Yearly Archives: 2016

2016 Summary–Splendid Ceilings

Well, the original loose plan had been to head North and over the Pennines. We don’t know that area canal-wise well at all. But Storms Desmond and Frank at the end of 2015 had done a lot of damage to the canal infrastructure oop North, and in retrospect, some routes didn’t reopen until much later in the season. So we started off on a meandering route, from Oxford via Warwick to Stratford on Avon on the canal system, then down the Avon and Severn Rivers via Tewkesbury to Gloucester. We travelled down the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal, fell in love with Slimbridge reserve, and at the end thought about getting a pilot to transit down the channel to Bristol, and come home via the Kennet & Avon. But looking at the flow on the Severn, and taking consideration of the fact that if you have to wait several days or weeks for a weather window, then Sharpness is probably not the most amenable stopover, we decided that If we’re going to do this, we’ll do it the other way round, and wait in Bristol or Portishead!

We headed back North with no clear target in sight but there was a section of the Shropshire Union that we’d never seen. So it was back up the Severn to Worcester and Stourport, then back onto the canal system via Kidderminster and the outskirts of Wolverhampton to Nantwich. Our best bet for leaving the boat to go to Sidmouth was a marina on the Llangollen Canal just a few miles (by canal) or a mile and a half (by flying crow) from Nantwich. The Llangollen canal (and the Montgomery) are favourites of ours, so despite it being high season we thought we’d give them a try, and had remarkably few problems with other traffic. Well worth the effort.

To finish off, the Macclesfield Canal was now open again properly, so we went across to Middlewich, down to Kidsgrove, then spent a lovely few weeks journeying back up North on the Macclesfield and Peak Forest canals into Bugsworth Basin. Both “must return” places. By then we’d covered large chunks of England and bits of Wales, so we beat a hasty retreat back down through familiar territory to Cropredy for the winter.

It wasn’t planned, but our route took us past many splendid ecclesiastical piles, and an abiding memory is of loads of wonderful ceilings. Ah well.

All in all, we covered 695 miles, worked through 440 locks, and considered it a great way of doing not much… Wonder where 2017 will take us!

Homeward Bound – Part the Second (Biggles Gets a Ducking)

Ascending the Atherstone Flight of 9 locks on Monday morning, having lost another chip from a tooth, the chief navigator complained of toothache, which was getting worse. And it was the one that had been causing trouble earlier in the cruise. Tying up at the visitor moorings above the top lock, a dental appointment was secured for the Tuesday morning. By early Monday afternoon the screams of pain were getting the Captain and Chief Cook down, and the dentist’s receptionist suggested visiting immediately. By the time the dentist had taken an X-Ray, the pain was wearing off; he could find nothing untoward, and suggested it might be a sinus related issue. Having shuttled in agony between doctor and dentist several times with a similar problem some decade or two ago, raising two fingers to the medical establishment the chief cook’s emergency supply of antibiotics was raided, and no further problems occurred.

Skirting Nuneaton without ever really seeing it, and turning off Coventry Canal onto the North Oxford Canal at what is variously known as Hawkesbury Junction, Sutton Stop or The Greyhound, the journey home continued without much drama, decent weather or anything else of note. Sutton Stop was quiet, unlike the first time down this way, and for some reason no photos – midsummer and busy – were posted last time. Such an oversight will be rectified in due course, particularly as we suspect we’ll be heading back this way in the spring.

The North Oxford canal itself is quite pleasant cruising, apart from the fact that the edges are (a) shallow and (b) rock infested, so finding suitable mooring without needing a gangplank is problematical. Rugby was similarly skirted, and the “dual-carriageway” Hillmorton Locks negotiated without problems. By Friday lunchtime we’d reached the outskirts of Braunston, and were pleased to see that a pair of peregrine falcons were still in residence on the church steeple.

Finding space in the prime mooring place (just above Napton bottom lock) on Friday evening, we rewarded ourselves with dinner at the splendidly quirky Folly pub, and a visit to the splendid Napton Post Office for coffee and fresh bread the next morning.

Crossing the winding summit of the South Oxford Canal is always pleasant, even though by now well familiar. Obligatory photos of the Napton water buffaloes were taken.

Napton Buffalos

Finally stopping for Sunday night just above Claydon Top Lock, one away from our final destination, we knew there had been problems earlier in the summer with the lock, but on Monday morning we weren’t sure whether to be appalled at the state of things or admire the ingenuity of the “temporary” repair. Armco would be proud!

Running RepairsRunning Repairs

And so, by Monday lunchtime our 2016 cruise had come to an end, and Song & Dance was safely tucked up in her winter quarters at Cropredy Marina, next to a boat called Catflap (which was a misnomer, as it didn’t have one).

With a car to fetch from home and a boat to pack up, we stayed overnight. We heard Sir exit his catflap early in the morning, presumably for a constitutional. Later, there was a very heavy and prolonged outbreak of rain, and when we got up, no sign of the boss. Despite calling him, he failed to appear. Sometime considerable time later, mid morning, walking to the marina office, a very wet and bedraggled cat emerged from under the recycling bins – some 100 yards from the boat – and moaned mightily. A lady in the office said she’d seen him under the bins about 7am, and was going to feed him if he was still there later. We don’t know if if fell in somewhere, or just got thoroughly drenched by the rain, but he had clearly failed to find his way home. Think we’ll need to send him on a marina orientation training course before next year.

Homeward Bound–Part the First

With everyone suitably repatriated onto the boat, we commenced a revisiting of our first year’s journey in Song & Dance, although with shortening and cooling days and largely indifferent weather, there was much less to write home about.

Tuesday night saw us mooring opposite the World of Wedgewood factory and visitor complex: the quartermaster’s first job was to tour the establishment stocking up on Christmas and Birthday presents of the bone china variety. As well as travelling this way on Song & Dance’s first proper cruise, we had been on this stretch of the Trent & Mersey canal many times before; Wednesday saw us tying up in Sir’s favourite spot just below the Star Inn at Stone bottom lock, and by Friday evening we’d reached Fradley Junction without any problems with the Captain disappearing. This success was celebrated by dinner in the well known pub The Swan (aka The Mucky Duck), which was surprisingly quiet.

Turning onto the Coventry Canal at Fradley on the Saturday morning, we stopped at Streethay Wharf for fuel: an interesting little spot with a novel approach to mooring boats: they’re randomly scattered over the cut up to three deep, and if there’s a queue for diesel…

Airstrip

Just beyond Streethay we moored up for lunch, then realised we were in the overun area of an airstrip we’d never noticed before, and kept our fingers crossed.

Staying on the Coventry Canal at Fazeley Junction, we stopped just short of Tamworth, and on Sunday morning stumbled on the Tamworth 10K Charity Run, which kept the towpath busy! They seemed to have a novel approach to stewarding.

Tamworth 10K RunTamworth 10K Run

Just  a bit further down, we wondered what this builder chap was doing filling his containers with canal water, when there was a perfectly good tap a few yards away at the lock.

Water Water Everywhere

The weather was by now so pleasant that we stopped for an al fresco Sunday lunch at the Samuel Barlow

Pub Lunch, The Samuel BarlowNeeds a wash & polish

Where's my lunch

… where Sir posed in the best place to ensure that everyone knew the boat needed a wash and polish, then demanded pudding. Fran and Biggles had stayed here for a couple of days on the first cruise, due to a funeral your scribe had to attend. Pub seems to have changed hands since then. Eventually, a post-prandial cruise saw us mooring up on the outskirts of Atherstone after a busy week.

Back to the Beginning

With a family Christening to attend at the weekend, the logistics of getting both of us down to Surrey for a weekend while looking after the Captain’s needs had proved too difficult. So we’d booked the boat into Festival Park Marina at Stoke-on-Trent for a few days, so that the chief cook could travel down by train, and the Captain and First Officer could spend the weekend in a male bonding session (a.k.a. as catching up with the laundry backlog). We’d also arranged for Piper Boats to come and look at some things, so it looked as though we could kill several birds with one stone, as they say. But we had to get there first.

Setting off on the Thursday morning, a pleasant cruise down the last bit of the Macclesfield Canal saw us re-joining the Trent and Mersey just north of the Harecastle Tunnel. The water turned a very odd colour…

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Just after launching Song & Dance we’d spend our first night aboard just south of the tunnel, but hadn’t ventured through. Actually, although interesting from an engineering point of view, the 40 minute transit is both somewhat tedious and  hard work, requiring considerable concentration. (And we’re not the only ones that think that).

Anyway, we ended up mooring for the night at Westport Lakes, a pleasant reminder that first night afloat on Song & Dance. A first time for the Captain though, who amused himself taunting the Canada Geese.

On Friday morning a short cruise down through Longport (where Song & Dance was first launched) and we were soon tucking ourselves into Festival Park Marina, a busy Black Prince Hire Fleet base, even at the end of the season. This was where the Captain first joined us, after our initial week’s proving cruise.

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Anyway, SWMBO was despatched South, Pipers’ people came and went, loads of washing got done, and after a very very wet Saturday, on Sunday the morning dawned bright clear and still.

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In fact, it was so nice, Sir decided to come out and pose…

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With baby Rufus’ head suitably wetted, the chief cook safely returned on the train, the nights drawing on and the end of the season rapidly approaching, we prepared to revisit our first proper cruise with the Captain aboard, and make the trek south back down the Trent & Mersey Canal, Coventry Canal and Oxford Canals to Song & Dance’s winter quarters at Cropredy Marina. We were going to be busy.

The Cheshire Cat-Part 2: Hard Man Biggles

Having eschewed the delights of Congleton (the town centre is quite some way from the canal), the chief cook decided that we needed some provisions before we hit the delights of Kidsgrove and Stoke on Trent, and suggested we stop at Henshall Bridge, as it was close to a farm shop she fancied checking out.

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It was a good spot to take a picture of a Macclesfield Canal bridge: they’re rather unusual in that instead of the walls dropping vertically from the widest part, they start curving back as though they completed a proper ellipse under the canal. This, coupled with wide towpaths under the bridges, make them appear wide and easy to navigate. Wrong! If anything they’re even more of a challenge than the narrow ones on the Stratford Canal earlier in the summer – there’s a small underwater ledge on the other side to catch you out too.

After lunch aboard, we got chatting to a couple of anglers. One of them remarked that it was nice to see a Piper Boat, and told us that he used to work for them some years ago. As was now his regular practice whenever we started gossiping on the towpath, the Captain came out to join us, sitting in the middle of the towpath. Getting bolder during his travels he’s become almost immune to passing dogs, even if we were a bit surprised how he stood his ground at Bollington.

We were even more surprised when four young whippets came bounding along, two attached to a young lady by leashes, two running loose, and he didn’t even bristle much. He just stood in the centre of the towpath and glared at them… and they slowly took a wide detour round him before carrying on their bouncing progress.

“Blimey” said the angler “that cat of yours is well hard, isn’t he…”

Anyway, after the demonstration of his evil eye, he sloped off and went for his afternoon nap while we headed off for Astbury and the farm shop, which proved even further from the canal than Congleton town centre. Must have words with the shopping planner. Actually, it wasn’t so much a farm shop as “tourist attraction” in its own right, with a petting zoo, café, several art and craft shops and a butcher, as well as selling produce from the farm.

After a lengthy examination of all the shops selling things you never knew you didn’t need, buying some food, and partaking of coffee and cake, the chief cook then announced that we would take a wander around Astbury, which proved a pleasant and picturesque village albeit with the A34 running down the other side.

Astbury ChurchAstbury Church

The church looked interesting, with its bell tower and steeple built off to one side, but it was all locked up so you’re spared any more pictures of ecclesiastical ceilings.

Astbury Church Yew TreeAstbury Church Yew Tree

The yew tree in the churchyard looked even older than the church, although the original trunk was looking a little too well ventilated to provide decent shelter from the elements.

AstburyAstbury Cottage

Madam was most taken with the cottage with the dormer windows, and there were several others that also caught her fancy.

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If you click on the above picture and look at the stone by the path, you can see that this gated passage isn’t just a way of getting to the back yard, it’s a public footpath to somewhere.

AstburyAstbury

Complete with a village green sporting a splendid oak tree to sit under, and a nice looking inn opposite the church, one can’t help suspecting the house prices in Astbury are steep even for Cheshire. Shame about the A34 though.

Anyway, by the time we’d done all this and walked back to the boat, it was too late to cruise on. Guess we’ll just have to open a bottle of something and stay the night.

The Cheshire Cat – Part 1: Biggles Keeps His Feet Dry

Wednesday morning, and with decidedly better weather Sir decided that we would explore the River Dane Aqueduct before setting off for Congleton and parts south. The aqueduct  – a listed building, it would appear – is pretty high, but not all that long. With CaRT’s outstanding policy on clearing towpath vegetation, you could cruise over it without even noticing it, as we had on the way up. Anyway, now moored just a few yards away, we decided to rectify our omission.

River Dane AqueductRiver Dane Aqueduct

Biggles was quite keen to explore.

River Dane AqueductRiver Dane Aqueduct

It really is quite high above the surrounding countryside, and we couldn’t spot any way down to view it from below without indulging in a significant cross-country expedition. Meanwhile, Biggles was as usual checking out bolt holes should he be beset upon by marauding dogs. Not sure he’d thought this one through, though: there was at least a 60ft drop just there.

River Dane AqueductTired after his exploration

After all that excitement, on return to the boat, Sir decided he would organise the rest of the day’s navigation as we set sail for Congleton.

Wharf near CongletonNear Congleton

It’s hard to believe that this old wharf/arm on the outskirts of Congleton used to be a major transport depot/interchange. And barely three minutes later one is sailing high above the kind of pad that you only ever see in the Country Life property porn pages.

Macclesfield Canal run offMacclesfield Canal run off

One minor oddity that caught our eye was this run-off/spill way. You often see places on the cut where lowered concrete banks allow excess water to safely spill over into a culvert or drain, or around a lock. They’re usually on the other side from the towpath, failing which there’s a bridge or metal grid or summat so that if there is any overflow, the towpath users are unaffected. Not here. Cheshire towpath users must be well hard.

Dour & Drizzly Does It

Monday morning and the weather was – how shall we put it? – rubbish. Our friend Tim, (another of the Sidmouth regulars) caught the bus out from Macclesfield, and arrived bearing gifts… some splendid Spearings’ pork pies. They’re a local speciality, quite unlike the normal jelly-filled ones, and quite delicious.

Setting off in the rain, we let Tim steer while we made coffee and so on, and apart from the weather had a pleasant morning’s run down to Macclesfield, where common sense dictated that we moor up at the pontoons just below the Puss in Boots and retire for a warming and protracted lunch. Heading off again, we soon dropped Tim off just below his house, and carried on for a while, finally giving up for the day near Woodhouse Green Narrows (which aren’t).

Unfortunately Tim was unable to join us on the Tuesday, which was a shame – an extra pair of hands would have made the 12 locks of the Bosley flight so much easier. Ah well. We had lunch just above the top lock, then girding our metaphorical loins, we cracked on and got down just before it was time to partake of some medicinal malt whisky – the evenings are definitely cooling down now.

The visitor moorings just below the bottom lock are delightful – there are some pictures here from our trip uphill. We moored just around the corner this time, right by the River Dane Aqueduct, and retired for a well-earned rest after such a tiring day.

Marple Redux & Bollington Bound

Leaving Disley on Saturday morning, we somehow contrived to get to Marple just about lunch time, so we had to go and sample the wares at the All Things Nice deli again. It’s a hard life. Then continuing on down the Macclesfield Canal, we cruised the – by now – familiar but delightful stretch down to Higher Poynton and Lord Vernon’s Wharf. There are several views across towards the Lyme Park estate where we had walked on Friday, The Cage folly in particular.

Another familiar sight was this apparently well known chappie, who we’d seen three times before (each time we’d passed through Marple junction) but failed to get a useable picture. We wanted to know what he was and who was his hairdresser.

Crested DuckCrested Duck

We’d speculated he was a (wild) domestic duck with some kind of genetic anomaly, but no, a Farcebook friend said it was definitely a Crested Duck. However, a quick Google shows that Crested Ducks are basically domestic ducks with a genetic mutation, so there you go.

Overnighting again in Poynton, a Sunday morning walk meant we only made it to Bollington before packing up and going round the Discovery Centre there. A lazy Sunday. Well, it would have been lazy, but we were expecting another visitor on Monday, so the cleaning department was scheduled for a tidy up. It’s all go with visitors this canal!

Fire Drills and Mr. Darcy

Leaving Bugsworth on Thursday morning, we’d intended to visit Whaley Bridge , the other “canal terminus”, for some provisions , but failed miserably: from the junction with the Bugsworth arm it was was wall-to-wall reserved long term moorings, and the few visitor moorings at the terminus/basin were all occupied. So a swift about turn, and quick visit to Tesco at the junction ensued. Much less interesting.

Retracing our steps we braved the warm Love Hearts blow dry at New Mills again, and fibally moored up on the outskirts of Disley. We’d arranged to meet our friends Mon & Phil again, and have another day of reminiscing while visiting Lyme Park, and that was as close as we could get to the entrance. They managed to find Song & Dance without any problems, and by car we were only 5 minutes or less from the entrance to what is a huge estate.

We decided to “do” the house first, and were particularly taken by some Grinling Gibbons woodwork, of which here are but two.

Grinling Gibbons panelGrinling Gibbons panel

In keeping with the unintended “splendid ceilings” theme this year, we were very taken by this one. The long gallery was equally impressive, even if the serried ranks of pictures were actually borrowed from the National Portrait Gallery.

DSCF5306Lyme Park Long Gallery

Lyme Park has a very fine clock collection, but while perusing it, the fire alarms went off: the volunteers had the evacuation so well organised, we can only surmise they were expecting a fire drill…

Lyme Park Fire Drill

Rather than go back indoors, we walked along the ridge to “The Cave” (which isn’t, it’s a folly). Great views all round: Welsh mountains, Cheshire Plain, Manchester, Peak District… you can see it from several points further down the Macclesfield Canal.

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Lyme Park: The Cave

There’s also a fine Italian Garden, best seem from above.

Lyme Park: Italian Garden

And of course, the ladies were all a-quiver walking around the lake, in the hope that Mr Darcy/Colin Firth would wade out without many clothes on.

Where's Mr Darcy?Where's Mr Darcy?

After all that excitement, we retired for an early supper at Sasso in Disley, where we had a truly excellent Italian meal, before returning to the boat only slightly guilty at having left the Captain on his own for so long. When we got back to the boat he was – as usual – asleep.

Biggles Goes to Bugsworth

Leaving Marple after lunch on Tuesday, we headed on up the Upper Peak Forest Canal, over 500 feet above sea level. It winds along the side of the Goyt Valley, with splendid views over the valley and the Peak District.

Going through New Mills is a surreal experience: as you approach the Wharf you pass alongside a factory building where all the vent fans seem to be canal-side. You go from being slightly cold to cruising in a very warm breeze, just like standing in a huge hairdryer. And it smells overpoweringly of sherbet. It’s where they make Love Hearts of fond memory.

Just before Whaley Bridge, the canal splits: straight on for Whaley Bridge, or left for Bugsworth Basin. We went left. The basin is an amazing place, a remarkable example of a restored industrial heritage sight; the whole basin is Scheduled Ancient Monument. Somewhat of a misnomer, Bugsworth Basin comprises several basins, and was the biggest inland port on the canal system in it’s day: it was a major interchange between the canal system and the Peak Forest Tramway bringing raw materials down from the High Peak, principally limestone. There were also lime kilns and all the trimmings.

Bugsworth Basin

Sir felt at home immediately, and went off to explore some of the ruined buildings without further ado.

Bugsworth BasinBugsworth Basin

The place is in a splendid setting, with the Peak District all around, and a decent pub right at the basin (incidentally once owned by the Coronation Street actress who played Dot Cotton).

Bugsworth BasinBugsworth Basin

It was such a lovely spot, and such a convenient height wharf, that we spent Wednesday washing and polishing one side of Song & Dance as well as exploring the site. It’s also clearly a very popular spot for boaters to hole up for a few days.

Bugsworth BasinBugsworth Basin

The only downside is the major road/dual carriageway that runs alongside the site. Still, at least they didn’t build the road over the basin… the road is a by-pass for Whaley Bridge and Buxworth – apparently the village renamed itself because they didn’t like “Bugsworth”.

The other minor snag is that you can’t turn the boat round except at the entrance – getting out can involve a significant reversing exercise in cramped conditions. There are times when a bow thruster is really useful.

Leaving on Thursday morning, just as we passed some cottages at the entrance, something small and brown flew across the cut and attached itself to the cottage wall. It didn’t fly quite like any LBJ that came to mind, and we thought it might even have been a large butterfly. On closer inspection by the Binocular Queen, it proved to be a bat. Quite what it was doing out and about in broad daylight, we weren’t sure. Anyhow, it stayed there until we were out of sight. Another little canal cruising mystery.