Bromyard By Night

Leaving Song & Dance mid morning, we reached Bromyard in the early afternoon instead of the expected lunchtime as about eight miles out we kept running into “Road Closed Ahead” signs but strangely no posted diversions. Eventually running up against a “Road Closed” sign, and a traffic jam, we managed to turn round, and head off off piste in an attempt to circumnavigate the problem. Unfortunately, a 44 tonne Artic just in front of us had the same idea, but the chosen back road was very winding, very narrow, and the trees rather lower than his trailer. We eventually got out from under, and managed to find our way in. (We subsequently found out that there had been a nasty three-car pile-up on the hill outside Bromyard, blocking the road, and they hadn’t managed – when we got there – to put up diversion signs. Ho hum.

The dancer of Song & Dance  was very excited: it was the first time we’d been to Bromyard since 1993, and her dance troupe had never been formally invited, so this was forgivable.

The Friday night highlight for the Morris fraternity is a torchlight procession in the rain…

Bromyard Folk FestivalBromyard Folk Festival

After assembling in the Rose and Lion (the only pub so named in the UK, it seems),

Bromyard Folk Festival - And They're OffBromyard Folk Festival - Jackstraws Morris

the Mayor, Town Crier and dignitaries head off, followed by a bunch of Morris persons.

Bromyard Folk FestivalBromyard Folk Festival

Jackstraws sounded very subdued when walking compared with the North West Clog side Earlsdon, who sounded more like Jackboots Morris (not to mention their very large drum). SWMBO has history with Earlsdon, so your scribe must be circumspect.

Bromyard Folk Festival - Great Western MorrisBromyard Folk Festival - Jackstraws Morris

The Hop Pole pub/hotel at the other end of town had closed, but as tradition demands, each side still danced one dance outside. Great Western Morris danced the Upton On Severn Stick Dance after setting fire to their sticks, while Jackstraws  – who also dance the UoSSD – decided instead to wash their hankies, and danced their signature dish, the much more delicate Fieldtown Shepherd’s Hey. So far so good…

Derbyshire Calling

And so, on Tuesday morning we bid our last farewell to the Captain, locked Song & Dance down through Wood End Lock with lumps in our throats, and shortly thereafter turned the 90 degree bend that marks the Southern-most point of the Trent & Mersey Canal before making a mile-long beeline for Fradley Junction.

We managed to transit all the locks at Fradley without drama; for the first time in many years and for the first time in Song & Dance we went straight ahead at the Mucky Duck and stayed on the Trent & Mersey, rather than turning back South on the Coventry Canal. It was busy enough that we didn’t stop to take any (more) photos. We’ve loads from years ago and it hasn’t changed much!

Stopping for lunch at Alrewas – a nice village – we paid the obligatory visit to Coates the Butcher, a renowned emporium. Haven’t been there for far too long! Unfortunately the fridge and freezer were stuffed already, and all we had room for was a few rashers of their splendid bacon.

We carried on through the lovely Alrewas river section before getting to one of our least favourite parts of the Trent & Mersey: there’s a long section past Barton Turns where you are effectively the hard shoulder for the very busy and noisy A38. Pushing on, we finally tied up at Branston Water Park 20 minutes after the skies opened. A long day for us – 9.1 miles and 12 locks. Wet and knackered!

Branston Water ParkBranston Water Park

The weather in the morning was much better, so we went for a walk around the Branston Water Park lake before setting off. Didn’t see anything terribly noteworthy, not even a pickle jar, but it was a pleasant stroll.

Branston Water Park

This convolvulus looked kind of lonely…

Branston Water Park

… and the council had thought of everything, even installing a goose park.

Pushing off late on Wednesday morning, we were soon in the middle of Burton-on-Trent’s Shobnall Fields for lunch before ending up on Willington’s Visitor Moorings for the night. They’ve moved the co-op to the other side of the railway since we were last here, doubling the walk. Progress, I suppose.

And so it came to pass on Thursday morning that with Bromyard Festival calling SWMBO walked across the road the the station, and caught several trains back to Stone and Aston Marina to retrieve the car, while someone else – single-handed – took Song & Dance a mile or so down the canal and into the boat megalopolis and warren known as Mercia Marina – Europe’s largest inland marina, apparently.

There was only one taxi at Stone station, and two people got off the train. The were both going to Aston Marina to retrieve cars! Result. Madam was soon back in Derbyshire, and we began the serious task of packing for a weekend away.

Bye Bye Biggles

It’s been very strange getting used to boating without the Captain. At home, he came and went at will, pottering around the garden, and keeping his eye out for Otto, the next door neighbour villain. We came and went at will too, enjoying one-another’s company when around without paying a great deal of attention to each other’s whereabouts. Sometimes all three of us would take a stroll out the back garden and up the bridle path to the local cemetery, and at times he would honour us by sleeping on a lap or the end of the bed.

On the boat, it was different altogether. You couldn’t cast off without checking he was on board; if he slipped ashore at a lock or a bridge you had to wait until he returned after going about his business (or venture out and try and catch him if what he really wanted was a snooze in the bushes). When mooring up for the night, we were always trying to find places we thought he’d like – and got better at it over the years. When he went out his cat flap at night, one always had half-an-ear open for his return, or for an unexpected splash… He was always on our minds, apart from the rare occasions we slipped up or were distracted.

Now we don’t have any such constraints – it’s proving very odd.

Rather than being conventional and burying him in his back garden, at Fran’s suggestion we’d had him cremated with the intention of scattering his ashes somewhere suitable on the canal system. But where?

It needed to be somewhere we’d cruise past on occasion, and somewhere he’d been happy to stay.

Wood End Lock Approach

We ended up deciding that the spot that best met both requirements was just above Wood End Lock, near Fradley Junction on the Trent and Mersey Canal. It may not look much, and it might seem odd to pick a place where he was really fed up with boating in a heatwave. But he liked it enough to chill out for two days of sunshine, just popping back to the boat totally unconcerned for a snack before heading back to his hidey-hole. Nice thick hedgerows and trees to hide in, with open fields the other side. Just what the doctor ordered.

There are boats coming and going at the lock just a hundred yards away, and a couple of residential boats on the other bank, so if he’s restless he’s got someone to haunt…

So, in very different weather to his first visit, we did the deed in cold mizzly rain, scattering his ashes in the bushes, and bidding him a final farewell, toasting his memory with a glass of Jura Malt Whisky (ironically one of the Hebridean islands he hadn’t visited).

We didn’t think he was going to be able to join us on the boat at all this year, but thanks to his superb veterinary staff, he had a pleasant final spring cruise against all the odds. We still miss him like heck: our good sport,  our Brave Companion of the Road (and waterways!).

R.I.P. dear Biggles.

Handsacre Hawk

The section of the Trent and Mersey Canal from Great Haywood down to Fradley Junction has been well travelled by us over the years, since long before Song & Dance’s travels. There’s nice countryside down to Rugely, then an interesting if built up section through the town, then Armitage and Handsacre, before becoming rural again through Kings Bromley. It’s always interesting to see what Armitage Shanks have been making: sometimes their works is knee deep in pallet loads of wash hand basins, sometimes toilets, sometimes bidets.

For as long as we could remember, somewhere along the long line of back gardens open to the canal through the three towns, there were two adjacent gardens with aviaries, and invariably, a sizeable hawk sitting on a perch watching the world go by. But we were always past before we knew it. Last time, we made a point of noting it was in Handsacre, so after negotiating the troublesome single file ex-tunnel near there, the camera was ready…

Hawk

HawkHawk

We think this chap is a Red Tailed Hawk a.k.a. a Chickenhawk, but could be wrong. Alternative suggestions on a blue beer token to the usual address please…

Himalayan Revenge & Ninja Terrapins

One thing that was very noticeable on our Caldon Canal expedition and parts of the Trent & Mersey, was how prevalent Himalayan Balsam is becoming. It’s bad enough that R. Ponticum is taking over the Scottish Highlands and making large chunks look like Himalayan Rainforest; now they’re taking over the English canals and rivers too.

The Balsam might look quite pretty with its pink flowers, and you can maybe even make jam or wine from it, but for the waterways it’s seriously bad news. Desperately invasive, it takes over everything, then during the winter dies right back leaving the banks bare and open to weather and erosion. The Inland Waterways Association organise regular Balsam Bashing sessions, but clearly they’re not enough!

And what about the similarly pink coloured Himalayan Sea Salt that’s taking over trendy restaurant and dinner tables and supermarket shelves, with its supposed health benefits? Not to mention the large blocks of it turned into bookends and table lamps…

Where is this Himalayan Sea? And why have they got it in for us?

On the T&M near Kings Bromley we did spot a large Terrapin sitting on a dead branch over the water looking threatening: perhaps this is the start of the fight back. Or will the IWA soon be organising Terrapin Trapping sessions as well?

With the de facto invasion of the American Signal crayfish chappies, there already seems to be considerable debate about whether Crayfish Catching is a “good thing” or not – interfering with nature seldom has predictable results. Mind you, the easily caught river ones are rumoured to be excellent lightly boiled and slathered in mayo. Not sure we fancy one that’s been filtering dirty muddy canal water all its life, though.

Shugborough Again & More Ceilings

It may have been a dull and damp Sunday, but as we were moored just by the back entrance to Shugborough Hall, our friends Mon & Phil drove down from Bramhall in Cheshire for the day, to join us and have a wander round. We had been round the hall about ten years or more years ago, but somehow they never had. And we’d had a lovely time with them last year doing the stereotypical National Trust bit…

Even allowing for the weather it was something of a Curate’s Egg. It seems that the Trust had acquired the estate a long time ago, mainly because it was a rare example of a complete estate, with all the trimmings. They were less interested in the Hall, and for many years the building had been run/maintained/whatever by Staffordshire Council. But very recently the NT had taken it back, and were clearly only just getting their act together. Their new interpretive stuff clearly hadn’t all been completed.

Patrick Lichfield’s apartment (no photos allowed) were much as we remembered, and in honour of the accidental theme of last year’s cruise, here are some splendid ceilings from the hall.

Shugborough House

Shugborough HouseShugborough House

We went for a wander outside, but it was pretty cold and miserable.

Shugborough HouseShugborough Hall

Some of the  borders were admittedly splendid though.

Shugborough HouseShugborough Estate

After heading back to the boat for tea and biccies, we ended up nattering for so long it was too late to move Song & Dance on a bit as per original plan, and the only sensible thing to do was to decamp to the Clifford Arms for dinner again, this time with Mon & Phil. We think they felt marginally obligated… they’d left their car in the pub’s car park all day. Another excellent day.

Aston Marina

Aston Marina

We rather liked Aston Marina, as marinas go. Nice open layout, set in pleasant countryside, reasonable walking distance to Stone, and a rather good if a bit pricey restaurant on site. Good job we don’t moor there normally.

Aston MarinaAston Marina

The welcoming committee took no time at all in saying hello, closely followed by demanding food with menaces.

Aston Marina

The local security guard made sure nothing untoward happened.

With the laundry maid keeping the washing machine going flat out, on Friday morning the chauffeur commandeered a taxi back to The Holly Bush near Leek, to pick up the car and relocate it to Aston. It might prove useful to go to Bromyard Festival next weekend, but dragging the car around with the boat is becoming a real drag. Not for much longer, we hope.

Saturday morning, we headed off in pleasant weather down the well-trodden path to Great Haywood.

Canada Geese

Just outside the marina, this bunch of geese had taken over the cow’s watering hole.

And – lucky us – we found a spot right in the middle of the Great Haywood Visitor Moorings, and headed off to The Clifford Arms, where food was plentiful and surprisingly cheap for us southerners.

Gone Fishin’. Or Shootin’. Or Dancin’.

Leaving Etruria, we pottered up the mile or so to Festival Park Marina, expecting to find it full of Black Prince Boats, but the hire-boat pontoons were empty, the place locked up and seemingly deserted. WInding the boat and tying up outside, a phone call extracted the duty chap who explained that they had umpteen boats arriving later that day (hence they couldn’t accommodate us), but he was able to relieve us of all our black water. To our great relief. And so, considerably lighter, we headed back down to Etruria, descended Stoke Locks with little fuss and a little rain, and trekked round Stoke-on-Trent.

Beer O'ClockShingles

We’d passed this intriguingly scruffy Stoke boatyard on numerous occasions over the years, but never with camera in hand. Wood shingles for a cabin – whatever next?

Line DancingShooting Range

Many boatyards provide loos and maybe a shower. Quite why this one feels the need to provide this rather bizarre collection of facilities, let alone get the spelling wrong, has always been a puzzle. One of these days I think we’ll call in…

Still, one can’t help thinking of Brad Paisley’s utterly wonderful Fishing Song I’m Gonna Miss Her.

Continuing on we reluctantly came to the conclusion that we wouldn’t make Stone that day so moored up at the bottom of Meaford Locks.

Thursday saw us locking down into Stone itself; a quick trip into the chandlers to replace a piling clip lost in the mud, and – first time ever – we moored up in one of the few prime spots in the middle of town just above the pub. A shame we weren’t staying other than for lunch and a quick shop – they’re never available when you want to stay for a while.

And so to Aston Marina, where we got plugged in, got the washing machine on, and started on the laundry pile. Then went for a splendid dinner at their very excellent restaurant. Two weights off our mind in one day, but a weight on the waistline…

The Best Laid Plans

We’d dawdled rather longer than expected on the Caldon Canal, what with trains, cars, towpath walks and the like, and some things were needing attention. The dirty laundry pile was becoming excessive, a pump-out would soon be urgent, and we really needed to get the car back home: dragging it around was becoming a drag.

And then SWMBO said “Jackstraws Morris are dancing at Bromyard Folk Festival in 10 days. Without Biggles to look after, if we kept the car up here for a bit longer, we could go, couldn’t we… I’ve brought my kit!”

Stoke’s Festival Park Marina had helped out several times before: moorings with electric for the washing machine – tick; relaxed about leaving cars – tick; pump-out facilities – tick. Except that they were full when we wanted to be there. We could probably get a pump-out, but as for mooring, no chance. CaRT have self-service pump-out machines at Park Lane Wharf (on the way but broken) and Etruria (on the way), but you need a special “credit” card to operate those. Handily, these are only available by mail order (useful when on a boat) or from very rare retailers nowhere near the facility. And these pump-out stations a rare enough that carrying spare cards around is a bit like giving CaRT a long term loan – we haven’t needed one in three years, and the Environment Agency ones on the rivers use a different card. And in any case, that didn’t solve the laundry problem. So we ended up re-planning, and booked ourselves into Aston Marina, just south of Stone for a couple of days, and decided we’d better get a move on.

So off we set. Waving goodbye to The Holly Bush on a pleasant Bank Holiday Monday morning we climbed back up Hazelhurst Locks, pottered past Park Lane Wharf, down through Stockton Brook Locks (the abandoned railway there still had its tracks, but trees were growing through them there) and managed to moor at Milton again. Milton on the Tuesday after a Bank Holiday was much like Milton on a Monday, apart from the café being open. They needn’t have bothered…

And then we finished off the Caldon Canal, and moored up at Etruria Junction, frustratingly close to the pump-out facilities, frustratingly far from any means of using them. It’s a major CaRT depot, but no-one was able or interested in helping us out. Apparently the Park Lane Wharf one had been fixed earlier that day, but the chap said the biggest cause of failures was misuse of the magic cards, so perhaps it’s all a plot to persuade the powers that be that they are so under used there really is no demand for them. After all, they charge more for you to do it yourself than most boatyards/marinas charge to do it for you. One of life’s mysteries.

Make Mine a Large One

At various points cruising or perambulating along the Caldon Canal we came across boats that caught our attention. We’d seen the immaculate butty Jam Butty before, moored near Hazelhurst Locks on Song & Dance’s maiden voyage, but this trip her equally immaculate tug Jammie Dodger was nowhere to be seen. Found out later at gossip central (The Holly Bush) that it was on a cruise to Llangollen and back. How nice.

The same morning, we’d seen Chardonnay and Tempranillo, the latter reminding us of the splendidly titled Rioja Bye Baby seen down at Heyford on our first year. Meanwhile…

Whisky

Caol Ila reminded us that it was way past time we headed up to the Hebrides for some malted therapy. The same morning we also saw Comfortably Numb which seemed appropriate.

Alternative TherapyRetired

We rather liked Alternative Therapy as a name. And for many years every time we passed through Stone, Tina Paramore’s two boats were moored in the same place, but were missing this May. Now we know why: wonder if that little word at the bottom was her last piece of brushwork.

Far-Canal

Finally, bemused that Loughborough wasn’t all that far away, the chief cook took some time…