Going Tidal

Venturing onto the tidal Thames below Teddington Lock is not to be taken lightly in a totally unseaworthy narrowboat, even just down the short-ish section to Brentford, where one can re-enter the canal system. It’s almost a 180° turn going down the river and into the cut that reaches Thames Lock and the Grand Union Canal. Get the timing wrong, and the tide can cause the river to be flowing downstream at 15 knots, when the most your narrowboat will do is about 8 knots flat out (a recipe for ending up somewhere entirely different to where you wanted to go, probably pointing in the wrong direction).

So the deal is that you depart Teddington Lock about half an hour before high tide,  and turn into Brentford just over an hour later, before things get too hairy. “High tide’s at 12:45 on Sunday: be at the lock at 12:15” said the lockkeeper. The other advantage of this timing is that they raise the weir gates at Richmond so you can sail straight through, rather than work through Richmond Lock.

Unusually, we were somewhat late departing Hampton Court moorings (quelle surprise), even though an Egyptian Goose family came to wave farewell, and check out our snazzy new lifejackets.

Egyptian Goose & goslings

Then as we puttered down towards Kingston, the engine went into auto-rough. (This is a phenomenon well known to those with risk assessment gene deficiency syndrome who fly single-engine aircraft over large bodies of water: the engine detects the moment one leaves the possibility of a dry landing and sounds as though it’s about to self destruct). Mooring up hurriedly to disappear down the weed hatch only to find nothing didn’t help our arrival time… it was looking less and less likely we were going to make our tidal slot.

And then it started raining (as forecast). So what with putting on wet weather gear, clock watching, pushing the throttle up a bit and so on, the otherwise interesting trip down through our old haunts of Thames Ditton, Kingston and Teddington passed in a bit of blur, without slowing down to take photos, although we did manage to snap this old Dutch Tjalke. And as the river got wider so did the the boats!

Dutch Tjalke

12:15 came and went and we were still a nearly mile short of Teddington Lock. As we approached, there was a large passenger steamer on our tail, and – (there are two parallel locks at Teddington – we were waved into one already occupied by two other narrowboats camping at the bit, and the steamer waved into the other. Again, no time for pictures. Letting down onto the tidal Thames, it was exactly 12:45 high tide when we left the lock… we got the impression from the lockkeeper that had we arrived any later, we’d have been waiting for 24 hours. “Follow the others… you’ll be OK” he said.

So we got ourselves a convoy, and the next hour and a quarter passed quickly enough while the tide started to fall, as did the scenery(!) and with little drama.

Passing Richmond, you realise just what a superb position the old Star and Garter home (now being converted into luxury apartments) occupies. Just so long as you don’t mind aircraft on finals to LHR going right overhead at 1500ft every 90 seconds or so).

We've got ourselves a convoy

The last stretch before Brentford has Syon Park on the left, and Kew Gardens on the right, but you don’t really see either (apart from the mature trees lining the bank). And we were happy to be in convoy with someone who knew where they were going. The turn into Thames Lock is unmarked and not at all obvious and it would be easy to sail right on past. Even with almost “correct timing” tide-wise, and following the boat in front, we were astonished at how far downstream we travelled involuntarily during the turn, and how much power we needed to crawl upstream into the lock cut. Definitely not an exercise to be taken lightly!

Locking up into Brentford, the sun came out again, and the visitor moorings were all full (there’s a quaint old bit of Brentford as well as all the skyscrapers lining the M4 elevated section), so we pottered on into another business park for a well-deserved late lunch. Biggles decided to explore the office blocks before deciding to go somewhere else for the night.

Late lunch in BrentfordLate lunch in Brentford

Late lunch in Brentford

A short potter further along the Grand Union ensued, to moor just before Hanwell Bottom Lock, right near a pub that didn’t serve their much recommended food on a Sunday evening. The irritating Sunday Lunch syndrome strikes again.

Hampton Court Palace

By all accounts, we were definitely lucky to find a space on the popular Hampton Court Palace moorings late afternoon on a sunny Saturday, even if the local trip boats made it seem more like New Orleans. Pretty sure the paddle wheels are not used for propulsion though. If you look carefully (click on the pic) you can see us moored towards the back, right near the shiny golden gates. Shame they’re rather hidden by the grey-painted security railings. You can also see in the distance some of the preparations for next week’s flower show – the entrance (or at least the “wheel-chair collection point”) is down there.

Hampton Court mooringsHampton, Mississippi

Hampton Court Palace

It being late afternoon, hot, mobbed with tourists etc. etc. we opted to make a proper visit later in the year, but did take shufti around the Rose Garden area.

A rose by any other name...Hampton Court Rose Garden

My love is like a red red rose...

Fran decided once again that what she really really wanted for her birthday was a south-facing brick wall, while one of these pictures couldn’t but remind me of an old Robbie Burns song.

A stroll across the bridge for provisions (a garage selling M&S Cheescake, no less) and a dose of café culture in Molesey’s main street (one of the last outposts of the ruling colonial elite , it would seem from the jolly posh British accents), and back via the palace entrance to check on the Captain…

Hampton Court Bridge

… who was quite happy sunning himself on the quayside, while all the tourists walking along the path above stopped to tell him how wonderful he was.

Gold Gate DoorwayChilling Out

The best laid plans…

With hot weather, and too much to eat and drink, it was looking like a possibly restless night, and so it proved. Having given up meditating on the undergrowth, we were woken by that unmistakeable sound of the Captain leaping aboard and giving forth with a full, open throated victory “yowl”, only somewhat moderated by the small furry rodentoid mute firmly and inextricably grasped in his molars.

Promised for Friday lunchtime, by early afternoon we’d established that due to the wonders of the wholesaler’s computer system, our part had not only failed to arrived at Shepperton Marina, but they were now out of stock and no more would be available to until at least mid-July. And I thought aircraft parts could be problematical. So much for hanging around waiting!

A somewhat testy phone call with the wholesaler elicited the information that one last pump-out cap could be located at their sub-office somewhere in Outer Mongolia, or perhaps the Norfolk Broads – I forget which. Anyway, they promised to get it delivered to Uxbridge Boat Centre for Tuesday, whom we expected to pass somewhere around then. They also promised to call Uxbridge and tell them we’d be calling in to collect it.

By now, it was getting too late to set off and expect to find moorings on a sunny Friday evening, so another chill-out session ensued at our Shepperton moorings before eventually heading off down stream on the Saturday morning.

Walton BridgeWalton Bridge

The new Walton bridge is rather fine. Wonder why they named it after the first mate.

Sad Eyed?Goodnight Irene

Just near there, we wondered if the rather grey Lady of the Lowlands was as Sad-Eyed as she looked. And the naval gun standing guard over Goodnight Irene may be the Environment Agency’s latest attempt to catch licence dodgers, or perhaps is just there to deter anyone from singing anything other than Leadbelly’s version when they pass.

Wonder what the tartan looks likeDivebombing Parakeet

We also wondered what tartan might be appropriate for this cruiser, moored near The Anglers, which really does have a dive-bombing parakeet as its pub sign, just in case anyone disbelieved us.

And so, heading further downstream, we eventually moored up right under the gold plated gates at Hampton Court Palace: we were lucky to get in there, it would appear.

Haircut Al-Fresco and Helicopters

And so it proved to be… with the weekend weather forecast looking good, our nice quiet moorings rapidly filled up with other like minded boaters.

Mind you, being on this stretch of the Thames, you soon realise just how many helicopters avail themselves of the H3 low level route into Central London through Heathrow’s Air Traffic Zone (it follows the M3 from Bagshot then the Thames).

The crew’s hairdresser of several decades standing lived nearby (his boys all went to Halliford School a third of mile away), and miraculously he had a spare slot, so he nipped down to look at the boat and trim madam’s locks.

Al Fresco HaircutAl Fresco Haircut

One of Fran’s Badminton-playing pals spent quite a lot of time with a friend who owned a cruiser somewhere in the area. She’d been meaning to call her with a view to possibly meeting up, when who should arrive by water? Dee and friend. They, like us, were mooching around for a day or so…

DSCF2374

Then, to round off the day, Fran’s ex-husband plus his wife, still living in Sunbury, came round for a look at the boat and dinner in Shepperton. Unfortunately, Fran’s sister and brother-in-law, who were also coming, cried off because Lynne wasn’t well. Despite that, there was still much discussion of old friends, family etc.

So much for a quiet chill-out spot!

The wildlife were pretty tame too: a pair of mallards demanded food with menaces and ate from the hand.

Tame duckling

A swan had a new clutch of cygnets that were just learning to go solo.

Swan ferrySwan ferry disembarkation

And scruffy Canada Goslings really just don’t have that je ne sais quoi  that cygnets have, do they?

Canada Geese

A Sojourn in Shepperton

As we entered the Thames, and contemplated the future transit from Teddington Lock to Brentford Lock down the tidal section we decided some suitable lifejackets would be in order. On most of the canals, the first thing you say to a man overboard is “stand up”, but that isn’t the case on a big tidal river!

So we locked down onto the Thames, went across to the fascinating Nauticalia emporium, who don’t sell lifejackets, and the adjacent outpost of Shepperton Marina who don’t sell lifejackets either, before heading downstream through Walton Bridge to Shepperton Marina proper, who do.

Suitably denuded of money (as per the boat we saw there called Empty Wallet) we took the opportunity of having a pump out and learned another of those important boating lessons. When the pump out orifice is on the side away from the jetty, and is perforce tricky to get at balancing on the gunwale, the large thick rubber gauntlets one normally wears for such (and other!) activities are hugely conducive to dropping the pump out cap into the water…

And being made of chrome plated brass, the caps aren’t retrievable with those powerful magnets often found around the boating fraternity. Ho hum.

Some phone calls and web browsing discovered a part number from a major chandlery wholesaler who dealt with Shepperton Marina, and a replacement was ordered, and promised for delivery Friday lunchtime. As the cook had plans for the area, the Captain had already spotted a potentially pleasant mooring place he wished to explore, and the Thames is large enough that we can turn round pretty well anywhere, we decided to stay in the area for a couple of days.

Sinfonia & Gloriana

Shepperton Marina is pretty huge, mainly full of river cruisers, but way in the distance, almost hidden behind Sinfonia we spotted HM Queen’s Gloriana lurking. And the latest free sheet has pictures of the recent Crick Boat Festival, where Sinfonia was Piper Boats’ exhibit, so she must be brand new and only just launched.

A trip just across the water to The Anglers  at Walton Wharf for a quick shopping trip in Bob-on-Thames, and we headed back up the river to the place Biggles had spotted. We did wonder why The Anglers pub sign was of a dive-bombing ring-necked parakeet, but an evening in Shepperton soon showed why…

Shepperton MooringsMeditation upon a Mouse Nest

Anyway, Biggles was most impressed, and spend hours totally still, meditating silently at the edge of the woods, before occasionally diving into the greenery. And at least once emerging shortly thereafter with a small furry object in his mouth.

With the weather set fair, the Captain’s seal of approval, well away from the road, tucked behind the cricket club and useful car park, and 5 minutes walk from the shops and restaurants of Shepperton High Street, this seemed a highly suitable place to chill out for a couple of days.

Wey Navigation Reflections

We we were rather reluctant to leave the Wey Navigation.We’d stayed a lot longer than originally planned, even allowing for a lengthy trip up the Basingstoke Canal to Odiham  and someone’s side trip to the Cotswolds. The section between Pyrford and Stoke Lock on the outskirts of Guildford is just delightful, a million miles from anywhere yet so close to home, as are Dapdune Wharf and the stretch to Godalming. Moorings were not always easy to find, but worthwhile when one did. The locks were a bit fierce if you were careless going uphill, but well maintained and perfectly manageable once you’d sussed the issues.

And there’s the bonus of lots of friends within easy reach, who could come and visit Biggles without too much difficulty, or provide help ferrying us around. Rather think we’ll be back!

Mind you, there’s one thing we won’t miss: the seeming obsession of local boaters in exploiting dreadful puns. We’d already come across Weyward Lass so I guess Weyward Lady  was hardly a surprise, and the day trip boat company Weydays just about forgivable. Less so are the narrowboat Wey Out towing a small tender Wey In, while Hem In Way seemed a tad literate. We kept thinking we were going to come across one called And Now, The Time Is Neer

Weybridge Reflections

If you pass through Weybridge via the Wey Navigation en-route to the Thames, you don’t really see much of the town, even though it’s very close. And if you pass through Weybridge by road, you would probably cross the main tree-lined Wey Road Bridge without ever noticing the canal.

Under Weybridge Road BridgeEntrance to Weybridge Town Lock

Yet, at the entrance to the Weybridge Town Lock, there’s sizeable basin by the old bridge, just a short way from the church at the end of the high street as the crow flies.

Weybridge

We stayed a couple of nights between the main bridge and Thames Lock: there’s a quiet towpath wandering past some impressive waterside properties, even if they’re not much to look at from the road side. Tucked away, unless you walked along the cut, you’d probably never know they were there. They made fine, if temporary neighbours. Must check out the local estate agent…

WeybridgeWeybridgeWeybridgeWeybridgeWeybridge

Coming Adrift

[Aside: Not quite sure why that post about the Dunkirk Little Ship has suddenly appeared… it was posted weeks ago, but has only just shown up. Ho Hum.]

The bank near The Anchor is rather soft and dry, and you need to ensure that any mooring pins are really secure and won’t pull out if another boat passes by. Kelly Ann clearly hadn’t!

Coming Adrift

Completely blocking the canal, and with no-one at the pub claiming ownership, we managed to board it, and with another passer-by (a boat yard chap from Byfleet way) poled it back alongside, then as a hint, really secured their pins. The Byfleet chap mentioned that their barge pole was rotten in the middle, and that he had several shiny new ones at his yard, should we see the culprits return.

The Kelly Ann  guys returned eventually, but rather than head downstream towards the Byfleet chap’s boatyard, they headed upstream. While trying to manoeuvre backwards into the marina entrance to turn round, their bargepole snapped…

Later, a wide-beam boat suffered the same pin-pulling indignity at the same spot. A posh chap in a tupperware cruiser arrived and fulminated “they’re blocking the navigation, you know” as though it was a deliberate, thoughtless act leaving a boat in his way, and proceeded to mutter mutter mutter while we pinned that one back too. Strange.

Setting off late on Sunday afternoon, just to move away from the pub, the wide-beam had almost come adrift again, but we squeezed past while another boater went to sort it out. We moored up not far away, then on Monday pottered gently down to the delights of Weybridge, through New Haw and Coxes Lock.

Dunkirk Ho

Belatedly reading the newspapers, the Captain was delighted to see the aforementioned lovingly restored Lazy Days in a photograph of the small ships flotilla setting out to sea on their visit to commemorate the 75th anniversary of the Dunkirk evacuation, and the weather was set fair for the crossing. Good luck to them all.

Ooohh What a Whopper…

… or the one that got away!

Back at the boat on the Friday, washing all up-to-date, cook suitably gardened-out and broke, Biggles sunburnt from sitting in the middle of the lawn in bright sunshine for several days showing the next-door incomer who’s boss… and Fran spotted a huge fish circling the boat, fin out of the water, just like Jaws.

Apparently he/she’s a well known local resident, having set up home in the marina at least 15 years ago, A Ghost Carp, probably weighing in at over 25 pounds, and as yet no-one has managed to get it to take a lure, despite years of trying. Seems it’s often accompanied by some other large-ish Koi Carp, but we didn’t spot those.

Reluctant to spend another night in the marina, we set sail for the long haul across to The Anchor, (5 minutes to get out of the marina onto the navigation, 1 minute to moor up). Then stayed there through to Sunday, as Pauline, our temporary crew member from the trip south to Godalming, offered to pick one of us at home after returning the car and bring us back via Waitrose in time for Sunday lunch. Nice weather, nicely positioned pub, Father’s Day… it was a leisurely lunch!

Nice to be back on the boat again, as well.