Now That’s What I Call Rhubarb

Our previous night’s idyllic moorings were on the edge of the Sutton Place estate, and soon after casting off we were running between the very long drive leading to the A3 and the A3 itself, before entering the outskirts of Guildford. Back to “civilisation” not so much with a bang, more a dull traffic roar.

Last year we had seen quite a lot of Gunnera Manicata (man-eating rhubarb) growing along the water, but this year couldn’t recall seeing any so far. So this impressive chap, in the middle of Guildford, came as rather a surprise… Wonder if you can make jam from it?

Gunnera, Guildford

Anyway, we were soon past the retail sheds on the Guildford bypass bypass (the road that used to  be the A3 when we were younger), and happily moored up at Dapdune Wharf and ready to hit the shops in Guildford.

Miles and Miles from Guildford

In recent years we’ve been spending the end of May / early June up north of the border, not hearing cuckoos that often but sometimes seeing their young. Another serenade at breakfast seemed a bit late in the spring/summer to be hearing it call.

A short cruise down to Newark Lock and Priory (where we walked during the Christmas period) and we picked up an additional crew member for the morning. Fortunately, there were no red boards this time! A local ex-morris dancer (but we won’t hold that against her), and partner of a serious bird enthusiast, Pauline concurred that it seemed late to be hearing cuckoos in Surrey. Global something-or-other no doubt.

Papercourt LockPapercourt Lock

Papercourt LockCrew for the day

This stretch of the navigation is truly delightful, meandering through meadows and woods  between Pyrford and Ripley, then around Send and Sutton Court, rarely coming close to civilisation. Papercourt Lock is pretty much in the middle of nowhere, although there are a few boats moored here. The New Inn at Send appeared just in time for a thirst-slaking drink and late lunch.

Flood LockTrigg's Lock

The Worsfold Gates (a flood lock) were open, and the remote Trigg’s Lock saw the arrival of Chris the lock keeper/lengthsman, who we had been primed to say “hello” to: he and his missus are good friends of some other old friends who have been following the Captain’s progress. He told us about a good mooring spot near Send Church Bridge (from which it appears impossible to walk to Send Church), with the grounds of the old Getty estate Sutton Place on the other side.

With just the occasional light aircraft heading out of Fairoaks for their local training area it felt wonderfully remote and peaceful: not even many towpath users. It occurred to me that I must have flown over this neck of the woods hundreds of times in a past life without ever realizing what a lovely quiet and seemingly remote stretch of river/country was here, so close to home.

And so we end the day moored three miles going on one million miles from the middle of Guildford. Well fed, still some red left in the glass, cat asleep; glorious evening sunshine, a roe deer grazing 20 yards away, a fly past from a flock of geese, fish are jumping (and the …) and the iPod shuffle throws up Burland singing The Blacksmith. Perfect.

Following the Heron Home

After three nights in Pyrford Marina on precarious moorings being blown around by the wind and rain (no pontoon or finger posts, just roped up at the back and slack ropes onto a pole halfway down the boat) , the washing was all done and dried, and the crew were going stir-crazy. With the water tank at the front of the boat, and a food-grade hose that only reaches halfway down the boat, we were going to have to move somewhere on Wednesday morning or run out of water – just turning the boat round clearly wasn’t an option here!

Precarious PyrfordYing Tong

The river continues to provide a source of dreadful boat names: Weyward Lass and the apparently piano-less Steinwey to name but two, so it was a relief to find ourselves moored next to Ripple (cue the Grateful Dead), Ying Tong iddle I po, and Grin and Tonic. The moulded rubber bow “fender” of Ying Tong makes us suspect it was once a Black Prince hire boat – never seen any others like that.

Thankfully Wednesday dawned fair and relatively calm, so after spending most of the morning filling the water tank from a tap that didn’t give much more than a trickle when fully open, and doing some other chores, we set off back onto the Wey. As it was now lunchtime, the only possible course of action was to moor up immediately opposite the marina entrance at The Anchor for Guinness and lunch.

Then a long haul cruise (45 minutes) to moor up at the entrance to Walsham Lock Weir for a walk into Ripley for afternoon tea and cakes at a the cook’s favourite cafe. The walk is familiar, last done in the Christmas Holidays, but much nicer in the warm sunshine! It’s a hard life.

Walsham Weir EntranceFollow The Heron Home

Walsham Lock is a delightful spot to stay for the night: sheltered, just a few boats across the water, a cuckoo calling, deer in the woods opposite, a bit of white noise from the weir lulling one to sleep, and as we got back from Ripley, and a heron to follow home. (Incidentally, we were at the concert where that video was made – seems a long time ago now).

Basingstoke Canal Redux

We’d always been a bit put off by the Basingstoke Canal: apart from some past Easter Rallys at Woking there never seemed to be any boats around when we passed by or over; and it often looked a bit weed infested or overgrown. We’d hear the stories about lack of water, low pounds and subsequent closures, and seen that to go anywhere you needed to book a passage through the various lock flights in advance (not really our style of boating). All a bit intimidating, really. So even a few days before arriving at Thames Lock we weren’t sure how we’d get on, or even if we would make it.

The reality was quite different. The people from Basingstoke Canal Authority (a strange Hampshire & Surrey County Council hybrid who run the canal), the Basingstoke Canal Society (who did most of the restoration and help keep it in good condition) and the Basingstoke Canal Boat Club (who represent the interests of boaters) were all friendly, enthusiastic, and happy to accommodate the Captain’s lack of planning.

We never went aground in any meaningful manner, the locks (although plentiful and all at one end) were pretty vice-less, and by and large much better maintained than those on most of the Canal and River Trust canals. The Rangers / Lock Keepers went out of their way to be helpful, and all in all it was a lovely and drama free trip. The rally and other festivities at Odiham were just the icing on the cake. We’re really glad we made the effort.

As most of the canal is a wildlife haven (we even saw deer in the daytime in several places),  and the water supply at the summit is limited, there is apparently a restriction on the annual number of passages up and down the canal, but at the moment the number of actual visitors doesn’t come anywhere close. That said, mooring – apart from those few but well sited spots specifically set up as mooring sites – is problematical. If numbers increase then more will be needed.

There’s a widely held perception (by boaters, who pay to use the canals), that the Canal and River Trust are more interested in walkers, cyclists and wildlife (who don’t pay anything) than boating and maintaining the navigation. The most frequent comment from passers by on the Basingstoke Canal at locks and on the towpath was “Oh, it’s so nice to see boats actually using the canal, we hardly ever see any”.  Food for thought for CaRT perhaps… particularly given the rumours that Surrey and Hampshire Councils might like them to take over the running from the Canal Authority.

Flaming June

Underestimating the distance, and despite an awfully early Sunday morning coming down start, we arrived with no Ranger/Lock Keeper in sight, but the padlocks were unlocked, and we weren’t expecting any company, so off we went in the cold wind and rain. The Ranger shortly appeared, said we could leave all the lock gates open as someone was coming up (hurrah) and “did you hear about Snail O’Wey?”

Seems that between locks 1 and 2 on Saturday afternoon they had shed their prop, which kind of slows progress down a bit! River and Canal Rescue (the canal equivalent of the AA or RAC) had declined to attend as “it was an accident not a breakdown” which seems a bit mean. They managed to locate the lost propeller but were unable to refit it, and were unceremoniously bow-hauled through the bottom lock by hand. On the Sunday morning someone from the nearby Byfleet Boat Club had arrived and towed them down to the Club’s base on the Wey.

Working slowly down the locks in a single boat (one of those times when even one extra crew member makes a huge difference) there were quite a few Sunday morning runners and dog walkers out, despite the miserable weather.

Turning South onto the Wey, we soon passed the wounded Sail O’Wey at the boat club: the skipper reckoned that pulling all the jute sacking out on the Deepcut flight on Friday might have dislodged/removed the split pin that keeps the prop from falling off. Let’s hope they get sorted out quickly.

Not far down the Wey comes the well known and popular Anchor at Pyrford Lock, immediately opposite Pyrford Marina. Mooring up for a while, the place was still busy with Sunday lunches, but a look at the washing mountain and the next few days’ weather forecast suggested the best plan was to see if the marina could put us somewhere for a couple of nights, with an electric shoreline.

And sure enough, it’s been cold and very windy: definitely not weather to be boating. Even moored up in the sheltered marina, the boat’s been blowing around in the wild weather. And come Tuesday afernoon, it’s still so windy and gusty, and forecast to remain so for another twelve hours despite the rain stopping, that we’re staying put for another night.

2nd of June, and the weather’s more like October in the Hebrides…

Wey Bound in Woking

Meeting up again with Snail O’Wey at St. Johns on Saturday morning, there was some delay as David (who had their boat key) had gone walkabout to help a single boat who was coming up the Goldsworth Locks single handed, having engine problems to boot, and getting a bit stressed out by it all.

Once under way, with the weather improving, the six locks were soon knocked off. The boat coming up was a very odd looking affair altogether, with the engine in the middle of the deck, and a steering system we’d never seen before: a big wooden lever just sticking out the floor which was waggled left and right.

Goldsworth LocksGoldsworth Locks - unusual boat

We waved our farewells to Snail O’Wey at The Bridge Barn: they were carrying on down the Woodham Locks to their home base on the Wey (or so they thought) while we were meeting up with one of Fran’s ex-colleagues/friends Liz, husband Andy and family to take them for a little potter around the sights of Woking.

Liz, Andy and crew

The Down Side

In order to preserve the precious water levels, passage up and down the Basingstoke Locks is strictly controlled. We’d booked to go down the 17 Deepcut and Brookwood locks on the Friday morning, when the weather forecast was, err, disappointing.

Mytchett Canal Centre

Stopping at the Mytchett Canal Centre to check our booking, whether we were going to expect anyone else travelling down – there was – and to say goodbye to the nice people who had made  the canal such a pleasant experience, we moored up at Frimley Lodge Park and had an excellent meal in The Old Wheatsheaf, about 10 minutes walk away.

Snail O'Wey

It’s much easier going down wide locks with a second boat/crew, and as expected, David and Kay in Snail O’Wey  hove into view at 9:00. Even though each boat had two crew, it’s still a slow process, particularly as the weather was rapidly living up to the rubbish forecast.

With a brief break on about the third lock for Snail O’Wey’s captain to disappear down the weed hatch and haul out what looked like a jute sack from around his prop (the reason he was going nowhere fast!), the weather was getting wetter and windier, but the Deepcut locks are relatively sheltered. Halfway down we luckily declared a coffee break just as the skies opened with a vengeance, and by the time we reached the bottom of Brookwood Locks the sun was peering out as we moored up at Brookwood Lye for a late lunch, wet, tired and relieved that the worst was over.

Our companions went on to moor at St. Johns with a “see you tomorrow morning”, as we were both due to go down the Goldsworth Locks on the Saturday morning, then Fran coaxed a local friend to pick her up and whip home to collect the mail and some food for Sir.

Mind Your Head: Low Bridges and Nostalgia

Setting off from what proved to be the longest day’s cruising this year (some 11.5 miles), we were reminded that a couple of road bridges at Fleet were low with a capital L. Coming uphill, with a full water tank, we had squeezed under the Reading Road South and Pondtail Bridges without much ado. But the latter is lower on one side than the other, and coming downhill you approach it on a bend under another higher bridge, without any decent visibility, and you start on the higher side, so it gets lower as you proceed. Ho hum.

Clearly the only thing to do was to fortify ourselves with some Guinness at The Fox & Hounds, Church Crookham, then some shopping in Fleet’s Waitrose.

Fox & Hounds, Church Crookham, Fleet

Many, many Tuesday evenings were spent in the back room of the Fox and Hounds in the late 70s and early 80s: it was the home of Fleet Folk Club of many fond memories, and a musically formative time for the first mate. Going inside was weird: the car park was unchanged, but the inside bore no resemblance to the place we used to know. There was also a 45 minute wait for food, so just a Guinness each way it was. Nostalgia ain’t what it used to be!

At Reading Road South out came the tape measure: our air draft seemed to be about 5ft 9in without dismantling the cratch (not to be tackled lightly), the bridge air draft 5ft 10in. Piling the heavy shopping at the front, we set off very gingerly, and just squeezed under. Pondtail was even more nerve wracking, at the far (lower) side there was less than an inch clearance from the cratch, and the underside of the bridge scarred with many scrape marks from boats that hadn’t quite made it. Memo to self: when the Navigation Notes warn of a low bridge, take it seriously!

Mrs ASBO and broodPlane-spotter FranBiggles follows the trail

Returning to Eelmoor again for the night, it was comforting to see that Mrs Asbo still had eight cygnets, although they were now too big to all climb into the saddle at once, while Mr Asbo seemed quite happy to watch the rest of his family gobbling up duck food from a respectable distance, with only the softest of warning hisses. Perhaps fatherhood has mellowed him.

The chief cook decided to take her post-cruise coffee up the bank and go plane spotting; the Captain followed close behind but soon decided there were more interesting flying objects in the bushes. It’s a peaceful spot, until 06:00Z, when the early take-offs start…

End of the Road

Having retrieved the Captain from his nocturnal exploration of the John Pinkerton II, done a load of washing and drying (yes, the chores still need doing), filled Song & Dance with water and emptied all the various waste receptacles, it was late afternoon. The previous day’s cruise up to the castle (in convoy with the trip boats, in company with all the towpath visitors, mediaeval re-enactors and with our guests on board) had been busy, so we set off to repeat the experience when no-one was around, and spend the night on the castle moorings out in the peace and quiet of the countryside.

It was beautifully peaceful until about 20:00, when the John Pinkerton II arrived with a private charter full of loud silver surfers who had clearly been enjoying a free bar during the cruise up canal, so a walk in the dusk up to the end of the canal seemed in order.

More cygnetsThe remains of Lock 30

Some more freshly baked cygnets were spotted, as were the remains of Lock 30, before reaching the portal of Greywell Tunnel, the end of the canal as far as water is concerned (the end of the navigable section being at the Castle). With a constant temperature and humidity, it’s now an SSSI and one of the most important bat caves in Europe.

Greywell Tunnel entranceGreywell tunnel entrance

On our return to the castle, the rowdy old’uns had departed back to town on their steel gin palace, and we had the castle to ourselves in the setting sun.

Sunset over Odiham Castle

The remains of the octagonal keep are all that’s left, but it’s still pretty impressive.

And a delightfully quiet night ensued, while Biggles caught up on his history homework exploring the castle grounds at night.

Birthday Treats…

It was nice of TPTB to designate the first mate’s birthday as a Bank Holiday, to  celebrate his achievement of official OAP status. Now a genuine old fogey, the sunny morning was spent wandering around some of the Odiham festivities we’d missed.

Odiham Tapestry

The local ladies and girls had banded together to sew a splendid tapestry covering the history of the town from early days to today (spot the Chinook helicopter).

Flower festival

And the local church had a flower festival, with arrangements from dozens of local organisations: an impressive display.

Biggles’ BFF Emma brought her boys over for a birthday burger lunch at The Waterwitch pub, followed by a cruise up to the end of the canal at Odiham castle (where there were still loads of people in the mediaeval village re-enactment) and back. With food, wine, birthday cards, birthday cake, presents and hungry teenagers on board there was fortunately no time or opportunity to take scandalous photographs.

The nice people of the Basingstoke Canal Society had said that for a small donation we could moor up abreast the John Pinkerton II on their private wharf and plug into their ground power. So a quiet evening was spent with more eating and drinking, no access to the outside world, and teaching Biggles how to get ashore across the JP II without falling in or getting lost, in order to conduct his personal business.