Category Archives: General

From Woodford to Washlands

Saturday morning, after rainy and windy night, and no smoky smell from the apparent conflagration, but we needed to be off. The housekeeper had decided that doing some laundry was creeping up the “To Do” list, and one of us needed to pop home briefly to collect the mail and do some other chores, so we’d tentatively arranged to hole up in Northampton Marina on Tuesday and Wednesday. The flight plan program said we were still several days away at our usual rate of progress, so opting for the easy way, we’d pretty much decided to retrace our steps via mooring places we’d already used. Almost immediately we came across a flotilla of paddle-boarders led by the lady we’d bumped into the night before… we told her that the fly-posting had been in vain, as her poster hadn’t survived the miserable overnight weather.

Working our way steadily up stream, lock by lock, taking turn and turn about, we managed to get tied up to the bank satisfactorily above Ditchford Lock, where we’d stopped on the way down. Increasingly of the opinion that it was about time Biggles did his share of windlass winding, Sunday went much the same way, and we had the Friends of the River Nene bit of bank near to the Water-Ski Park to ourselves.

Water Ski park

This time there were people falling in the water, and jumping on the trampolines, even though cold and miserable. We did, however briefly, get a splendid autumnal sky.

Autumnal skyAutumnal sky

In some places, the river was quite high after the overnight rains, and at least one of the locks didn’t really need top paddles… just a bit of patience!

High water level

Given the rather uninspiring weather, we’d pressed on and at one point thought we might make Northampton by Monday evening, but as the afternoon dwindled away it became wetter and windier. Faced with strong crosswinds and waves on the wide stretch of water with the delightfully romantic name “Northampton Washlands flood storage reservoir” we opted to moor up for the night before the “sea” passage. There are flood gates at each end which close automatically when things get sticky, presumably to avoid flooding Northampton.

Washlands mooringWashlands mooring

The moorings are not just floating pontoons, they clearly expect significant changes in water level around here! And only available until the end of September, so we kept out fingers crossed that we’d be OK overnight, despite the weather. The Captain wasn’t terribly amused at having to walk a long way uphill on a walkway to reach fresh ground, either.

Invisible Boundaries, Hedgehogs, London Buses and a Conflagration

Friday morning dawned clear and still, so with some reluctance we dragged ourselves away from Wadenhoe, back over that stretch of the Nene heading for Northampton where we were somewhat challenged to find moorings suitable for Sir to access the whole wide world outside.

Still Morning, WadenhoeStill Morning, Wadenhoe

We stopped for shopping and lunch at Thrapston, squeezing into the visitor moorings which are in a sheltered by-water (read almost inaccessible) just by Nine Arch Bridge. Going in nose first and breasting up on Bones (not the one owned by Oxford Canal blogger, magazine columnist and DIY disaster area Mortimer Bones, who we’d spotted earlier this year) left the problem of extraction to later.

Nine Arch Bridge, ThrapstonNine Arch Bridge, Thrapston

We didn’t manage to find the exact boundary where the River Neen becomes the River Nen, but a charming café courtyard did have Fran hankering to try on another clog-dancer’s hat.

Clog Dancer Hats again

Even in virtually nil wind and not much current, extraction of Song & Dance  from the moorings – manoeuvring backwards out through the two 90° bends to get back onto the river proper – was a complete fiasco. Why can’t we have a proper Captain to take control when things get tough? Anyway, after several close encounters of the wrong-arch kind, and several more of the buttress kind, large amounts of swearing, and a several reminders of why rubbing strakes are called rubbing strakes, we were on our way. Good job we’d only had coffee for lunch, not Guinness or rocket fuel cider.

We decided to lick our wounds at Woodford, where we we’d found decent moorings and a cheap pub for dinner before, courtesy of the Friends of the River Nene.

On our way back from said dinner, the chief cook was walking over to a cat she’d nearly been unfaithful with on the previous visit, when we were nearly run down by a hedgehog scurrying down the centre of the road. Seemed quite unfazed by the cat, and vice versa  and stopped for a mutter before deciding we hadn’t any food or drink to hand.  Then, a hundred yards or so down the road, we came across another one, albeit a little shyer than the first. Don’t see a hedgehog for five years, then two come along together…

Walking in the pitch dark through the field down to the boat, we stumbled over a young lady fly-posting the Friends of the River Nene billboard, as you do. Seems she runs a paddle-board school, and they were having their annual party/BBQ/whatever at the weekend. Strange time to be wandering around in the dark woods putting up posters, though.

Then, while chatting, we spotted – about a mile or two across the river – what looked like a bonfire or something flare up. Looked like a seriously out of control conflagration: big hay rick or something worse. We couldn’t imagine that no-one had spotted it already, but just in case, our new friend made some phone calls to likely farmers. Anyway, there soon appeared to arrive some brightly lit vehicles – it was quite a way away – and in fairly short order the flames seemed to die down.

Wonder what will happen tomorrow…

Sundials and British Summer Time

After all the photo-shoot excitement and a medicinal Guinness, another wander round Wadenhoe village seemed appropriate. Wadenhoe itself is a positively delightful estate village rising up from the River Nene.

Wadenhoe ChurchJubilee Sundial

Wadenhoe Village from the churchWadenhoe Graveyard

River Nene from Wadenhoe ChurchWadenhoe Church

Unusually, the church is rather away from the village, up on a hill with superb views over the local area. It also sports a Jubilee sundial showing the correct time (in Universal Time of course), two Green Men and this rather glum chap. The sundial also points to the other five Northampton churches visible from that spot.

Wadenhoe CottagesClog Morris Dancer?

Getting carried away by the sunshine, lovely cottages, Green Men and Guinness, the chief cook came dangerously close to morphing into a Northern Clog Morris person but was saved by her refusal to forgo her nice new comfy deck shoes.

Wadenhoe MillDSCF3268

Wadenhoe MillWadenhoe Mill Ford

At the other end of the village from the church, there’s a rather fine mill and accompanying buildings, and the vehicular access (as opposed to pedestrian access) to the field and Nene Way path was the longest ford we’ve seen.

BST SundialAlpaca, Wadenhoe

Not sure what the lonely Alpaca was doing (maybe there’s a song title there somewhere), but the splendidly converted old barn not only had lots of plants for sale, but a sundial strangely set to British Summer Time.

But hey, who’s arguing? 16:00L or 15:00Z, the barn also did splendid cream teas with bilberry scones, and naughty cakes too. Result!

Sunshine and Deck Shoes

Sunshine might have been promised, and a chill-out day planned, but an very autumnal misty moisty morning started the day. We didn’t meet a man all clothed in leather, but we did find one with a nice line in leather shoes.

Misty Moisty Morning

The sun soon came out as promised, and Sir went exploring until the dogs showed up.

Biggles explores the pub gardenKing's Head Mooring

River Nene at Wadenhoe

The first officer was busy mixing up some paint to do some much needed touching up when a chap came up and said “We’re doing a photo-shoot  of some deck shoes for our catalogue and web site: could we use the back of your boat?” We said “Sure”, made them a cup of coffee and let them get on with it.

PhotoshootPhotoshoot

After shooting on and around the back deck they departed saying “Ta everso” and left us each with a very nice pair of smart leather deck shoes each (that would appear to retail at about £60 a pop). Shame they didn’t have two pairs to fit the Captain…

Egrets, Training Wheels and a Dovecot

Following the excellent lunch with friends on Monday, we were rather taken by the Kings Arms at Wadenhoe and their moorings, so we’d planned on staying there overnight and partaking of dinner. It’s not a  fancy gastropub with prices to match: it’s just a beautifully situated village pub with large splendid gardens running down to the River Nene, that does home cooked pub food really really well. No fanfares… you could easily walk past the front door and miss it entirely.

Wednesday morning dawned a somewhat overcast, so leaving Fotheringhay wasn’t too much of a wrench.

Despite muttering earlier that we hadn’t seen many little egrets, we soon came across a pair of them… having some kind of punch-up. Then we came across some rowers that seemed to have toddler training wheels on their boats. Another new experience!

Training wheels on a boat?Training wheels on a boat?

On arrival, we established that we were welcome to stay on the pub moorings for a couple of nights, and given that the forecast for Thursday was hot and sunny, resolved to have a chill-out day and explore Wadenhoe properly rather than just rush around before dinner.

Wadenhoe DovecoteWadenhoe Dovecote

Wadenhoe DovecoteWadenhoe

However, wanting some peace and quiet himself, the Captain chucked us out for a short pre-prandial walk, where we stumbled on an old C19 dovecot, complete with built-in rotating ladder for servicing the roosts.

At Last: A Wander Round Oundle

Having cruised round and round Oundle on the way out to Ely without ever visiting it, after the quick drive through yesterday we decided we really ought to visit it properly. A prompt departure from Fotheringhay saw us mooring up in the field near (whisper it gently) Waitrose for a wander into town and lunch before relocating once again to those nice moorings by Ashton Lock.

A pleasant market town, utterly dominated by the school and its students. Co-educational, they seem to have solved the “how short a skirt can I get away with wearing” issue by having all the ladies wear baggy pinstripe long trousers: a very distinctive look.

The weather was a bit dull, but a few piccies… somehow managing to miss any of the myriad students rushing from class to class.

Oundle

OundleOundle

DSCF3216Hidden courtyard

Talbot Hotel, OundleOundle

Pavlov’s Cygnets and Boatpeckers

We’d made Fotheringhay by Monday 7th, and some dear friends who we hadn’t seen since they relocated from the Isle of Mull to Northamptonshire managed to find the boat. After an critical inspection and n introduction to Sir, they whisked us off to The King’s Head, Wadenhoe which is also on the river, but a day or more further upstream. After an excellent lunch and catch up, an inspection of the pub’s moorings, a lightning whizz round Oundle’s Waitrose (so that’s what Oundle looks like!), and tea and buns at our friends new home, we arrived back at the boat having had a busier day than we had had for many weeks.

Pavlov's CygnetsPavlov's Cygnets 

Swimming grandly past were parent swan and three teenagers. The second we opened the side hatch the youngsters executed a smart right turn and paddled up to the hatch ready to be fed. Close the hatch… off they swim. Open it again… swift about turn and back to the boat. Talk about a Pavlovian response!

And if the birds that peck wood to wake up insects and provide sustenance are called Woodpeckers, why aren’t these ugly ducklings called Boatpeckers? It’s not uncommon to be woken up by these chaps pecking away on the boat by the hatch, then demanding food with menaces.

Here’s a tip chaps/chapesses: when the hatch opens and a lady is present, try to avoid hissing and looking dangerous!

Mary, Richard and a Maypole

Fotheringhay Castle was where Mary Queen of Scots was executed. Depending on which plaque you believe, Richard III was either born in Fotheringhay Castle or Fotheringhay Church. Maybe the church was once part of the castle.

Fotheringhay ChurchFotheringhay ChurchFotheringhay Church

Sitting proud, tall and vertical on a rise, when you go inside it seems rather smaller than one was expecting… then you see the model that shows it used to be twice as long, and much more in proportion – there was a parish church and a collegiate church on the end, and the latter is no more.

Painted Pulpit, Fotheringhay ChurchYork Chapel, Fotheringhay ChurchFotheringhay Church: Maypole

There’s a very impressive C15 painted pulpit, a small chapel devoted to the York dynasty, and a maypole.

Can’t ever recall seeing a maypole inside a church before.

Floating to Fotheringhay

The loose plan to meet up with some friends on Monday looked like coming to fruition: they lived a couple of miles from Fotheringhay where there are plentiful moorings, even if the farmer is PDQ in coming to collect a mooring fee. So, bidding farewell to the steam trains, we pottered on up river, through some lovely countryside.

Approaching Fotheringhay

Perched on a small hill, Fotheringhay church stands proud above the landscape, even if it doesn’t quite do the “Ship of the Fens” bit that Ely Cathedral does.

View from Castle MoundView from Castle Mound

View from Castle Mound

We moored right under the rabbit hole and badger sett riddled mound that is all that remains of Fotheringhay Castle, even though it was an important place in English and Scottish history. Having been largely demolished in 1630, it isn’t much to look at, but there are splendid views from the top, although the Captain ran out of puff halfway up.

Diesel and Steam: Peterborough and Back

The chief trainspotter/cook had decided that we would take the last trip of the day on The Nene Valley Railway, stay the night, then watch the first Sunday departure, which was supposed to be steam hauled. Who were the Captain and I to argue? Pictures were taken.

NVR Rail CarEngine Driver Fran

It's in here somewhere...15:30 to PeterboroughPeep Peep

Chief TrainspotterSong & Dance still there!

Steaming offIncoming...

Tornado, a newly built steam engine was there for a day or so, and supposed to be operating one of the Sunday trips before heading to Scotland, but there were rumours it was unwell. Must be something doing the rounds.

Tornado blowing off steamNVR sheds

Tornado still blowing steamSaddletank to PeterboroughSaddletank to Peterborough