Category Archives: Music

A Moonlight Swim in Crappy Peterborough

Tuesday morning dawned fair for a quick run into Peterborough.

Peterborough Town Key and EmbankmentPeterborough Town Key and Embankment

Peterborough Town Key and Embankment

The lengthy town quay is nicely screened by willows, and – at least at one end – amazingly close to the town centre and main shopping street. The only snag is that the area is home, in the day, to hundreds of Canada geese, dozens and dozens of swans, myriad pigeons and so on. They don’t even bother to move out the way for humans, though rouse themselves for dogs and cats. Some of the local population take it upon themselves to feed the birds on a positively industrial scale: whole loaves, large carrier bags stuffed full of bagels, even a couple of pounds of raw mince left on the side. Somewhat similar, only much worse then Wellingborough, where one boater was grumpily opining that the Eastern European and Asian immigrant communities regarded them as free food and went out catching them at night – perhaps they are all Daily Mail readers. Don’t know if it’s true, but it sounds like a good plan, because they really do make an awful mess, even if it doesn’t smell as bad as dog-poo. On many places on the Grand Union, there were pretty signs exclaiming “There is no dog-poo fairy…” but what the whole waterways system really needs is a goose-poo fairy. And it’s not just the banks: the water is full of muck, feathers, etc. which goes nicely with the duckweed.

After a nasty outbreak of traipsing round the shops, we headed out again for dinner, and observed that there were large numbers of people streaming from every direction towards the London Road Bridge right by where we were moored. Just over the other side, within earshot, was the home of Peterborough Football Club, and we guessed there must have been a mid-week match. Somewhat worried about noisy or riotous post-match shenanigans, we saw and heard nary a peep: checking the next morning showed they’d been trounced 4-1 by Charlton, so I guess there were a lot of subdued fans walking home.

The Captain normally has the run of the  boat at night, and access to the outside world; where he feels comfortable he makes the occasional trip landside to explore and do his business before returning for refreshment, but he usually spends most of the night asleep on a chair or curled up on the end of the bed. If awake, we know when he comes in, as there’s a slight thump as he jumps down from the gunwale onto the cratch locker, followed by a quiet noise from the cat flap, inevitably followed by crunching noises as he gets stuck into his food. Sometime later we might hear him pad down the length of the boat and jump on the end of the bed.

Unable to sleep (or perhaps ruminating on Canada goose recipes), the chief cook got up at about 03:00, and it being a fine moonlit night went out on the back deck for some air. Don’t know where they go at night, but the only wildlife in sight were four bunnies (heaven knows where from) and a bat. It was clear Sir wasn’t aboard, so she called him once or twice, but there was no sign. We’d earlier caught him sloping off down the quay some distance to the Peterborough Beer Festival that was in full swing – perhaps he’d gone back to check it was all quiet.

He normally comes when called at night, but there was no sign, so SWMBO dutifully tossed and turned, worrying that he was out so late.

Some half hour later we heard the usual thump as he jumped down into the cratch, followed by the flip-flap of the cat flap. But no munching noises: just a high speed run down the length of the boat and a slight “meep” as he launched himself onto the end of the bed – soaking wet – and demanding a towel rub down with extreme prejudice.

Don’t know what had happened: if he’d gone in the water anywhere near the boat he’d have been covered with duckweed, feathers and miscellaneous rubbish, but he was just “clean” wet, and his head and spine weren’t really all that wet, just a bit damp. Another of life’s little mysteries.

A Surfeit of Nutters

Leaving the Captain to re-establish his home base and recover from his ear-drops induced indignities, Sidmouth Folk Week was, err, Sidmouth Folk Week. If you’ve been there, you’ll know what we mean. If you haven’t, it’s about time you went: it’s only been going 61 years, and the Logistics Support Officer(a mere beginner) has only notched up some 35 consecutive years. Bit of a shock to be working, with places to be at specific times, but once a year doesn’t hurt I guess. It’s nine days totally orthogonal to the usual universe.

As Biggles and boating don’t figure, and – unfortunately Morris Dancing does – just a few pictures…

Sally & Eilidh

Sally Poozie and Eilidh Poozie gi’in it laldy on the main concert stage. Sally Barker, picked by the recently sacked Tom Jones, came dangerously close to winning BBC’s The Voice but common sense prevailed. A folkie winning a major competition like that – don’t be daft.

 Halsway Hothouse

Put 35 teenagers/complete strangers together for a week’s intensive music making at the splendid Halsway Manor, and what do you get? A stage full of enthusiastic players and singers playing and singing their hearts out (although the backstage medic suggested some other likely results too).

Britannia Coconut Dancer from BacupBritannia Coconut Dancers from Bacup

A couple of pictures of some Nutters… there is absolutely no doubt that the weirdest folk dance tradition in the world comes from Bacup in Lancashire. No contest.

Jackstraws Morris from near FarnhamJackstraws Morris from near Farnham

Some pictures of a few other nutters, this time from Surrey.

Britannia Coconut Dancers from BacupBritannia Coconut Dancers from Bacup

And the chief cook asked for some more pictures of the Nutters. How could one refuse?

Sunset, Scratches and Another Musician

Late boater

As if the idyllic mooring near Yardley Gobion wasn’t enough, a late boater made us look out the window and find a spectacular sunset.

Sunset near Yardley GobionSunset near Yardley Gobion

But the next morning, the Captain let us know he wasn’t happy (and not just with the weather). He had some unpleasant inflammation and scratches round his ears and forehead, sometimes  a sign that he’d been in a fight. We bathed them with the vet’s answer to Dettol, and – being nowhere near a vet – hoped they would clear up if we kept things clean.

Aiming to reach Stoke Bruerne, we moored up just below the bottom lock of the seven in the early afternoon, walked up into the village in showery and uninspiring weather, somewhat preoccupied with the possibility of needing to find a vet.

Frank's BoatTowcester

Moored across from us was the splendidly named Zappa – a rather different musician to Muddy Waters – and the puzzling Lactodorum which clearly had something to do with milk. Subsequent investigation suggests it means “Dairyman’s Fort” and was the Roman name for nearby Towcester, where there was a vet if we needed one.

Somewhat preoccupied by the Captain’s difficulties and wondering what there was on the boat for dinner, we passed The Navigation pub, discovered that they were doing two sirloin steak dinners and a half-decent bottle of wine for £20, and decided that would do.

Great Linford

Just on the way out of MK lies the village of Great Linford, still laid out like the mediaeval village, with the manor house, church, alms-houses and pub all close to hand. A spot on the wharf set us up for a mid-afternoon Guinness, a wander around and dinner at the pub. Sometimes life’s hard.

Great Linford Wharf

The pub from Song & Dance.

Great Linford Alms HousesGreat Linford tourist

The alms-houses.

Entrance for big peopleEntrance for small people

The church, with entrances for large and small people.

Milton Keynes Arts CentreMilton Keynes Arts Centre

The old barns, now Milton Keynes Arts Centre.

Great Linford Manor HouseGreat Linford Manor House

The manor house, under refurbishment. Apparently owned by the chap who’s chairman of the local football team, there’s a recording studio too.

Great LinfordDownhill to the boat

The main street, which passes the pub, and continues on down to the the boat.

A lovely place to while away a sunny Saturday afternoon.

The Leaving of Linslade

Moored up in pleasant countryside just North of the the urban delights of the Leighton Buzzard/Linslade metropolis, we rued our fate-inviting observation that there was hardly any boat traffic around, as loads of Wyvern boats went steaming past at OMG O’clock, running late for their 9:30 handover. Actually, we must be approaching the school holidays, as quite a few other boats were on the move as well – perhaps heading home for some peace and quiet in August.

Even without that, it’s not exactly quiet, because there’s a long gentle curved three mile stretch of the A4146 between two roundabouts. On exit from said roundabouts, the owners of high-revving powerful motorcycles seem to find it a perfect spot to demonstrate just how amazingly small their penises are. Rudely awoken several more times before elevenses, and with several further demonstrations during the early afternoon, the locals must be a bit fed up with it – even worse than Mr Branson’s Incredibly Noisy Trains.

Setting off, we soon passed The Globe Inn, a well known watering hole, and started running alongside the railway again. And speaking of trains, this stretch, through what was quiet countryside then, received some unwanted publicity back in 1963.

Globe Inn

The low point of this section of the Grand Union is Milton Keynes (no jokes necessary ), but before reaching it (is it called the bottom pound?) there were still a few locks to go, including Soulbury Three Locks. Maybe it was the proximity to transport, but all of a sudden we had a lot more boats moored up on the towpath for the duration: couldn’t see some them moving every two weeks.

Continuous Moorers?Sunken Cruiser

The canal widens out and becomes almost river-like for a while, but while we suspect that Muddy Waters was named in honour of that legendary bluesman McKinley Morganfield, it was kind of appropriate here too, especially as the pound was a bit low.

Grand Union River?Grand Union River?Muddy Waters

At Soulbury Three Locks, there were some CaRT volunteers actively trying to manage the traffic into sharing locks to preserve water (but fortunately still no mention of the R Word); it was certainly pouring all over some of the top gates.

Soulbury Three LocksSoulbury Three Locks

We can understand why some boaters clutter up their roof with supplies of wood, coal, bicycles and the likes, but one of the things that constantly amazes us is the number of boats looking more like waterborne Rag & Bone carts, carrying every imaginable piece of scrap wood as well as all sorts of rubbish of little conceivable use. Sort of mobile landfill sites, really: a couple of (relatively tame and tidy)examples passed through while we partook of lunch at the conveniently situated but oddly named pub The Three Locks.

RA-Bone... RA-Bone...

Rather delayed, we ended up passing through Stoke Hammond lock and, needing milk, called it a day and wandered into the village for supplies. Only one lock to go to the bottom pound and the delights of MK, but still within earshot of the minimally endowed motorcyclists, sadly.

Ecclesiastes 3:1 and the Wet Dog Shake

“To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven” and this must be the season of the tern. The crew seem to remember a group with an avian name like “The Birds” singing a Pete Seeger song with these words, and the chorus “There  is a season, tern, tern, tern”, but maybe the old grey cells are failing. We never knew you could see so many of the handsome if noisesome seabirds inland, and what a pleasure they are.

Anyway, after an evening watching a couple of terns dive bombing the winding hole,  soon after setting off from the end of the Wendover in bright sunshine the next morning we’d acquired some accompanying entertainment. Wheeling and spiralling around the boat, sometimes coming within a foot or so one’s head, and sometimes even pulling up into an Immelmann turn (a WW1 aerobatic manoeuvre much beloved of the other Biggles and his chums).

Don’t know how they can see through the murky water stirred up by our transit, but  at one point, literally just behind the boat, a tern dived in four times: the first three it came up empty-beaked, but the fourth time it was successful,  and emerged with a sizeable fish and flew off to find some chips to go with it.

But what we’d never seen before (and you’d have to be fairly close to see it)… on the third dive it went deeper than the other, and when it had reached about 6 feet on the climb out, it did a wonderful “wet dog shake” from beak to tail while still airborne. Never seen that before…

Tring Tring and the R Word

The Tring summit pound is only three miles long, and most of it is in a steep wooded cutting (cue a pathetic excuse for one of the cook’s favourite bits of music – heavens don’t they look so young).

So not much to see, but after lunch, when the rain stopped, the interrupt free section was most welcome, and we spotted a Little Egret flying overhead above the cutting, up the canal. We’d decided to head down the Wendover Arm, off the main line – it’s currently being resurrected all the way to Wendover, and the end of the first section looked to be in pleasant countryside, close to the several reservoirs around Tring needed to supply all the water flowing downhill off the summit to Brentford, Milton Keynes, Wendover and Aylesbury.

Bulbourne JunctionBulbourne Junction

The sun came out as we approached Bulborne Junction, where the Wendover Arm turns off, and the main line starts its long descent. Just before, one of the old canalside buildings seemed to have been taken over by a metalwork sculpture emporium.

Bulbourne JunctionBulbourne Junction

The turn onto the Wendover Arm just by Marsworth Top Lock is interestingly tricky and a bit tight for a longish boat. (Crunch).

Intrepid SteererEnd of the Water

There’s quite a flow on the arm as it’s a feeder for the main line, and a lot of water is pumped up from the reservoirs not far from the current end of the navigable section. Also, the cut is narrow, with some tight bends, and poorly positioned moored boats. Add to that the distractions of warm sunshine, pleasant open scenery, hundreds of damselflies and dragonflies buzzing and zooming around, and a common tern following the boat doing gannet impersonations just behind us, and it was an interesting steering challenge, but we made it to the end. Where there was indeed a most pleasantly rural spot to moor up (and after a quick exploratory foray up the path to check out the facilities) take a well earned break.

Biggles returns for teaCrew tea break

The starboard side of the boat hadn’t been so perfectly positioned since we started out, and was in desperate need of wash and brush up, so next morning – unable to find any willing gang of Eastern Europeans with a pressure wash in the adjacent field – a start was made before the sun became too hot. And although it really looks nice when it’s done, there really is an awful lot of boat paintwork to wash and polish just on one side, let alone the front, back and other side. There’s no way you could do the whole boat in one day, so somewhere’s always dirty!

Wendover Winding HoleWalking to Wilstone

With the promise of a farm shop (for her) and café (for him) at the far end, a post lunch walk over the hill  – the pretty way – to Wilstone Reservoir seemed necessary, even though it was getting pretty hot again. We were moored up just by the winding hole: you can just make out the boat in the picture above.

Unwatered SectionUnwatered Section

The route took us back over the unwatered section of the canal currently under restoration. Apparently that section was always leaky from day one, and the main challenge is making it watertight for the first time.

Wilstone Reservoir

Wilstone Reservoir looked very low, and while we were waiting a CaRT chap turned up in a van with a clipboard taking measurements, and a long chat ensued. With no significant rain since Easter they were getting decidedly twitchy, on two fronts. Apart from the obvious lack of water, they were beginning to worry about blue green algae. The reservoir had numerous hay bales dumped in it, which is supposed to help prevent it, but the jury’s out on how effective that is. And if the algae starts up, CaRT can’t pump water from the reservoir into the canal system, even if there’s any water to pump. And we’ve just seen that Daventry Reservoir has a suspected outbreak.

So there’s beginning to be mutterings about the “R” word: restrictions (on navigation). Wouldn’t be surprised – let’s hope they’re not too onerous.

Anyway, we saw some more Little Egrets on the island, and we made it to the farm/tea shop before they closed, so that’s all right. And there was a pleasant wild flower meadow to wander round as well. On the return journey we bumped into a bird photographer that had travelled out for the day all the way from East London to the Tring Reservoirs despite rail and tube strikes, so this is clearly a popular spot. He’d failed to get any decent pictures of a tern, so perhaps our pathetic attempt isn’t too bad.

Tern & Swan

An Apsley Weekend

Not really knowing what to expect from this kind of “waterside development” marina, Apsley proved a surprisingly amenable spot. About 60 boats, a large convenience store/small supermarket on site, several restaurants, everyone very friendly, and the part-time warden (who lives on-site on a boat) affable and helpful. Who could ask for more?

A main line railway station just across the bridge, a big supermarket and DIY shed 5 minutes walk away, and the centre of Hemel Hempstead within easy reach… all in all we were surprised to find they’d got any space at all for itinerants, particularly as the visitor mooring fee was pretty reasonable. The only downside was the area’s frankly bizarre parking scheme run by an independent company. The deliberately confusing notices and the daily visits from the Schutzstaffel trained parking warden meant the whole scheme was clearly designed to maximise cash flow for the operators rather than provide useable parking at all times of day.

Apsley Marina

Next but one to us were a couple of chaps with a Chihuahua, and next to them a lady with a border collie and an adopted stray cat, so Biggles spent some time initially sorting out the local pecking / hissing / barking order, seemingly without any apparent damage or falling in the water.

Tug, ApsleyBoat For Sale

Just outside were a rather fine tug, and a shiny wide-beam. You often see “Boat for Sale” signs stuck in the windows of boats, but this is the first time we’ve seen one with their own fancy advertising board on the towpath. Must be overpriced…

Unfaithful Cook

Meanwhile, Fran decided to be unfaithful to the Captain, and made a big fuss of Wizz (whose staff were unknown). The boat behind with the pram hood is Shackleton and won the “best boat” award at the big annual bun fight at Crick last year. All sorts of stunning internal hand crafted wizardry and equipment, and an eye-watering price tag to boot. You could probably buy a nice Piper Dutch Barge for less. Surprisingly, the boat was built “on-spec” and sold at the show, rather than being built to the owners’ requirements.

Anyway, with the hot sunny weather, masses of washing was done and dried, and we retired once again to Woodys Vegetarian Café. They have a drinks licence, but we had to bring our own apostrophe…

Fran had jarred her knee somewhere along the line and was rather hors de combat, so we decided to stay another night, and Gill and Tony came over for lunch (Woodys again), then Vicki & Moore brought cakes for tea over later.

All this vegetarian dining and cake eating was beginning to get to us, so on Monday morning, after a few more chores and a protracted chat with Dave the Warden (who was also a musician, and singer with a long-standing 50s cover band) we finally set off to climb up some more locks.

All in all, a pleasant few days, and a pretty good place to moor for longer, we reckon.

Strip Clubs, Floating Classrooms and Music Archives

We were rudely woken up on our moorings near Woolpack Bridge at Hayes by the arrival of a very large and rather odd widebeam barge with two outboard motors (!) clouting our rear end attempting to moor next to us. We’d had a surprisingly quiet night up till then: although only about two miles as the crow flies from Heathrow, we weren’t on the flight path, and well inside any downwind traffic. Didn’t hear a peep from any aircraft, nor the even nearer M4 and Paddington main line. Quite remarkable.

And just “halfway from Heathrow to Uxbridge” the only two establishments close to the bridge access were a Sky Sports Pub/Strip Club with an additional Lap Dancing establishment in the car park, and the strangely deserted brick warehouse, so foot and bike traffic on the towpath was minimal. The Woolpack is apparently one of the most famous strip clubs/pubs outside of Shoreditch, and apparently busiest at lunchtime. Go figure. Anyway, once we’d told the Captain that any pussy at the Woolpack probably wouldn’t be to his taste, he spent the time exploring the overgrown paths into the adjacent country park.

Emerging into the morning light, the driver (I use the word loosely) came up to explain that it was his large car tyre fender that had clouted us, not his boat. He then asked if we were staying the night, as his odd looking boat was a floating classroom, he had a second pick-up the next morning from the same spot, and preferred to leave his boat overnight near others who might keep an eye out for anyone who might try and break in to raid the bar. He then asked if we knew what the large brick outhouse was: he’d attempted to wind the boat there once, went aground, and attracted a large number of security chaps who thought he might be attempting to moor up on that side of the canal.

Woolpack Bridge mooring

And then his party arrived: a crocodile of about thirty kids, holding hands in pairs just like we used to do, all smartly dressed in school uniform, and not one over 5 years old. Given today’s sensitivities, no close up photos were taken, although we all thought they looked sweet and very multicultural. If you look closely you can see them in the distance.

And as we cast off for the delights of West Drayton and Uxbridge, a thought struck us. Why would a floating classroom for primary school kids have a bar?

And as for the brick outhouse: we’d already had a clue from signs down the canal a bit, pointing to “The Old Vinyl Factory”… we were in EMI territory. The old vinyl factory may now be a smart apartment block, but the new building (which Google Street Map shows as just having a entrance sign that reads “EMI”) would seem to be a repository for rare musical stuff – the EMI Music Archive, no less.

Decision Day… Maybe

The plan was to head up past Bull’s Bridge junction (where the canal branches off to Paddington, London and the Regent’s Canal) and visit Uxbridge Boat Centre to collect our pump out cap so lovingly dispatched there from Timbuktu or wherever. And then, come back to the junction and head into London.

But the Captain had obviously been listening to other boaters, who said that moorings were a real problem (let alone cat friendly ones), due to “continuous cruisers moorers” looking for inexpensive digs taking up all the space. (Some 20 boats a month are moving into London at the moment, with none coming out… mooring three and four abreast, something will have to give). The Lee & Stort navigations were nice “once you got north of Hackney Marshes” (quite a way),  word was that Limehouse Basin was running out of water, and anyway the transit from Limehouse up the Thames through the City and Westminster was clearly more challenging that we’d originally thought…

Taken with the utter conviction of the weather forecasters that it was going to be hot hot hot, meant that after a short committee meeting the chairpuss decided that plans to do the London Loop would be postponed until a more suitable time. Any specific trips to London attractions (are there any?) could be done by train during the non-boating season. Ah well, we’d rather fancied visiting C#H by boat, but never mind.

Setting off in the already warm sunshine, we’d just emptied Hanwell Bottom Lock, got Song & Dance in and shut the gates when another boat arrived. Opening back up to let him in, we found it was the boat that had led our little convoy down the Thames. Slightly puzzled by the notice at the bottom, which said “Want some help with the Hanwell Locks? Call one of our Tuesday Volunteers…” we wondered what we were supposed to do on any other day of the week.

Anyway, sharing big locks with another crew is always easier, there appeared to be plenty of water, as the pound above was overflowing, and – miraculously – a couple of volunteers appeared to help. We didn’t tell them they’d got the day wrong…

 What water shortage?

Eight locks later, past lunchtime, with it getting seriously hot, we proceeded out of the last one followed by our companions spurred on by the news that Bulls Bridge junction was only 20 minutes away, and there was a huge Tesco superstore with its own moorings so we could stock up on cold beer etc. etc.

The canal had other ideas. Considering the area, the water was surprisingly clear. It was also full of chopped reeds (whether from a bank cutting exercise that naughtily threw the stuff in the canal, or chopped by propellers off the liberal amount growing underwater we don’t know) and rubbish. Going slower and slower, and losing steerage, we just managed to make it to the bank, and indulged in that favourite pastime called “going down the weed hatch”. It’s even more fun when (a) the engine is hot and (b) it’s a stinking hot day.

Last time we had a major blockage it was caused by an M&S ladies’ twin set near somewhere posh. This time, half an hour’s cursing and swearing extracted large quantities of reeds, some very fine pond weed, several massacred plastic bags, and a sari.

Tesco Dry Dock, Bull's BridgeBull's Bridge looking up Paddington Arm

Arriving rather later at Bull’s Bridge, Tesco was suitably raided, and with a look at the restored dry dock under the car park, and a long look up the Paddington Arm, we set off towards Uxbridge looking for the first suitable mooring.

DSCF2431

Wandering through Hayes, several bridges had access to shops and services, and were hence busy with boats and towpath drinkers, before we came to Hollybush Bridge, where there were pleasant mooring on one side next to an overgrown country park, and a large, quiet, windowless brick warehouse type of place on the other. The moment we stopped to check it out, Biggles jumped on shore to check it out and disappeared into the woods. That’ll do us, then…