Category Archives: Wildlife

A Llangollen Afternoon

With the early-ish start from Froncysyllte, we’d actually made Llangollen in time for an afternoon wander, even though the 6 miles and no locks took three hours – slow going. The walk down to the town from the basin is full of interest…

Llangollen Wharf

The road descends steeply across the canal. You can carry on round some tight and steep bends, and end up on the main road at an amazing taxidermy workshop. Or you can drop down to Llangollen Wharf, where there’s ice cream, teas, and a chance to say hello to Taffy, who pulls the horse-drawn trip boat up to Horseshoe Falls. Then some steep steps down onto the same road.

Llangollen WharfTaffy

Either way you end up the station, and the bridge over the River Dee.

Llangollen StationLlangollen Station & River Dee

With steam engines running every day during the summer, and a cafe on the platform, the station’s a busy spot. It’s a lovely line, climbing up further into the mountains, and we’d had a lovely day trip some years previously. They’ve extended it a little further, but it was a bit late in the afternoon to investigate this – we’d have had to take the last train out and come straight back – so decided to maybe go on an expedition on Saturday.

Committee Meeting?5199Llangollen Station

The crew seemed to be having some kind of committee meeting over the couplings, but the train eventually departed.

More CeilingsRiver Dee

Walking along the river we noticed a family of young rats whizzing in and out of the rocks below the promenade railings. You’re never very far from a rat, but it’s not often you see them so boldly visible when lots of people are around.

As St. Collen’s church here is also noted for its carved ceiling and hammer beamed roof, we thought we’d better continue our exploration of such items even though we were now definitely in Wales. Then a wander back through town, spotting likely places for an evening meal off the boat. There are worse ways to spend a warm if dull Friday afternoon.

Ferret on a String

From the Duddlestone (Tuesday nights place of repose) to Ellesmere you pass through Whixall Moss, then the Shropshire Lake District. The former is a somewhat odd, if flat, landscape, thinly populated, with a few lift bridges, and largely designated as a Nature Reserve. The canal itself has long straight sections, and isn’t – of itself – very interesting. We’d originally intended to stop and follow one of the Nature Reserve guided walks, but suitable mooring spots are thin on the ground, and we ended up saving it for the return trip.

Further on, the canal skirts a series of lakes. The first one – Cole Mere – is supposedly a good spot for spotting the birds, but is set well below the canal, with a wooded hillside keeping guard. Mooring up for lunch, we wandered across the canal and down on to the mere’s perimeter path, but that was still well back from the water, and the trees prevented us seeing much of anything. Ah well.

Mind you, we did see one thing neither of us had seen before: someone taking their ferret for a walk on a lead. The ferret didn’t seem that keen: it was more a case of taking it for a drag. (Cue remarks about the old “pet rock” joke). Apparently it’s not that uncommon: we’re reliably informed that there was one at Sidmouth during Folk Week, and for many years one in Farnham. You can even get you ferret some fancy haut couture kit…

With provisions running short, we decided to abandon the proposed bird bothering walk, and try and make Ellesmere instead. After a pleasant hour’s cruise in improving sunshine, we turned into the Ellesmere Arm and – against all expectations – found the perfect spot half way down. The Captain likes the Ellesmere Arm: cricket club on one side, wide, busy but well behaved and sociable towpath so that dog walkers can be seen from afar, and a nice open wood/hedgerow bordering it, to explore and hide in.

Ellesmere Cricket ClubEllesmere Cricket Club

The staff like the Ellesmere Arm because as well as being an amenable spot to pass the night, it’s within trolley pushing/borrowing distance from a large supermarket, and five minutes walk to a pleasant market town High Street, with a decent selection of shops, restaurants and pubs to choose from.

That said, a restaurant we’d previously favoured, down in the cellars below a building in the main square, was now an oddball church. God works in mysterious ways.

Bad Boy Biggles Goes on a Bender

Pottering on further up the rural reaches of the Shropshire Union, we soon reached Norbury Junction, which like Saul Junction, isn’t any more. Once upon a time another part of the system descended 17 steep locks and went to Shrewsbury, but as the first lock is now a dry dock with a building over it, it’ll probably be a week or two before the restoration project is completed.

Norbury JunctionNorbury Junction

But with a pub and licensed cafe on the junction, and a small hire base, even on a cold and rainy Sunday lunchtime, the place was busy with boats and gongoozlers.

This stretch has several deep cuttings; after all the rain, they’re rather gloomy, dank and discouraging.

High Bridge, Grubb Street Cutting

Grubb Street cutting is renowned for the bridge with the telegraph pole in the middle; the pole is no longer in use, but we think they used to run telephone lines up the cutting.

Scene of the Crime

Emerging into more open countryside, we moored up and the sun came out for a rare excursion during the late evening.

Despite being unable to attend any meetings of Volestranglers Anonymous while we’ve been cruising, the Captain had been clean of catching rodents for a year or more; he’s been clean of birds for several years. So when he emerged from the bushes with a fledgling blackbird grasped tightly in his jaws, the chief cook was seriously unimpressed and upset. And he really, really didn’t want to let go…

Finally relieved of his burden, he rushed straight back out, and stared meaningfully at a section of hedgerow where there were sounds of other dismayed fledglings rustling around. We confined him to the brig for the rest of the evening, but he’d obviously got  the urge again. Sometime after midnight the cat flap flapped as he returned from his nightly constitutional, but this was not immediately followed by the usual sound of crunching from his food bowl. Expecting the worst, he was found on the saloon floor crouching as if disembowelling a small rodent like object, but the only evidence left was a small drop of blood on the floor… Well at least it wasn’t a fledgling.

Can’t think what’s got into him.

High Bridge, Woodseaves CuttingWoodseaves Cutting

Setting off on a rainy Monday morning we were soon ensconced in the clutches of Woodseaves Cutting. Two miles long, very deep and wet, and frequently too narrow to pass an oncoming boat, it was like a different world. Heavily wooded, dank and drippy, with strange things growing down off the branches, even the grass looked a strange colour: like some Salopian primordial jungle,

Emerging just before the top lock at Tyrley for lunch and a break in the rain, afterwards the flight of five were soon polished off despite a queue of boats coming up. They were the first locks for several days. We suspect a whole bunch of boats had been tied up at Market Drayton – not far from the bottom – waiting for the rain to stop, and they’d all left at once. Busiest we’ve seen things for a while.

Mooring at Market Drayton – nice buildings and town centre but obviously hard hit by the recession, with a bit of a down at heel atmosphere that had improved but a little since our last visit about five years ago – we prepared to head for the shops while dodging the rain.

But before we could leave, the Captain emerged from the long grass, jumped on the boat and proudly dropped a shrew at our feet (he doesn’t seem to eat those). Congratulating him for his kindness and forethought we disposed of the remains while he went ashore again and immediately returned with a mole. This was getting out of hand, and if he catches one of  Ratty’s mates we’ll be seriously upset!

On our return from tea, cakes and supermarket, we half expected to find a pile of corpses at the door, and were relieved to find Sir sleeping the sleep of the just-after without any need to call in CSI. But just to remind us that he was still capable, he went out mid evening for five minutes, and returned with another shrew. Really must find a branch of Volestranglers Anonymous quickly.

Kingfishers Are Off, Dear, and Not That Swindon

Setting off fairly early – for us – on Wednesday morning, we continued on up the canal in rather uninspiring weather. The early start made all the difference, and without any obvious effort, we managed 6 miles and 7 locks – long haul for us!

The first time we came down this part of the Staffordshire and Worcester Canal some years go, we saw loads of Kingfishers; in one sunny afternoon near Kinver we gave up counting after some 20+ sightings. This time they were obviously keeping their heads down, and we had seen nary a one from Stourport up.

After the exertions of the last two days, we tied up at Not That Swindon, a small canalside village with a couple of pubs, small convenience store, Thai restaurant and hairdresser. We decided that all things considered we deserved to eat out, and indeed the Thai food was extremely nice (and surprisingly cheap).

Bowing to pressure from the Captain,  the navigator also availed himself of the hairdresser, so he’s probably not going to regain his strength for a while…

Debris Dodging and Jumping Salmon

The chief cook needed to leave the boat and Biggles for a few days next week, and head for Essex (don’t ask…). The plan was to head up to Worcester via Tewkesbury and Upton-on-Severn over the next few days, moor up in a boatyard near Worcester station, and despatch her off. The bo’sun and skipper could then spend some quality time together catching up on the – by now – large backlog of laundry.

A phone call to the Upper Lode lockkeeper at Tewkesbury first thing on Thursday morning elicited the response that there were no problems as far as he could see, and he’d be expecting us. He said he didn’t know what the Gloucester lockkeeper was on about. So we waved farewell to Gloucester Docks, locked down onto the Severn rather more quickly  than  we’d locked up, and pointed Song & Dance uphill.

With miserable-ish weather, the only possible mooring for a pub lunch-stop full of other boats, not much to see, and a fairish flow on the river, it took what seemed an awfully long time to grind all the way up to Upper Lode. There were very few other boats about, and a lot of debris coming downstream: leaves, twigs, logs, branches, even most of a tree, so the helmsman/woman/cat had to concentrate all the way.

Another call to the Upper Lode lockie shortly before arrival had it all set up waiting for us, and once again it seemed a huge lock, just for a foot or so difference in level.

Then, as we crossed past the upper weir entrance towards the junction between the Severn and the Avon, a huge salmon leapt totally clear of the water. Twice. Quite a spectacle.

We locked up onto the Avon so the Skipper could meander round his favourite mooring spot, and Nic the Avon Lock lockkeeper said she once had a narrowboat arrive with a salmon stranded and expired on top of the cratch. The boaters were squeamish, but it was still nice and fresh, so Nic had it for her tea.

On The Naming of the Beast

Leaving the hulks behind on the Friday morning we were soon back at Slimbridge, and had a lovely day wandering around the various hides. We still felt there were parts to which we’d not done justice, so we had another wander on the Saturday. This time the FO took a camera, but even when fairly tame, getting decent photos of the critters isn’t always easy.

A pretty comprehensive guide as to what’s at Slimbridge can be found at this site, but here’s a few of our photos, in an attempt to make bird identification and nomenclature a little easier.

Redshank

This chap (or chapess) has orange-red legs. It’s called a Redshank.

Ruff (M)Ruff (F)

The female of this pair (the second photo) looks vaguely like a Redshank, but when the male gets excited he sprouts a large ruff of feathers around his neck…

Ruff (M)

The birds are called Ruffs.

White Faced Whistling Duck

This pretty little chap has a white face and whistles cheerily and continuously as he goes about his business. It’s called a White Faced Whistling Duck.

Indian Running Ducks

These ducks come from India, and run around upright in small gangs like they’re in the Olympics. They’re called Indian Running Ducks.

Bar Headed GooseBlack Winged Stilt

In a completely different vein, this goose has black bars on its head: it’s a Bar Headed Goose, while the tall chap with stilt like legs and black wings is called a Black Winged Stilt.

Black Headed Swan

In a staggering demonstration of lack of imagination, this bird is a Black Necked Swan.

Crested Screamer

And finally, a hard one. This sizeable bird has a notable crest, and is known for screaming so loudly it can be heard 2 miles away. Apparently it’s a Crested Screamer.

So that’s all clear, then.

Frampton-upon-Severn

The first officer uses a flight planning program to work out how long it takes to get anywhere, but we were progressing down the Gloucester & Sharpness canal much more quickly than expected. Subsequent investigation showed it was allowing 20 minutes for each swing bridge, when in fact the keeper usually had it open by the time Song & Dance reached it, causing no delay whatsoever.

Frampton-upon-Severn looked interesting: a small linear village strung out along the “largest village green in the country”, with a swing bridge and moorings at each end, but the towpath on the side away from the village. Having failed to find anywhere suitable at the first bridge, and fearing for our chances at the other end, halfway down we came across a sneaky little clearing on the village side that looked ideal: someone else was there before us, and it appeared to have footpath access to the village through the fields. And so it proved.

Frampton SwansFrampton Swans

We were immediately visited by a swan family demanding food with menaces. The ducks kept a safe distance.

Frampton SwansFrampton Mooring

The Captain made his views on the chief cook’s priorities quite plain.

Path to FramptonPath to Frampton

And there was a delightful path through the woods and fields to the village.

Frampton-upon-SevernFrampton-upon-Severn

The village green was indeed large, and there were some interesting and varied styles of houses.

Frampton-upon-SevernA Rose by any Other Name

Frampton-upon-SevernFrampton-upon-Severn

We were slightly puzzled by this lychgate on the side of a large field rather than a churchyard, but subsequently discovered that there was a church at the far end of the path, out of sight, several hundred yards away.

Frampton-upon-Severn

And wandering back after a bite to eat, the chief bird spotter spotted a linnet, which made her day.

Standing at the Crossroads

After the delights of a Gloucester Monday morning and lunch, the Captain decided he wanted to get out of town for somewhere more rural, so later that afternoon we cast off for pastures new.

The Gloucester & Sharpness canal is unusual: once one that too significant commercial shipping, it is wide and almost river-like in feel, but the sides are normally piled, and there’s a towpath, and you can moor up rather more freely. There are no locks, but loads of low swing bridges, each of which – at the moment – is manned by a bridge-keeper. But there’s mutterings about automation…

Once out of the industrial bit we found a pleasant spot for the night, and were rewarded by a sunny Tuesday morning.

G&S CanalG&S Canal

Setting off late morning, we passed this abandoned barge, complete with resident swan on the nest, and were soon mooring up at Saul Junction for lunch.

G&S Canal: Abandoned Barge

Saul Junction is a unique spot on the British canals: it’s the only place were two canals cross at a genuine “crossroads”. The Stroudwater Canal starts in Stroud (where it joins the Thames & Severn Canal), and crosses the G&S at Saul just before dropping down to the River Severn. The Canal & River Trust are talking about restoring the lock just visible in the second photo, because it will look pretty, although entirely useless to boaters: restoring any further is a bit pointless as no one in their right minds would nowadays want to go down onto the tidal Severn there.

G&S Canal: Saul JunctionG&S Canal: Saul Junction

Meanwhile, the Cotswold Canal Trust are trying to restore the Stroudwater Canal and make it navigable to Stroud initially (currently only about half a mile is navigable), and eventually restore the Thames & Severn all the way to Lechlade-on-Thames. That would make a huge difference to boating in the South West, but will probably only take a couple of centuries to achieve… We won’t hold our breath!

Saul BoatyardSaul Boatyard

You don’t often see RNLI lifeboats on a canal, or seemingly top-heavy pirate ships either. Don’t know what either was doing there, but with access for big boats at Sharpness, the boatyard here clearly had more than narrowboats and tupperware jobs to manage.

Just a-walking the dog...

First time we’ve seen anyone actually taking a dog for a swim…

Saul SwanSaul Swan

And walking back to the boat after lunch we were delayed by a tow-path hog who was disinclined to let anyone pass.

An Abbey a Day…

Making a mental note to check why the River Avon has so many abbeys close together (Evesham, Pershore, Tewkesbury): an Abbey a Day keeps something at bay. And whether you’re deeply religious, an atheist, or a even a committed Pastafarian, there’s  something undeniably awe inspiring about these old religious sites and buildings from Stonehenge and Callanish onwards, and the faith of the people who built them without the aid of modern day cranes and cherry pickers.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey fledgeling

Well surrounded, it’s not altogether easy to get a decent outside shot of the Abbey, although the fledgling blackbird (taken from the same spot) clearly had an unusual “bird’s eye view”.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey

The vaulted and decorated ceilings are quite astonishing, as is the stained glass.

Tewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury AbbeyTewkesbury Abbey: Running Repairs

And the almost filigree stone work on some of the tombs and side chapels does make you wonder, even if it clearly needs a lot of attention. The one on the left is apparently the grave of Edward II (the king, not the folk/reggae/rock band that our mate Simon played in).

School Runs, Storms, Strensham, and Summer White-Outs

When we woke up on the (nice and sunny) Monday morning, the Eckington Quay/Bridge car park next to Song & Dance was empty, but not for long. A car pulled up – early morning dog-walker, we assumed. But no, a young-ish man got out, accompanied by two young boys smartly dressed in school uniform. Out came a folding table and chairs which were duly unfolded, followed by provisions for a picnic breakfast. They ate and happily chattered away in what sounded like a Eastern European language for half an hour, before fairly rapdily packing everything up and heading off. A whole new slant on the school run!

Earlier in the trip we’d noticed just how much wildlife there was in the hedgerows, presumably due to the mild and wet winter. Another benefactor seemed to be dandelions, which seemed to be rampant – we’d never seen so many covering the fields by the canals and river. And with the warmer weather and a significant breeze, the seeds were coming off the dandelion clocks in such numbers that several times it was like boating in a snow storm. Again.

Flood WarningUnknown Yellow Flower

Setting off for Strensham Lock, and yet another attempt at actually getting around Bredon and Bredon Hill, we soon came across a reminder that the Avon is not always so docile.

Another plant we’d noticed was a yellow flowered jobbie that we originally thought might have been escaped rape, but after a day or two decided it wasn’t the right colour. The banks of the Avon were covered with it: any suggestions as to what it is will receive the customary award.

Strensham LockAnd as for Strensham Lock… the top gate and paddles leaked so much that we actually had significant waves in the lock. Song & Dance isn’t exactly seaworthy, and by the time we exited the lock we were feeling decidedly seasick.