lot, who we haven’t seen anything of this season so far.

Bredon turned out to be a very pretty, and pretty much unspoilt, village with an interesting parish church, an old pub that does food, and a National Trust Tithe Barn so famous they don’t even bother to list it in their membership book. Unfortunately the village is disturbingly close to the M5.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The church’s steeple is visible from far and wide, but the first surprise is the flooring. Fancy knotwork heating grids, and optical illusion tiling isn’t the usual parish church fare.

Bredon ChurchBredon Church

The totally OTT marble tomb seemed out of place, but the stained glass was lovely.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Just down from the churchyard was a fine tithe barn, for storing the local “taxes”: these days it’s seemingly mainly used as an enormous dovecot. We wonder if they harvest the significant quantities of guano flooring.

Bredon Tithe BarnBredon Tithe Barn

Walking back, the cook noticed this lovely – if somewhat out of character – cottage and gardens, and decided that it would be nice place to retire to…

Bredon Cottage

After lunch at the pub, the cook was dropped back at the boat, and the car returned to home.

Memo to self 1: don’t try driving from Tewkesbury down the M5/M4 and returning via an Oxford bound train on a Friday afternoon at the end of half-term holidays.

Memo to self 2: don’t believe the bus timetables and signs for the Ashchurch for Tewkesbury to Tewkesbury “rail link” (sic). It’s complete figment of someone’s imagination.

Still, we hope the weather holds: it’s time to go boating again.

An Abbey a Day…

Making a mental note to check why the River Avon has so many abbeys close together (Evesham, Pershore, Tewkesbury): an Abbey a Day keeps something at bay. And whether you’re deeply religious, an atheist, or a even a committed Pastafarian, there’s  something undeniably awe inspiring about these old religious sites and buildings from Stonehenge and Callanish onwards, and the faith of the people who built them without the aid of modern day cranes and cherry pickers.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey fledgeling

Well surrounded, it’s not altogether easy to get a decent outside shot of the Abbey, although the fledgling blackbird (taken from the same spot) clearly had an unusual “bird’s eye view”.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

The vaulted and decorated ceilings are quite astonishing, as is the stained glass.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey: Running Repairs

And the almost filigree stone work on some of the tombs and side chapels does make you wonder, even if it clearly needs a lot of attention. The one on the left is apparently the grave of Edward II (the king, not the folk/reggae/rock band that our mate Simon played in).

Tewkesbury and the Two-Hanky Poppadum

We were rather taken with Tewkesbury, and on our return from Chippenham/home had resolved to explore further and visit the Abbey. There seem to be lot of Abbeys on the Avon for some reason.

Anyway after driving back with a car load of clean clothes, and with the Captain safely reinstalled in his Captain’s chair on the boat, we set off for a quick curry. Most curry houses these days have “Chef’s Specials” or “House Recommendations” above and beyond the bog-standard standard CTM/Biryani/Bhuna/Madras/whatever concoctions, and if one goes off-piste on the menu, one occasionally comes across a dish rather hotter (or sometimes less hot) than expected. We can safely say that at Panache we came across our first two-hanky poppadum.  Ordering the standard “two plain, two spicy” to nibble while we cogitated, halfway through the first spicy one we were already wondering if we had enough napery to make it through to dinner proper. The food was indeed excellent and memorable.

But enough of runny noses: some pictures of a wander around Tewkesbury in some pleasant warm sunshine on the Thursday morning…

Tewkesbury DoorwayTewkesburyTewkesbury Doorway

Some doorways and cottages on main street.

Old Baptist Chapel CourtOld Baptist Chapel CourtOld Baptist Chapel Graveyard

This ginnel led to an Old Baptist Chapel complete with graveyard looking out over the Ham lands, lying between the River Avon and the River Severn…

Graveyard CatOld Baptist Chapel Court

… and it came complete with a snoozing Old Baptist Chapel Court Cat.

Sluice Cottages, TewkesburySluice Cottages, Tewkesbury

The Ham, TewkesburyThe Ham, Tewkesbury

These cottages at the “end” of the Avon navigation – where a big sluice drops the water down to the Severn level – have a lovely view of the Ham, definitely the largest wild-flower meadow we’ve seen this trip!

Fran and Tewkesbury CatTewkesbury

Tewkesbury

Some more old buildings (and another cat) – and we haven’t even been round the Abbey yet.

Chippenham Ho…

Chippenham Folk Festival passed very pleasantly, apart from the weather, which was warm and sunny, which meant that the streets were wall-to-wall with Morris Dancers. (Those of a nervous disposition should look away now). And apart from the weird The Pines hotel, run by some well meaning but clearly out of their depth young Greek Cypriot lads. The place is apparently known locally by an anagram. It was however very close to the centre of town.

Anyway, we’re always giving Morris Dancers some stick, so to redress the balance…

Churchwarden's MorrisRed White and Blue Twizzle Stick Morris

First up, instead of Cotswold, Clog, Border or Molly dancing we have Churchwarden Morris (dunno which church they borrowed the sticks from), and Twizzle Stick Morris. The former made us wonder whether we should form a Boathook Morris side – there’s bound to be a tradition somewhere.

Simon Pipe and BroomstickSimon Pipe and Broomstick

And then there’s Simon Pipe doing very odd things with a broom stick.

Hector GilchristLouise Jordan

To echo Banbury Folk Festival last year, here’s a pic of our old friend Hector Gilchrist, and one of Louise Jordan, who was kind enough to lend the navigator a thumb-pick when Hector dragged him up to sing and play.

The final weird experience of the weekend – on being asked to stand in and MC a concert instead of Keith Donnelly because he was double-booked – was finding Keith in the audience, heckling as ever. Ah well…

An Evening Twixt Avon and Severn

Having agreed that we could go to Chippenham Folk Festival for the Bank Holiday weekend, while he deigned to visit home and be spoilt by our neighbour, the Skipper was anxious to be off and resume hostilities with Otto, the new kid in town, who had taken up residence next door. But by the time we’d sorted out everything, it was too late to get a train and fetch a car, so the evening was spent on a quick exploratory look around Tewkesbury.

A first glance made it clear that sitting at the junction of the rivers Avon and Severn, and being prone to flooding recently, there was some heavyweight water manipulation stuff all around.

River Avon, Tewkesbury MarinaRiver Avon, Tewkesbury

Tewkesbury is apparently renowned for its myriad little alleys off the High Street: here are a couple (including one especially for some reneging crew members). Not sure if it’s renowned for strangely named Estate Agents, but it’s got one of those too.

Tewkesbury AlleyTewkesbury AlleyEstate Agent

There were plenty of interesting looking buildings, too…

Berkeley Arms, Tewkesbury

… as well as the famous Abbey at the other end of town, so we determined to spend a day or so exploring on our return, and soon spotted some decent visitor moorings outside the marina, right by the bridge and the lock down onto the Severn.

Tewkesbury: Avon BridgeTewkesbury: Avon Bridge

The bridge lies between two famous old pubs: The White Bear and The Black Bear. They have build a new block of flats between the two pubs, and the access road into them shows that some councils have a sense of humour.

Twixtbears

And so, having travelled home by train and returned avec voiture on the Tuesday, an early start to the chauffeur’s birthday on Wednesday saw us driving Sir home, then going out for a splendid steak dinner, while looking forward to resuming the exploration of Tewkesbury after the Chippenham festivities.

Bredon at Last – Or Not

With Bredon Hill in view from various directions for several days, it was something of a relief to actually circumnavigate it: we were actually trying to get to Tewkesbury.

Bredon HillBredon Hill

It really is lovely countryside around here, even if it is impossible to sail in a straight line.

Bredon Hill

Some mandolin musician friends of the Captain had once hoped to do an arrangement of Ralph Vaughan William’s treatment of Houseman’s Bredon Hill, but Ursula ran some kind of interference so they wrote their own tune. Wonder what they’d make of this boat… it’s very big, and a strange way to spell ukelele!

Bredon Moorings

Bredon church and village looked interesting as did the Tithe Barn, and the book said there were moorings: nothing for a narrowboat, though. Another day, maybe. We did like the sentiment behind the blue-and-white Tupperware job’s name!

Tewkesbury MarinaTewkesbury Marina

And so, in the early afternoon, in glorious sunshine, we eased into Tewkesbury Marina, which is vast, with several basins on both the Avon and the Severn, and moorings on both sides of the river. They even have their own private Bailey bridge across the Avon as well. Still, they were friendly and helpful, and the moorings were all flood safe, so it was a good place to leave Song & Dance for a week or so, come hell or high water.

School Runs, Storms, Strensham, and Summer White-Outs

When we woke up on the (nice and sunny) Monday morning, the Eckington Quay/Bridge car park next to Song & Dance was empty, but not for long. A car pulled up – early morning dog-walker, we assumed. But no, a young-ish man got out, accompanied by two young boys smartly dressed in school uniform. Out came a folding table and chairs which were duly unfolded, followed by provisions for a picnic breakfast. They ate and happily chattered away in what sounded like a Eastern European language for half an hour, before fairly rapdily packing everything up and heading off. A whole new slant on the school run!

Earlier in the trip we’d noticed just how much wildlife there was in the hedgerows, presumably due to the mild and wet winter. Another benefactor seemed to be dandelions, which seemed to be rampant – we’d never seen so many covering the fields by the canals and river. And with the warmer weather and a significant breeze, the seeds were coming off the dandelion clocks in such numbers that several times it was like boating in a snow storm. Again.

Flood WarningUnknown Yellow Flower

Setting off for Strensham Lock, and yet another attempt at actually getting around Bredon and Bredon Hill, we soon came across a reminder that the Avon is not always so docile.

Another plant we’d noticed was a yellow flowered jobbie that we originally thought might have been escaped rape, but after a day or two decided it wasn’t the right colour. The banks of the Avon were covered with it: any suggestions as to what it is will receive the customary award.

Strensham LockAnd as for Strensham Lock… the top gate and paddles leaked so much that we actually had significant waves in the lock. Song & Dance isn’t exactly seaworthy, and by the time we exited the lock we were feeling decidedly seasick.

By Eckington

Leaving Pershore behind on the Monday morning, the Avon does a two giant loops around Pensham and Birlingham in an S shape, with Bredon Hill always beckoning from a constantly changing direction. We hadn’t planned to go far, but the few moorings were either full or unsuitable. Nafford Lock provided a reminder that this chunk of water is a river, and can bite… there was a narrowboat half over the weir, half under water, and held in place by the large floating objects that try to prevent even worse disasters. We were too busy trying to negotiate the difficult turn into the lock itself without going the same way to take photographs. Glad we’ve got very calm and docile water!

We eventually found a place suitable for the Captain at Eckington Wharf, where there’s a small car park for walkers, some picnic tables, and room to moor a couple of boats. And a very pretty and ancient bridge.

Eckington Wharffrom Eckington Wharf

It looked a bit gloomy when we moored up, but nothing came of it.

Eckington BridgeEckington Bridge

Despite it’s age, Eckington Bridge still carries heavy traffic to this day.

Eckington Bridge

With a nice sunset to round things off, someone discovered the ship’s camera could take panorama shots, so here’s a couple of experiments.

Eckington BridgeEckington Bridge